Smokin

It does run great, but I am wondering if I can make it run better (faster and with less recoil). Never hurts to have better equipment.

My "intuition" would say that a lighter slide would require even less force to bring the slide back into battery. Why would you need a heavier spring?

Yes. Other than the more durable finish, the trigger is better. That being said, I chose the blued finish and had a local smith "tune" my pistol. I personally prefer the looks of bluing to hard chrome despite the significantly poorer wear characteristics.

Hmmm. That may cause me to rethink the entire idea of lightening the slide. My STI started with a recoil master and my "favorite" change to the firearm has been the guide rod. I wa hoping that the lighter slide would help with felt recoil since it ia reciprocating mass (guide rod is fixed).

Recoil more? Most people have told me it will recoil less. The theoretical physics behind your equation also assumes a fixed mass. The mass has been reduced causing an increase in velocity. I'm not sure how that turns into increased felt recoil. What has been the "real world" experience of most?

I have an STI Edge 5.0 and am considering sending the slide to Gans Guns to have some lightening done. So far a local smith has one the trigger, hammer, extractor, and tungestn guide rod. So far the gun runs great. Will lightening the slide cause any detrimental problems? Will I potentially be in for a tuning nightmare?

Sent mine to Triangle and Benny turned mine around in less than 2 weeks with "everything" done. Lightented bolt, CRums, Fiberoptic sights, Slugs are POA/POI, etc. etc....it never malfunctions with all the ammo Ive tried and it cost less than Salient. I think the only thing that wasnt done that Salient includes is the stippled grips. I spent 2 hours with a soldering iron and now have stippled grips too.

I have the nordic clamp and rail for a QD sling swivel on the front of my M2. What is the best way to attach a sling to the rear? There is the factory sling stud, but the shotgun doesnt sit right using that stud. Are there any custom options? Has anyone fabricated a QD attachment option? Do most just use the VTac adapter?

My buddy's brand new SLP was doing that this weekend. He also had some extraction issues. Shot some Fiocci low recoil slug and the shotgun would not cycle. The spent shotshells would consistently get STUCK inside the chamber and required some pretty excessive force to manually extract. One shell looked like the ones you have pictured and required a cleaning rod shoved down the barrel to remove.

I am thinking of getting a Eberlestock Gunslinger II but was wondering which shotgun scabbard to buy for it. I have a 22" Benelli M2. Does their standard scabbard work well or do I use the larger one? Any comments about this setup?

Has anyone gate checked their gun cart, like a kid's stroller?

Do any of you travel (via air) and bring your 3 gun carts? Im looking to buy a cart, but also am wondering if its logistically possible to travel with this cart. How easily do the Rugged Gear carts break down for checking in? Looks like it could get expensive in a hurry with 1 pelican/storm with the rifles/shotgun/pistol checked, the gear and essentials in another large bag, and then the cart. Do any of you do this successfully or you do without the cart at out of state matches?

Which one do you use and why? Does anyone have one that holds double mags sizedways? I use the AP customs shell carriers in front, Pistol on the right side, and pistol mags on the left.

Standard charts? As long as your reticle is accurate at a particular magnification, how would the calculation of a target size to range be impacted? I have been shooting precision long range for years, and Ive never heard of this. Granted, I may always have something new to learn, this would be the first time I heard of a magnifiction dependent mil dot master. If you have a SFP scope and the max zoom is 15X, your reticle is more or less meaningless at ~10X unless you REALLY know you are EXACTLY at 10x in which case you now have a second math problem to solve. If your scope is FFP, then the reticle is always accurate regardless of zoom, but I dont see the advantage of dialing back the magnification for ranging purposes. I use an S&B 5-25PMII and can not recall ever using anything other than 25x to do my ranging for UKD targets. If I am engaging multiple targets at varying distances (known) or a mover (at a known distance), I will dial back the magnification. This way I find the target easier and then use the FFP reticle for hold over shooting.

The Tank Brake is effective, but also REALLY loud for other competitors.

As many have said here, the biggest issue with SFP is going to be the limitation on your maximum zoom. That being said, you will most likely be utilzing your max zoom for effective ranging. When you are working with smaller targets or targets at longer distances, the ability to differentiate between .05 Mil will be the difference between making the shot, or missing the shot. Good quality glass, understanding your reticle (many of the nicer reticles have "built in" tools to help you range such as lines with known thicknesses in different areas, etc.) You will usually use the lower mag to find the target, and the higher mag to range and kill the target. As an example, a 16" target that shows at .5 Mils is about 890 yards (roughly your 900 yard dope). However if youre a little off and its really .45 Mils then the range is 987 yards (your 1K dope) or if it is .55 mils you should be using your 800 yard dope. The significance is a BIG miss. On even a hotrod round...say a 6.5mm 139 Lapua Scenar, pushing 2900fps. 800 yard dope is roughly a 5.5mil comeup, 890 yards is 6.5mils of elevation, and 1K is 8 yards of comeup. The variation on a 308 using a 175 SMK would be MUCH worse. This is a very real scenario that is often used in many of the tactcal long range matches. The clarity of your glass, your real world experience ranging, and field conditions will come into play, but low magnification ranging can be challenging. FFP/2FP isnt really the issue.

I had to move to the PRK for 3 years. During the ENTIRE three years, I kept my Texas residency for this particular reason. It becomes a bit of a pain when you also have to keep your auto insurance, auto registration, DL, etc all from your original state. Basically you are FORCED to register your firearms if you are a Commefornia resident. However, they told me it was up to me on which state I had residency. I think the tricky part is that there are mandates on vehicle registration. I tried to skate around the law by keeping everything current in the United States and not Commefornia.

It seems that the vast majority of the multi gun community doesn't favor pistol grip srtocks. I have the Mesa urbino stock on my M4 and really like the shortened LOP. I am considering an urbino for my new M2 but I see so much negativity about pistol grip stocks.. Why? Is it pure preference, or is there a definite disadvantage?

Why are most if the competitors using .223/.556 over .308 or .260? Is it mainly the recoil and the expense of the rounds?

The big question for me will be if An extra $500 is a good price for some ion bond/gun bling.

How necessary is the JP heatsink on their rifles? Coming from a long range shooting background, I have never liked to attach objects to my barrels as they tend to affect the harmonics of the barrel. Granted, the barrel remains free floated, but I would have to assume that both stainless steel and the aluminum heat sinks expand at different rates (aluminum and steel have vastly different thermal coefficients of expansion). ALso, M4's, M16's, etc undergo far heavier rates of fire than any of our competition rifles would ever see in a match. Do most shooters opt to have the heat sink? For those that dont, have you noticed any adverse conditions?

So I "pulled the trigger" and ordered a JP yesterday. Seems I have 8 weeks to decide, but the UBR seems to be a heavy stock. I had this on a Noveske barreled AR in the past. It seemed to balance the rifle out a bit, but was still a bit bulky. I also talked to JP about carbine buffers with their low mass operating system and they said it isnt a problem. I believe they provide the carbine buffer and no longer use their proprietary buffer in these configurations.

Other than the trigger work, what do they do thats different than Triangle, Accurate Iron, C-rums, etc? Is it about $500 in anodizing/ion-bond/laser etching cosmetics?

Thanks for the feedback. Just bought a 21" M1. Should be at my FFL on Tuesday and then either off to Triangle Shooting Sports or Accurate Iron.

on the optic of 16 vs 18. I can do hypothetical ballistic calculations all day long, but will the extra 2" be materially different for POI if Im using a ballistic reticle on my scope? I don't want to go 18" and realize that I need a new scope.