DoubleL

Doesn't the Cajun trigger pin come with the slave pin for installation? I'm waiting for mine to show up but I guess I got lucky with the original style pin, I re-assembled it and it went together fine. I would never leave it this way because the flare is all jacked up on one side, but I was honestly a little hesitant to pull it because it looks terribly hard to get together without that slave pin. After doing it once without the slave pin, man forget that noise, Cajun part with the slave pin sounds like it will be way better! What is average round count on the factory trigger return spring before breakage? Would replacement at every 5K be overkill?

Insane-o transition speed in that Jerrett video. You can see how his stance rotates from below the picture. His head/shoulders/gun positioning is rock solid! The practice that must have taken to achieve!! Thanks for posting that!

I've never heard of needing springs in both mag types to get them to function in the same gun. You may have an issue somewhere else. My factory 19'ers feel weak but they work, and the Mec-Gar AFC 17'ers have never let me down so far with original spring.

Nice looking pistol OG, makes me wish I had another on the way. Sweet case too! I didnt get one of those with mine

Nice one Jukez. Slick looking pistol. Even looks tight. Pic thread FTW

Nice one oldfrank. I like the look with the blacked out trigger. What grips are those?

Careful with the overlap on your belt length. Too much will wreck your whole setup. Just check twice. The pouches look alright. I shoot production and run 5 pouches. Not very often when I'm going for that last one, but it does happen. For 40$ a pop you can shop though, that price covers all but one of the pouches out there. I was recommended these and so far I am very happy with them. http://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/Ghost-360-Pouch-P2282.aspx

Honestly your fingers don't look crooked. Maybe it's just that I'm comparing them to mine, but they don't look crooked at all to me. I've never broken my trigger finger, and it won't touch the palm when I curl it in, lefty will but not my dominant right. My hands are not even close to symmetrical either. I say practice to get rid of pushing shots to the left. Of course I'm sure you've got a ball peen hammer somewhere right? Call that plan 'B'. Youchy!!

The Czingle Cztack. Ah yes one can dream.... I don't know if I'd dream of something as small as the Kahr, but hey more CZs of any type would be nice!

This is an excellent thread. I think most people, especially men with hobbies, could really learn a thing or two reading this thread. My 2 cents... To me, you sound like almost every guy I know. Well at least the ones that actually do stuff and have hobbies because many don't. Unbelievable right? I have found that taking breaks, if you want to call it that, can help you see your hobby from a new perspective. Let's face it, many have stated that if only I could do such and such I would be a GM.... If that's really an accurate description of they way you feel, in your heart, about shooting then I have bad news for you brotha. You will be just as unhappy at GM as you are at low C. Take the break. It ain't the boogeyman. If you walk away from shooting and truly don't miss it.... Why come back??? Be true to yourself man! If you hate it then drop it and pursue the hobby you truly desire and that will bring you happiness. If I started to see shooting as a stress ball of madness in my life or felt that it was keeping me from other things I like, my guns would hit the safe for a while. No way would I let any one of my hobbies ruin all my other hobbies!! I'm just being honest with myself, sounds like maybe you could benefit from doing the same. I came to realize that I like the stress relief that shooting offers me more than the gratification of placing well. Whatever you choose, if you choose honestly it will work out just fine.

Removing it sounds like a horrible idea to me. Not only would it clearly disbar me from production division but it would also quite possibly make me a star someday. My own YouTube Classic titled omg I just shot myself doesn't sound too fun though. YMMV! I'm pretty sure the striker was damaged by striking debris in the channel other than the plunger. The little hole that debris/water can flow out of the channel through was clogged entirely. Maybe this hole has a name I don't know for sure, it's in the underside of the slide directly behind the breach face on the opposite side of ejection port directly under the striker tip right before it protrudes from the breach face. I am assuming it is a path for crap that gets in to find its way out of the channel? Keep in mind this part is 25 years old...

This gun had the liner, it was severely worn. Uh maybe I'm missing something, but isn't that liner sort of important? I mean I guess it isn't if yours works without it??? Any Certified GA's here like to chime in on that? Seems like the spring cup/spring/striker assembly would just wallow like weenie down a hallway without that liner? This gun began light striking after I changed the spring to reduced power and installed the ghost rocket. If you look closely you can see a gnarly gash in the machined edge/corner of the striker. I had never seen a new striker so didn't quickly notice that it shouldn't be like that. Also you can see the wear on the tip, it has a fairly pronounced round profile. The trigger feels phenomenal on this gun now, 25 years of use really smooths things out! I couldn't believe the change in break after I tuned the ghost rocket. The plunger/striker safety is wonderfully smooth and quite literally floats in it's hole. Added stainless guide rod and 15lb spring plus new trigger spring and new depressor spring and since then this pistol is 100% on WWB, federal red box and Aguila124. Going to test some Reman from a local-ish place here soon.

