BSComp

I went the Para/RIA route too and am trying to sell them now to fund an open 9 major purchase. There is a reason not to many people shot RIA/Para for what we do

there are a lot of resources out there if you would do a google search for uspsa stage design and other variations of such. that's what I did/do when nothing comes to mind or I want to break it up a little

Being a left shooter and having my mag releases setup for a righty. I love ing able to hit the mag release with my stong side middle finger. I don't have to shift my grip to do it, there is a lot of strength in the mddle finger to have a positive mag release, and it is near impossible to have your finger on the tringger while changing a mag this way. Just a thouhgt for you righties to shift your mag buttons to the "lefty" side.

Steve, Thanks for the comment on that. I have / use your R&R drills weekly. I came up with this one as a way to bring things together and to break up the monotony of dryfire. I usually will do the subcomponents of this drill (draw, sight picture, mag change) and then end my practice sesson with this one. BTW, Refinement & Repitition is a great book. IMHO it is worth 10 x's more than all the money I have spent on getting better equipment to help me shoot better over the years.

~Mag Change Dryfire Drill Variation~ I use Predator Tactical's Timer for this drill. The link is below. http://www.predatortactical.com/uploads/media/Flashfiles/drawbeepSlider082504.swf 1) On "Shooter Ready" - Be Ready: UN-loaded and holstered 2) On "Stnady By" - Draw and continuously engage targets repeatedly. I like to use three or more targets. 3) on "BEEP" - Perform mag change and engage a new target. I find that this is a more realistic drill when it comes to mag changes. Try it out, let us know how it works for you.

~Mag Change Dryfire Drill Variation~ I use Predator Tactical's Timer for this drill. The link is below. http://www.predatortactical.com/uploads/media/Flashfiles/drawbeepSlider082504.swf 1) On "Shooter Ready" - Be Ready: UN-loaded and holstered 2) On "Stnady By" - Draw and continuously engage targets repeatedly. I like to use three or more. 3) on "BEEP" - Perform mag change and engage a new target. I find that this is a more realistic drill when it comes to mag changes. Try it out, let us know how it works for you.

I know this is going to sound weird/strange. But, as a kid I would put my ceiling fan in my room on slow and focus on one specific blade while lying on my bed. I got good at that then I would move it up to the medium speed and focus on a single fan blade again. I got pretty good at it and could focus on a single blade going round and round without losing the blade or the blade getting blurry. What I found is that if done right, it forces my eyes and brain to focus on a specific spot, like a fan blade (or a front sight). For me, its dryfire for my eyes/brain. I now do it from time to time as a mental exercise to see if I still have it. Like I said, I know it sounds weird, but it really helps me train my eyes to focus intensely. ~Brian

I had a similar issue with a G23 gen4. It was the guide rod assembly. The last coil came off the lip that should capture it. Replaced it and have had no issues since.

There are a lot of threads on here about this. (http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3148) I can just tell you that I have run MO Bullet lead for about a year now through my G35 & G23 bbls. I have no issues. I think that I don't have any issues because I run a bore snake and lead remover with a bore brush after a match or a practice session (few hundred rounds or so). It is possible to run into problems if you don't clean your bbl and lead starts building up inside the bbl. Because of the perceived lead issue with glock bbls, I too went the LW bbl route. I found the chamber to tight for reliable loading/cycling just like others. But at the same time, if you are shooting 'glocked' brass through a non glock bbl, you will always have issues. there are many solutions to this, i.e. Lee Bulge Buster, Redding Gr-X, etc.... Bottom line: run a clean bbl, don't let lead build up inside the bbl.

