mahamoti

Thanks for your reply! My belt setup is definitely not set in stone... this was only my second match with it, so I'm still seeing what works. I think I will take some cant out of them, and try it that way. Is that club's match this weekend? It's about the same drive for me to go there or to Southern Shooting Center on the first Sunday; I'll have to try both clubs out at some point.

The more I watch this, the more I realize I need to back off the ports. I waste tons of time getting in and out of those.

Thanks for the reply. I've got a few weeks before my next match... my only goal is to get so many mag change reps in that they're visibly better after the buzzer goes off.

The Apex Reset Assist (RAM) is really nice, if you're going to do the AEK, do the RAM as well. You could also do a Speed Shooter Specialties Tungsten guiderod, to add a little more weight out front and help with muzzle rise.

For production, I actually found it beneficial to overlap the inner belt on the holster side, to push the holster out just that extra bit further.

At typical USPSA distances, I can't see the barrel mattering enough to justify the cost. You'll get a better return on your money with good sights and an Apex AEK and RAM. Also note that if you're planning to stay in production, you can do the AEK and RAM, but not the full FSS trigger swap.

I did fine starting out with just 4 mags. If you're new to the sport, bring what you've got, you'll be focused on more important things like safety anyway. Once you've got a few matches under your belt, you'll progress to thinking about things like optimizing mag changes during movement, at which point you may want at least a 5th magazine, and maybe more.

Just wanted to add my thanks to this thread... I was watching a match vid from last weekend, picking out the things *I* could tell needed work, and wondering, "Even if I fix those, what am I missing? I'm still nowhere near the fast guys." This not only gave me a few more things to look for, but also helped me understand how important each one is! Thanks again.

I'm a little late to this thread, but it intrigues me, as I have a really hard time keeping both my eyes open, as well. You said something here I've never heard said before. The mantra is always, "focus on the front sight." But you're saying focus on the target, until you bring the sights into view, then switch focus to the front sight? How's the work for follow-up shots or transitions to secondary targets? I'll have to try some practice reps like this.

Thanks for the reply. I'm definitely going to focus on draw/dryfire/reload practice between now and my next match.

This is my 3rd month of shooting USPSA. Really trying to tighten up enough to make C by the end of the summer. I think overall this looks a little better than the previous week's match I had recorded. My reloads are still horrid... looking at my belt and dropping the pistol down to chest height. Needs more dryfire practice. Stage 2 I could have planned better. Stage 4 had a FTF, due to a mag having more dirt in it than ammo. Nice anticipation flinch! I thought I had gotten rid of that. My immediate action drill was... unconventional, heh. I did place first in Production D, not that that's a huge achievement. My classifier missed C class by like half a %.

Hit factor is your points scored divided by your time... higher is better, obviously. The percentage is what percentage of the top shooter's score you had. So if 1st place scored 600pts, and you had 300, you get 50%. If you and your son didn't DQ, had a good time, and learned a few things to practice to get better the next time... I'd definitely agree you "won" your first match

EAPS is great, spanky really makes his stages challenging. Thanks for the replies, all!

I'll give that a try as a last resort, thanks!

I can't visualize what you are describing. Trigger snags the thumb safety? Striker block? The "catch", for lack of a better word, on the back of the trigger safety... the part that stops the trigger from moving further to the rear, is engaging the frame on a normal trigger pull, because the resistance from the spring in the trigger safety is greater than the resistance in the trigger spring. Does that make more sense? I have this setup in a full size 9mm. The trigger spring is a little lighter than I would like also. Mine works OK on the firing stroke but the trigger seems to lag my finger on reset. I would field strip the gun, leave the sear in the up position with the wire thingy, remove the trigger spring and check for friction in the trigger movement. It seems that either the trigger safety spring is stiffer than average or you have some excessive friction in the trigger which combined with the trigger safety spring overcomes the light trigger spring. Or you could do the easy thing and call Apex and speak to Flork. David E. The trigger seems pretty free to swing on its pin with the spring disengaged. Either the safety spring is a little stiff (this is a brand new pistol, maybe it'll break in), or it's possible it's just how my finger engages the trigger. If the latter is the case, I'd rather have a slightly heavier trigger pull than change my grip up. Once I get it tested out, if I just can't bear to have that extra pull weight, I'll talk to Apex... as it stands, this is already the lightest trigger of any striker-fired pistol I've owned, and it feels much better than stock. Definitely no complaints about the AEK as a whole.

Thanks for the replies... I think I'll put in the comp striker spring, and put the stock trigger spring back in for now. I'm sure I could file a tiny bit off the safety stop on the trigger, but that just seems... like a bad idea.

Just getting started shooting USPSA Production in Louisiana. Hope to see you at TPS or EAPS!

Just recently picked up a 9L to set up for USPSA Production: Apex Comp AEK and RAM, SSS tungsten guide rod, Truglo TFO sights. A couple of questions: I'm currently only shooting factory ammo, either WWB or Federal red box. I didn't install the comp striker spring, afraid of light strikes. Can anyone confirm that's not a problem with factory ammo? After installing the rest of the AEK internals, the trigger is so light now that the trigger pull weight is lighter than the weight of the spring in the trigger safety. The trigger snags on the safety catch just enough for it to be noticeable in the pull. I'm thinking of putting the stock trigger spring back in, because I can't think of another way around it. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance for any help!