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Retread1911

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Posts posted by Retread1911

  1. Running the swage rod increases resistance ever so slightly but if you run virgin brass or once fired, non crimped brass, you really don't need the swager. I run all sorts of brass thru my machine so I always have it in place.

    ME TOOO!!!!!!! I love my swager and run it all the time even when I am confident I have a batch of brass that was loaded by my and run through my gun.

    Retread.

  2. I was successful at finding some good tubes off a WTB on this board. The guy I bought them from had a few more then I needed.

    Send me a PM if you are interested in bare tubes and I will hook you guys up.

    Retreat

  3. No. That's just cracked corn.

    You need corn cob. If you don't have a local source for the 40-50 lb bags of walnut or corn cob you can go to Walmart and buy corn cob and the local pet store to get crushed walnut. It's called lizard litter.

    Eventually you will want to buy in bulk just like everything else pertaining to this sport. Grainger sells it as blast media or you can go to drillspot.com or to a local sandblasting supply store for walnut. I bought a 50lb bag of each two years ago and have used a little over half of it.

    Purchased corn cob from drillspot.com 40lb bag 20/40, fine, will not get stuck in flash hole.

    Get this, was going to order from Grainger got to the check out and seen the $20 shipping, so I back out, then read this post about drillspot.com. Went to their site placed the order, I noticed the part number matched Graingers. Got the shipment today and it was sent right from Grainger. Price was $32.90 shipped from drillspot and Grainger wanted $34.90 plus shipping, was going to be almost $60 to get it here.

    Drillspot.com is place to get it.

    I had the exact same experience a couple weeks back when I ordered my second bag. My box still had the grainier sticker on it.

    Drillspot ROCKS.

  4. I love crimped brass. :::grin::: but then again I load on a 1050 and swage everything every time.

    The super Swage 600 will do you very well.

    If you do not want the hassle and there is lots of this crimped brass left behind get 1000 or so together and I will process it 2 for 1 for you. All you need to do is separate the brass into 2 equal bags and send it to me. I will process one of the bags and send it back. Each of us paying shipping on our side. That leaves me with 1/2 the brass for my trouble and you get half of it ready to load for yours. PM if interested.

    Retread

  5. Ishootguns. Are you sure about that serendipity mount? I have seen lots of ejection problems with them over the more open STI style with a slide ride cmore on top.

    I run a Brazos 90 on my STI Trubor and have no issues. Judging by the picture you are a smith that can deal with the issues but do you really want too?

    Just food for thoroughly while you have the opportunity to make a cheap change.

  6. I am a huge fan of the Berrys MFG tumbler. While it will only do the 500 45's and no more they are under 70$ delivered and with a 3 year warrenty on the motor you can buy three of them for the cost of the big dillon and do more rounds with more flexibility and a longer warrenty.

    Just my experience.

    GT.

  7. I bought my used RL1050 in 1995 for 1500$ so you got a VERY Good deal.

    I just added a Hornady bullet feeder to my RL 1050. I had to add a couple 2x2 to get the feeder up high enough to work correctly but once it was mounted it works GREAT! for ~300$ it cannot be beat.

    The other item you will want to consider assuming you have both sets of priming mechanizms is more tool heads. The change over from one caliber to another becomes so much faster and easier when you have the tool heads. Note You will need the RL ratches and likely a new powder backup rod on your first upgrade.

  8. Thanks for all of the input. I was able to fix the case feed issue by tighting up the shell plate some more, as I said I am a very experianced 650 user so I was use to having the shell plate on the looser side. As for the tearing of the necks, it still does it, and I am moving VERY slow way slower than I do with my 650's. I think everyone is on to the Alignment pin issue. I have removed my prime system and that may contribute to the head twisting, but my set up is for Lp and I am processing 223 (Sp) so i do not want to damage the primer pocket (guess it would be fine if it was the other way around), still need to order a Sp setup from Brian. The head does seem to have a bunch of sloop when it is at it's uppermost position (the entire shaft and bellcrank assy as well. I think Tom has the anwser, create a smooth transitional radius on the back up rod.

    So there is another thing that this post brings up for me. When you tighten the bolt for the head to the main shaft if the head is in the up position it can move it slightly out of alignment forcing the alignment pins to slightly move the head to get final alignment in every stroke. This happens about where it will nick the case lip on a 223.

    I would suggest loosening the main shaft nut just a 1/2 turn then running the head all the way down. Once down tighten the nut again. This will ensure that the shaft and the head are in alignment when tightened. This is also the procedure suggested by dillon although I do not recall the reason Dillon gave in the Manuel. Perhaps they will respond here, if not I would recommend calling them. I process 223 at about 900-1000 pieces per hour with a shorter stroke then the Super.

  9. When I first bought my 1050 (Same case feeder) The previous owner had been running 9mm with a large case feed plate and had put duct tape on it to try to keep the jams down. This not only didn't work but git tape gue all over everything. I bought the small case feed plate immediately and how have Large Small pistol and Small rifle.

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