Please share with us where are you getting the liquid lanolin from? ~Brian

Jim, As far as magwells, I found that the combination of the ZEV Tech (aka GlockWorx) and the Taylor Freelance extension work perfectly together with no modifications needed. I run four of them and have had no prob. Also, the magwell from ZEV can be purchased in different weights depending on the size/weight of the brass plug. Just to second everyone else on here that has said to get a magwell. Just look at it like this, try putting oil in your car without a funnel very very fast without making a mess. Point being, putting a mag in very very fast is a part of the game, and a magwell is your funnel. Magwell = Advantage. I also run a DOH. I like it, I've trained with it, I'm fast with it. The other day at the range, an open buddy of mine and I were squaring of on draw to first shot on steel and he is running a CR Speed while I was running my DOH. The times were 1.2 - 1.4 and I was beating him by .1 or we were tying. My point is that it is not necessarily what you use, it is what you use to become extremely proficient. Whether you make something or buy something, DRY FIRE DRY FIRE DRY FIRE. What I have found to be the best book for dry fire practice drills is Steve Anderson's 'Refinement and Repetition: Dry Fire Drills for Dramatic Improvement'. It's for sale here on Enos's Store. A MUST BUY. (By the way my name is not Steve Anderson, I have just used it, did what he said, and I dry fire on a consistent weekly schedule. Since your going to be shooting factory loads and not reloading. I think it's important to always use the same exact ammo and tune your recoil spring to the load. What I mean by that is that you don't want your front sight to dive when the slide goes back in battery (this means you have too heavy of a recoil spring). On the other side you don't want to light a spring because you will start having reliability issues. The best way to find this out, is to have a buddy go to the range with you and stand off your shoulder a few yards and watch the front sight as you shoot one shot about every second or so. Don't shoot to slow where you have time to purposefully correct the issue and not to fast that your buddy cant see whats going on. ~Brian

HP Jack, I've heard about the 135s for .40, who makes 'em?

Mitch, what's the difference in Montana Gold's CMJs and Xtreme's Plated CMJs. I thought Montana Golds were plated? Yes, I am using a KKM bbl

Back Ground Info: I am new(er) to open and am building an open glock in .40. I have shot glocks for several years and am familiar with the platform and am very comfortable with it. I started reloading earlier this year and basically have always used lead from missouri bullet, and sometimes I would use xtreme cmj(rnfp). I figure not to use lead because of the inherent build up in the comp. I checked out precision bullets, and their FAQ's page says not to use in open. So I am guessing that would apply to all molly projectiles. I have seen on the board that some guys are also using xtreme cmj. But it is not consistent across the board. Do you have to use jhp or at least jacketed to run through a comp? I see a lot of open shooters using jhp projectiles, WHY? So, no molly, no lead, which leaves me with either jacketed or cmj, and hollow point or round nose flat point. SO, WHICH ONE IS THE QUESTION? I want to use the 'right' projectile, or at least not the wrong one. I like xtremes and I see a benefit to using a cmj projectile since it seems to me that it would minimize comp crud. I understand that I want a light projectile with a slow burning powder, and the lightest xtreme has is a 155gr in .40. Is that light enough? or should I look somewhere else. Problem: what is the proper or recommended projectile to use in open? Or at least what are guys using that has worked consistently for you? (jacketed round nose flat point, jacketed hollow point, round nose flat point complete metal jacket, hollow point complete metal jacket?) IN RESPONSE TO THIS THREAD, PLEASE STATE WHAT YOUR ANSWER WAS TO THE POLL. THANKS.

As a fellow lefty who is new to open and without a holster as of yet. I am shooting a G22 set up as a full race gun. I used a DOH in limited for my G35. Why did you decided to go with the ghost instead of the DAA race master left hand? Thanks for any pointers, I don't want to have a drawer full of holsters, just to find the right one.

I'm pretty sure someone just put one up for sale on the board

I want to build the open glock to get into shooting open. That I will then turn into my backup after buying/building an STI/SV. I shoot a g35 in limited now and know not to use it to build an open gun (cycle rate)

I am looking to build an open 9 major Glock, and am looking to use a Timberwolf frame from Lone Wolf Dist instead of a Glock frame. I should tell you that I have built Glocks before from spare parts but not an open gun. So my question is, what are the pro/cons, what should I be careful of, is it a bad idea from the get go?