kcobean

Was that a reference suggesting they have not required an exorcism to get them running correctly? I am assuming "issues" and auto correct, but I could be wrong. I didn't fully appreciate the process of reinstalling the Aftec until I had internal lightening done on my last gun. The old stick it in clocked 180 degrees left and rotate works, but you have to rotate clockwise. Counter clockwise is no good once you've milled out pockets next to the disconnector tunnel., unless you like losing springs and doing it over. LOL...The 2011 I just bought is lightened the same way and came with an Aftec. Sproing!

Yeah, I pull the firing pin at every cleaning anyway (extractor only every 5th or so), so it shouldn't be an issue. If fouling causes any problems over the course of a match, I'll address it with Shay.

I run a webserver and would be happy to host for downloads if someone can get me a copy of it.

Ugh. Well, let us know how it turns out.

Mine was exactly the same way. It's much more likely that the rear sight base was over-trimmed when it was fitted than it is it is that the slide cut was too deep or wide. If it's a well-known smith, I'm sure they'll make it right.

Yup, me too! On the phone, Shay was like "yeah, so? It's fine." The complete lack of concern over this from him in particular is a pretty good indicator that it should be a non-issue.

I tapped the ears on the right side piece that lock into the left side piece with a small hammer to pinch the ears together just a bit. Now they provide some retention to the left side and it eliminated any slop between the two pieces Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just got off the phone with Shay. He says this is no big deal and suggests I just run it like it sits. Now that I've removed all the material from where that wall between the FP tunnel and the trough had "caved in" and impeded the FP, the pin runs completely free, so I guess we'll see. I don't know that I'm thrilled with that answer, but that's what it is for now.

Well, I guess we're going to find out what Akai customer service is like. The original purchaser of the gun is an acquaintance of mine. It's only 5 months old. The gun has less than a thousand rounds through it at this point. I hope they'll make this right.

Think it's fixable, or am I facing slide replacement? And to be sure "someone" would be Akai. The gun is only 5 months old.

I just had this same issue fixed in one of my 2011's. Rear sight was over-machined and would wiggle just a bit in the dovetail. A good local smith replaced the sight for me and the new one is tight as a frogs butt. I'd definitely get the builder to fix it, as a little wobble in that rear sight will mean inches at the target and take my word for it, you won't get that set screw to stay tight without loc-tite and even then it's iffy unless you use the red stuff, which I wouldn't do because you stand an excellent chance of stripping that screw.

That's what I was thinking. I sent a note to Shay to see if he'll look at these pictures and give me some feedback.

I got some pretty good pictures of this so y'all can see what I'm talking about. My first custom gun, but I've never seen anything like this before:

The things you learn as you go..... When the slide was internally lightened, the channel on the under-side of the slide to the left of the firing pin tunnel was machined out far enough that it exposed the FP tunnel. Hard to describe it, but I'll see if I can get a photo. Anyway, that "window" into the FP tunnel was not deburred well (if at all) and the FP was dragging on some burring. I managed to clean the channel up and now the FP travels freely though its entire path.

If that's the procedure, could I safely use a micrometer on the existing firing pin to make the same determination? It's an STI slide. Does STI use a specific/standard size for all of their slides? Thanks.

Thanks guys. I'll do all of the things recommended above. In the event that I need to replace the firing pin, a few questions: I see them listed by caliber on STI's website, but it doesn't appear that they have an online store....EGW lists 4 different sizes of firing pins, .066, .068 and .075 and ".45 .093". Which of the first three is the correct one for a .40? (It's an STI slide) Is there a benefit to the Titanium FP?

I have a new-to-me Akai Custom 2011. It's had very few rounds through it but lots of dry fire by the previous owner. At a match today, I had an issue with the firing pin where if I dropped the hammer on an empty chamber (like when doing a sight picture trigger pull after Make Ready), the firing pin would travel forward and stick in the forward position. The firing pin channel is clean (I cleaned the gun thoroughly prior to the match). I don't know if the FP spring is a reduced power spring. What's the corrective action here? New FP? New spring? Thanks.

Very sorry. God speed to your Dad.

Unless you specifically want to shoot Limited Minor, don't waste your time on a 2011 in 9mm. If you go .40, you can shoot Minor or Major just by varying velocity or bullet weight. There's something about a custom built 2011. If your budget allows, I'd consider an Akai "Chuck" if a rail is your requirement. You won't be disappointed.

Aftec or bust!

Well, not quite a 2011 platform, but the Caspian in 9mm is a damn fine gun. My son shot one for a few years but recently decided to switch to single-stack.

Thanks Foxbat. Looks like there's been a good bit of rounding/abuse on the upper barrel lugs as well. Based on how I understand the timing to work, it looks like your gun is either unlocking too late, or is not unlocking all the way (i.e. when barrel is at full down/unlock position, the fronts of the barrel lugs are hitting the slide lugs as the slide moves rearward). I'm still pretty new to the 1911/2011 game, but that seems to make sense. Will be interested to hear what your builder has to say about this.

Yup, trying to learn right along with ya. I'm just curious to see what the barrel lugs look like after doing that much damage to the slide lugs.

Wow. Can you post a pic of your barrels upper and lower lugs and the inside of your frame? Very curious to see what those look like as well.

I used Nic Taylors videos the first couple of times http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oWXFdfDUdKQ