Retread1911
-
Posts
464 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by Retread1911
-
-
If you want to try some roll sized brass send me a PM and I will get you a sample. That is assuming you do not want to order a U-die which may correct the problem as well if it really is the brass.
Retread
So my question on that, would I just skip the sizing die? How does the brass get deprimmed, can I back the die out far enough to deprime but not change the shape of the brass?
Have looked around, quite difficult to find reloading parts right now.... Surprise, surprise... I will ultimately want to purchase a sizing die, I have good access to once fired 9mm...
I am using the http://www.casepro100.com/ to roll size my 9mm. It sizes the base of the case as well as sizing the rim of the case. It does not replace the sizing die or the swage.
If you are interested to see the result toss me a PM and we can work out a sample for shipping cost unless you happened to be in the Twin Cities in which case we can just meet and I can hand you some. The case pro is an impressive machine.
If you decide to get completely processed brass then you would either run a universal decapping die or back off your sizing I'd just a bit to ensure a clear flash hole but not size the brass.
-
If you want to try some roll sized brass send me a PM and I will get you a sample. That is assuming you do not want to order a U-die which may correct the problem as well if it really is the brass.
What kind of internals are you running in your mag? I wonder if the spring isn't strong enough to feed rounds reliably?
I run a stock 170 in my STI factory open gun. The lower end one for the life of me I cannot remember the name tonight. Never had any feeding issues but then again I roll size all my brass before loading.
Retread
-
I ordered parts today. Rebuild will wait till the season is over.
Good news. Hold time was under 45 minutes and they had everything I wanted in stock.
Including 223 decapping pins. YEAH
-
It's an easy fix. Maybe a couple of hours to tear down and put back together. You'll probably spend that much time figuring out how to pack it up and dropping it off at UPS/FedEx.
Agreed. I am sure that sending it back will net a perfectly working machine and may even reveal a part I am not aware of being worn out. But I need to crank out 40 for the IPSC season and that will delay me sending it back.
-
I am with you in the buried in work part. I didn't even get time to call them today it is still on the list for tomorrow.
The press is still in good shape overall. Just old; this particular one was manufactured in the late 80's.
With the shooting season upon us I think I will wait order the part and wait until the end of the season for the rebuild.
-
Hey gang. My main shaft in my old RL 1050 broke today while I was processing 223 brass. The question I have is should I go ahead and send the the machine in for rebuild or just order the main shaft?
Thanks for the advice
Retread
-
Modified Uzi mags will work in the Colt and Rock River lowers.
Any ideas on where I can find the details on the modifications?
I have several modified UZI mags for 9mm upper. Only mod needed is to cut the mag catch with an end mill. Specs can be taken off your colt mag and or fitted to your upper.
If you want a pic of mine I can snap one for you just PM me an email address and I will send it over.
-
I had the same problem. The problem for me was the case insert was too far up. I do not have the part number but it needed the rod coming from the top of the press turned lowered.
After I adjusted that rod so the brass was not snapping into station one the powder stopped jumping out of my cases.
Let me know if this doesn't make sense and I will break out the manual.
-
On top of the U-die you can roll size the 9mm brass before loading. Of course if you are buying factory remanufactured then the challenge changes.
-
I placed an order for a case of 180 grain 40's when I first saw this post and received the shipped email yesterday. Way less than 2 weeks but I don't remember specifically how much less.
I figure even if my new SVI limited gun doesn't like them I will be able to turn them quickly.
-
I use corrosion X in addition to some slide glide.
I love the corps soon prevention of this product and it is very thin and slick to boot.
-
I would start with replacing the springs.
Honestly you shouldn't have too on such a new machine but stranger things have happened.
Any binding on the bottom? I am thinking the press washer might need a little cleaning and or grease/oil. If you oil it do it very sparingly.
-
I bulk process lots of 223 cases and I can confirm without a case gauge you will meet be able to get the dies set correctly. At least not easily.
I like to set them just under the minimum mark so they chamber easily in all my ARs.