So far I like the Zev striker. Check this out. Gun was bought, by my father, in 1989 or 1990 I can't remember at the moment which year, this striker was in there the whole time. The 25 year old striker!! I swapped springs and noticed it was all chewed up. Tough little part to survive that long. Gun was used fairly regularly.

Sarge gives you good advice. It's all ammo when you come down to it. Match, spec, factory, reman whatever you want to call it, it really boils down to what components were used to make said ammo. That plastic channel liner plays a crucial part of the firing process. If you've forgotten about it, it's most likely worn. Out of round or maybe it's wiggling around in the channel is not good. I think also the spacer that the striker sits in is equally important, if the hole the striker sits in is wobbled out even a small amount the striker can wobble around in there too. Not good! The spring cups wear also, I mean all this stuff is just plastic, doesn't take wear like metal pieces will. The less drag you can get in that channel the better, it allows the striker to fly home with as much force as possible, this is the idea behind the use of the maritime spring cups instead of the OEM ones. Less rubbing FWIW, I am using the GlockWorx/Zev v4 SS extended and lightened striker with a reduced spring, 100% so far on a couple different brands of factory ammo.

There are lots of threads about light strikes here, just got to dig a little to find em My own experience has been that the reduced power striker spring=light strikes on factory ammo if used with a stock striker. One thing you don't see posted about very much is that a certain setup in one Glock may not work well at all in another, even same model same gen etc. One area that can cause problems, and did for me, is the plastic channel liner. That's got to be über clean. No oil at all. I swab the striker channel with alcohol and make sure it's dry and clean. Also, if you pull it out you're supposed to toss it and use a new one. Those plastic parts wear, they are cheap, so replace them and keep them fresh. My setup right now on a gen2 G17 has overcome the light strike issues and is 100% since my last change, but it is still evolving. I have one or two more options to explore until I settle on what I want the trigger to feel like for good.

I don't know about faster... But chicks dig em!

I like the red ones too, even if my buddies say I have a blingy blaster. I bought them from CzCustom when I bought the pistol.

Common tip for this given at my club is to always keep the gun up, at or near neck level and in your vision/peripheral vision at all times. As soon as you start to let the gun dip, bad things can happen like sweeping yourself and 180 busting while rounding a corner. I am a big fan of giving yourself verbal reminders also. Before you move just say it out loud, doesn't have to be a he-man scream but just say it. Finger. Berm. Run. Eventually it will just be run.

These guns are awesome. Wish I owned more than one. Many many many more

Is the CGW "perfect" firing pin a must have? I see they have a special retaining pin for it too. I have yet to shoot wolf/Tula. I've been feeding the Shadow WWB, Aguila124gr and reman ammo for awhile now with no issues. Seems like the gun will run on anything.

Thanks for the size on the screws guys. I am thinking of trying out some parts from CGW. They seem to have pretty stellar reviews from just about everyone here, and that goes a long way. I guess for 7$ if I don't like the reset I can always keep the reduced TRS as a backup spare part. But I may just wait until my birthday right around the corner, take a little drive and drop the pistol off at CzCustom. Do the SRT and a comp hammer and tune. Decisions decisions.

Good advice I pulled out the mainspring and checked exactly what you mentioned. Even added a touch more glide to the strut that goes through the spring. Checked plug too. All looked good. But know what I did find??? The locking washer for one of my grip panels is missing. I pulled one grip and manipulated the hammer and I'd swear that the spring was rubbing against one of the screws ever so lightly. Then I pull the second grip panel and voila it's missing the lock washer too! The first side, left, seemed to have a small amount more clearance, the right however was tight, that screw definitely was rubbing the spring. When cocking by hand I could feel some rubbing going on with just the one screw in. It rubs right at the very last bit of travel on the DA stroke..... So anybody care to share the size of those little grip screws. I see a trip to my local Ace in my future. Also, does the Shadow come with a standard trigger return spring or a reduced one? I'm thinking of swapping it. Good idea or bad?

I had no idea that the hammers were so different. The change is more than what I expected I guess. Thanks for the pics. So each safety has to be fit to the hammer that it's paired with? Or I guess if you have a standard and then switch to a race hammer the safety would need a little tune up? As a total cz noob, thanks for the pics showing the difference in hammer profiles, makes it easy to learn a bit about these awesome pistols.

I've been tuning a g17 gen2 for my father lately. It's a learning experience for sure, the glock is such a strange little mechanical wonder, so simple yet so complex at the same time. We just tried a stainless captured recoil rod and reduced recoil spring assembly paired with a reduced striker spring and SS Zev v4 striker. First thing pops noticed was the change in how the gun tracked through recoil. We tried various ammo and with the stock springs the difference between 115 and 124 was not very large. Now with the reduced setup the difference is VERY noticeable. I don't own a 35 but sounds like you could benefit from maybe a different bullet weight vs. recoil weight combo?