g56

I am just getting into reloading 223 for the AR-15, and I've been doing quite a bit of reading on it, one thing that has been quite noticeable is that for a 1:9 twist the max weight bullet has been about 69 grs, I've seen posts on various boards where the guys had great results up to 69 grs, anything over 70 grs the groups went south. The 75 gr bullets would probably be a good choice in a 1:8 twist barrel. The 75 gr might work great in your rifle, you don't know till you try, but don't be surprised if you see similar results to those I have mentioned. I built a AR-15A2 a few months ago, now the black rifle bug has bit and I'm wanting to build a AR-15 varmint! Great link Erik!

I figured I would load a dummy to test for push back, if that isn't the problem I'll go with 5.0 gr of 231 at Ranier's recommended OAL of 1.265, and try them in both of my 1911's, the old AMT and the Kimber. This was really bugging me, I've been loading for over 35 years, I generally go for midrange loads, and I had never had a problem like that before.

I'll try the push test and see what happens.

The OAL is the only variable that would seem to fit, I adjusted that load several times, and it was always hot, I hadn't had that problem occur before, nor after that lot. I took the same cases, the same primers, the same OAL, the same powder but the load raised from 4.6 gr to 5.0, the only change was a different bullet, the National Bullet copperized 200 gr SWC worked fine. I went back to the 5.0 gr of 231 behind a lead SWC, that was the load I used before I got the Ranier, and the load I went back to when I ran out, well...I had a few left, but not enough to load a box of ammo. I intend to load those last few using the current info from Ranier, I think the adjustment of the OAL should take care of the problem, if it does I can put Ranier bullets back on my "OK" list.

I believe a plated bullet should be treated the same as a jacketed bullet, cast bullet reloading info isn't applicable. There is one available that splits the difference, I have used National Bullets copperized bullets, they aren't the same as a plated or jacketed bullet, it's closer to a cast bullet, it still has a lube band, but no leading at reasonable velocity and I couldn't detect any smoke at an indoor range, so it's a pretty good choice, I like it.

I think it was probably an OAL problem, I don't have any of those (loaded rounds) left over but I measured my current loading, I haven't changed the bullet seating die so the OAL would be the same, I'm coming up with 1.248 OAL. I hadn't changed the OAL because the AMT Government Model that I had was so picky on what it would feed, I had finally found a length that would feed most of the time on that pistol. I still have the AMT but I also have a Kimber Custom Target, it feeds everything I throw at it, it's a much nicer pistol to shoot! Checking Ranier's website they tested at an OAL of 1.265, that information wasn't available to me at the time those were loaded. That gives me something to try, I still have 25 of those left, so I'm going to load those up using the OAL listed on Ranier's website to see what happens. Thanks for the help, that had been bugging me for a long time!

I see other people using the Ranier bullets with good results, and it makes me really curious what might cause this problem, so I thought I would call on this pool of knowledge to see if anyone might be able to diagnose this problem for me. I bought a carton of Ranier plated 200 gr SWC for 45 acp, the recommended starting load listed in the Speer #12 was 5.6 gr of 231, so I loaded up a small quantity and took them to the range. Upon firing I looked at the fired cases and observed very obvious over pressure signs, the sharp crisp lettering on the cartridge case head was substantially flattened, the primers varied from being flattened and some were blown right out of the primer pockets, the pockets were expanded to the point the cases wouldn't even hold a primer. Since the load showed such extreme over pressure signs I broke the loads down and lowered the powder charge to 5 grains of 231, firing gave essentially the same results as before, I kept going down to 4.6 gr of 231, they still looked a bit hot, but at least they weren't blowing the primers out of some of them. I shot the balance of those bullets at the lighter 4.6 gr load, but I do have a few bullets left over, they are the Double struck bullets, and I have checked the diameter and they are the correct .451, the same measurement as other brands of jacketed bullets, so they weren't oversize. The load listed in Speer #12 for 200 gr SWC and WW 231 powder starts at 5.6 gr and runs up to 6.3 gr. I am currently using the National Bullet 200 gr copperized SWC, loaded with 5 gr of 231 and that makes a real nice load. The pistol being used at that time was an AMT Government Model 1911.