-
Sort brass by brand.
Should that be before the case prep? ie, will the various brands require different care in the prep phase or the loading phase?
I bulk process lots of 223 and yes if you want the next level of accuracy for a specific rifle then sort by headstamp before processing and you will get more consistency. I have noticed about a 1 thousandth more consistent trim length when headstamps are separated.
If you are loading lots of rounds for several different guns then I doubt you will ever be able to tell the difference.
-
One thing I recommend for multiple gun loading is sizing at the low end of the case gauge for your shoulder length.
That way your ammo will have a better chance of chambering in all the guns.
If you own all the guns then find the tightest chamber and size your brass to that gun.
Shouldn't have to get too much below the bottom range on the dillon gauge.
Cheers.
-
A picture is worth a 1000 words in this case.
I know this is an easy one but I will ask any way. Is the large A mover on the rifle side? There is a pistol and a rifle side and if you try to load Rifle with the pistol side it will seem to hit early. I don't have the part number with me currently but let me me know if this doesn't make sense and I will get back to my manual shortly.
-
Another for a case feeder. I eventually added the bullet feeder and don't use it all the time even after bolting it to the bench.
I cannot imagine reloading without a case feeder.
-
Retread--don't read too much into that, some one is yanking your chain because you are running 178pf. I kind of wonder why also, but it's your gun and your game.
Absolutely my game. The question is does 8 Pf make the gun just a little harder to control? Sure does it make 1/10 a second difference over a course of fire? Maybe. I would like to drop the PF a little and see if things get easier. Just me.
-
I run a 180 with win 231 in 40 makes 170 pf consistently out of my p16.
180 gr lead flat point projectile
4.9 gr win 231
1.125 OAL
WSP
Range brass.
If I remember correctly this makes 175-178 often at the chrono. I am planning to back it down a little this shooting season to see if I can help speed up my second shots.
Start lower and chrono.
Does it shoot flat?
Hmmm. Honestly I am not sure how 'flat' it shoots. Not very is my guess.
90+% of all the shots in USPSA are under 50 yards and in those distances I hit point of aim. I am now fascinated by the question if you can wait until this cold snaps I will do some POA POI testing.
-
So what caliber are you starting with and how many quick change heads are you going to order?
-
I think that 95% of lowers are the same. When you find one do a quick google search and see what people are saying. I would buy anyone you can find at the moment.
I would agree with that. Availability is the key in today's market.
-
I run a 180 with win 231 in 40 makes 170 pf consistently out of my p16.
180 gr lead flat point projectile
4.9 gr win 231
1.125 OAL
WSP
Range brass.
If I remember correctly this makes 175-178 often at the chrono. I am planning to back it down a little this shooting season to see if I can help speed up my second shots.
Start lower and chrono.
-
I would disagree. Some of the manufactures are more careful then others on being completely square with all the holes.
There is a question of the rear shelf. Some like a low self to accept the rubber tighting plug and some prefer the higher self.
The upper tighting Allen screw is more of non-mil spec lower but some Mfgs still call theirs mil spec with them in it.
All that being said the majority out there are pretty close in and with a set of non rotating pins the trigger hole squareness issue is negated.
-
Ok well that is a very different conversation. The real questions are around calibers then.
Q: what do you shoot the most? Start there and buy conversions.
You will,need the primer conversion for the one you do not choose so order that up front. IE if you order a Super in 9mm then buy the large primer conversion.
Quick changes are really about the amount of time between setups you are willing to put up with. If you can stand an entire day of setup between calibers then no reason to buy more than one tool head. If you are like me then the more the better. I want to be able to swap calibers in as little time as possible and still crank out the best round possible. That means dillon dies and dedicated tool heads.
Cheers
Retread
Open gun that shoots both major and minor loads
in Open Pistols
Posted
I run an STI Trubor in 9mm with both 170 pf major loads and 135 of minor loads with only a change of the recoil spring.
Not sure if mine has the newer comp or not as I got a screaming good deal on it used a couple years back.
Good luck.