Interesting, I didn't know they had used blued steel powder bars at one time. My older powder bars appear to have no coating at all, the new one is a different color, kind of a dull gray, I guess that's the coating.

If I'm cleaning deprimed brass, I always check the flash holes because media can get lodged in there, on brass that still has the fired primer in place, I don't worry because depriming will remove any obstruction.

I assume we're talking about the Dillon powder measure, the powder bar is aluminum, I've got 3 of them ranging from almost 20 yrs old to brand new, they are all the same.

I just got a 1,000 9mm JHP bullets from Roze, great price and fast service! 3 days from order to delivery! When you order 1,000 or more bullets the shipping is included, that made their prices better than anyone else I looked at, and these bullets didn't have the exposed lead on the base, that's a nice plus IMHO. Roze Distributing

When you shoot a lighter bullet, it impacts the target lower than a heavier bullet, the theory is the lighter bullet causes less muzzle rise, therefore impacts lower on the target. I'm not sure what, if any effect, the compensator would cause. Back in the 80's when I was a Deputy Sheriff everybody was using .357 magnums, the hot bullet became the 125 gr JHP, on my S&W model 66 at 25 yards the 125 gr bullets impacted the target substantially lower than the 158 gr JHP's we had been using, I almost ran out of travel on the rear sight, compensating for the lower impact point of the lighter bullet!

My 2 cents, it's worth what you paid for it. Each batch is tested....by who? The major manufacturers put a lot of care into their product, we can reasonably expect their product to be what they say it is, but this great unknown entity.... a mistake from this anonymous person could result in you destroying a firearm, or personal injury, or lose your eyesight. So my personal opinion is: I wouldn't touch it with a 10 ft pole!

Pineola is a metal polish, see link below: Pineola Copper and Brass Polish From the description it sounds a lot like the liquid Flitz that I use.

Kitty litter is usually dessicated clay, it's real good for soaking up oil stains in your garage, worthless for cleaning brass. IMHO cleaning brass with dirt is a bad idea.

LOL!!!! Dropped primers would be a problem on carpet, spilled powder would be a huge issue on carpet. IMHO a reloading room should have a smooth floor that is easily swept up.

I also use 231 in my 45 ACP loads, with no noticeable smoke on an indoor range. When I shoot my PPC match 38 with lead wadcutters and 231 I get a lot of smoke, jacketed bullets and 231 yield no noticeable smoke. More than likely the smoke you are getting is from the bullet lube, not the powder.

I wasn't aware of that! I recently bought some, by luck I got the right one, thank goodness!

I am just getting into reloading 223/5.56, to get started I ordered a case of IMI 5.56mm M193 ammo, as I shoot this up I process the brass when I get home, clean, decap, and swage the primer pocket to remove crimp. Measuring this IMI brass, a large percentage is right at, to over the max length, so I have started trimming all the brass so it will be a uniform length. That might sound like a lot of work, but I do it as it's getting shot up, so I don't have a lot to do at any one time. I am currently using the RCBS swager that I got many years ago, one of these days I'll break down and get the Dillon, all the reports I have heard on the Dillon Super Swage have been excellent.

How about that!

Order it from Brian Enos! Brian Enos-Dillon Products

Just be sure to get one with a magnetic gasket and not a latch like the old ones. The magnetic gasket models wouldn't let pressure build up in a fire, the older models with a latch could possibly build up enough pressure to be dangerous, in any case, most local governments have laws requiring the removal of refrigerator and freezer latches for child safety reasons. I have 25 years experience in the appliance industry, probably the biggest obstacle to an old refrigerator is getting rid of the smell, frankly...old refrigerators stink! You might be able to clean it out real good, and then load it down with baking soda to help get rid of the odors.

Acetic acid is vinegar, I wouldn't get too worried about it.

I was kind of curious about that, the old instructions had the warning, but that was before they had the rod on the powder measure. I guess the later models having the rod don't need the warning anymore.

Since H110 was mentioned, my old instructions for the Dillon powder measure warned against using H110 and WW 296 as they could cause binding of the powder bar, that's not mentioned in the current instructions.