Vlad

Actually Brian, as always you make perfect sense. After reading the other posts, last night I was paying close attention and indeed when my draw feels smooth it is almost like my muzzle is being pulled towards the target, but not in a straight line, it follow a bit of a curve. Which means that my muzzle starts pointing left but it follows a shallow curve and end up pointing at the target. I also noticed that to be smooth the muzzle should never pass the centerline of my body. By that I mean the muzzle can be pointed left for a part of the draw but the curve it describes should become tangential to a plane that passes through my nose and bellybutton, if you know what I mean. I have to think about this a bit more. Thank you all Vlad

I was practicing draws this morning, and I noticed something I always did but I never bothered to investigate. When I draw, the strong hand is angled towards the weak side and the muzzle is pointing about 30 degrees towards the weak side and then I start pointing forwards as my weak hand comes into the grip and both my wrists bend at about the same angle. My question is, should I start bending my strong wrist before my two hands join and try to be pointing towards the target from the earlier parts of the draw or should I leave it alone? It seems that the way I'm doing it is more natural when it comes to body angles, but pointing the muzzle the right way at all the steps would allow for a faster sight picture. Besides, even though I do not think that I ever came close to the 180 by doing that, the spectre of it now worries me a bit. What do you think? Vlad

www.hostingmatters.com. I have never had a problem with them. Vlad

Oh I know all the tricks, and I know about Edmunds, and I even played the reverse monthly payment game where I do tell them what I want my payment to be but I give them a number so low that the only way they can make a profit is to add $20 per month. This is the fourth car my wife and I have bought and I know I got a pretty good deal, and a much better one then the dealer even realized. I just hate playing this game. Vlad PS: heh .. I just noticed I got "free" window etching. They did it without asking, and tried to charge me, but when I told them no way, they took it of the bill. The winodws are etched though.

I really hate car shopping. It seems that this one of the last bastions of the trully crooked salesman. I had to buy a new car for my wife on tight schedule, but we did do out research about the SUVs she liked and about the rebates and special offers. Sat in the cars, drove them, made a decission. We even had a pleasent salesman. All was good until "the finance guy" start to play games with me. He tried to sneak in the window etching crap without asking and then got snotty when I told him no, and had to re do the paper work. That and he tried to sneak by us a rebate signed over to them, for about $1000, without mentioning it. I let him have the rebate. It was one of those "competitive vehicle" rebates where if you trade in a car of the same class you get an extra rebate. He thought that our trade in would work and sliped it in. We called the company ahead of time and knew it wouldnt. So he is going to end up with $1000 less then he thought he has making but I was not compeled to let him now after he tried to screw me. I hate that "business". No other that I know of considers this to be normal behaviour on the part of the "salesmen". I know there are some decent folks in it, and have delt with some of them in the past. But it seems that most are crooks. Comments welcomed Vlad

Two things I can think off, but you didn't tell us what Dillon did so they may be the same things. First make sure that your inner primer tube is correctly seated. It sound like it might not be deep enough, you should be able to see the plastic tip if you look in from front. Also make sure that it has the correct orientation. The second thing I would check is that the plastic tip on the primer tube is not damaged. If it is, your kit should include a spare one. What did Dillon suggest? Vlad

I wouldn't. They are just leading the way. On the other hand there can be a constitutional case waiting to be made here. Vlad

I wonder how that works. I have seen a number of people machine part of their Swenson shield as to reduce its size yet serve its purpose. I am a bit fuzzy, but does that still count as produced part or is it one of a kind? If it is still legal, then could I build up a CMC safety to have a small shield and till be legal? How would be different then the machined part? As for lawyers, as long as I build my own part and I don't try to sell it, I think I'm safe. Not that I actually plan to, it is more of an intelectual execise. Vlad

Today I shot our local monthly match, and while the turn out was great and the stages darn good, I had a terrible time. The temperature hit 90 degrees and the humidity I can only guess about but right now (7:30 pm) it is at %51 and it feels lower. I drank somewhere between 2 and 3 gallons of water and munched on salty foods. Yet by the 5th stage (of 7) my head began to hurt, and my eyes to blur. A total of 8 hours on the range have sapped the life from me. My head still hurts like hell and my eyes are slow to focus. I'm beginging to come out of it, and I continued to drink since I got home. Lessons learned for next match are many. First I need to remeber to bring a hat to keep the sweat from my eyes. Second, I need to bring gatorade or propel or whatever, instead of water. It just doesn't cut it. Third, I need a new pair of shooting glasses, as my yellow tinted ones are just not dark enough. Lastly, I need to switch to ear plugs, as wearing muffs in this kind a weather is a drag, both because they only make it hotter and because they make it harder to clean my glasses. I hate this. It is only May, for the love of Pete. If the east coast gets much hotter this year, I would really have to think twice about shooting long outdoor matches. Vlad

You are not alone. Buffy, Angel (which I didn't really follow but enjoyed every now and then) and Firefly, all Whedon shows, had a streak of "real" in them no matter how Sci-Fi they were. Personally I think there has been no better scene in a long time then the first episode of Firefly scene where the captain pushes the "bad guy" into the ship engine. Trust me, it makes sense if you watched the show. My TV watching has gone down to the odd History/Discovery/etc show and some movies on any of the 50 or so movie channels I get. Buffy and SG-1 were the last shows I really followed and SG-1 conflicts with our local IPSC fun-match. Though it turns out books are cool. Vlad

I use the 2046 version, which I got for free from a buddy. Works great with my SS Springer. It even locks. And it fits my CZ too ... Vlad

The neat thing about the AT500 is that it can grow into a 550B as you have money to spare. Thats the way I did it. As soon as you are tired of using some separate way of mesuring powder you will save the $70 for the powder messure. Then the $70 for the primer assembly. And then the $15 for the autoeject. And behold, you now have a 550B. Cool, eh? Vlad

Another vote for the Aeron, BUT make sure you sit in one first. I love mine, but my office mate can not stand them. If you are too tall or too short they may not work for you. The price is kinda high, but I have a feeling they retail for less then that. Further I wouldn;t hesitate to buy a used one, assuming it was not damaged. This things look like they wouldn't last a week, what with the plastic mesh and all, but they last forever. I have had mine for about 4 years, I spend about 6 hours a day in it, and my weight has been between 260lb and 300lb for that time period, and there is no wear what so ever on that chair. It is as good as the day I got it and I would be hard press to tell you if it was used or new. Good luck Vlad

Thank you. Actually a combination of what Brian and Flex are talking about is what I think is happening and what I need to to about it. The lack of visiual patience on my part doesn't allow me to call my shots. I think I can call my shots when shooting groups, as it is rare that I am surprised about where the wholes in the paper are, but Brian is obsolutly right that I do not call my shots at those long shots. My type 3 focus (as THE BOOK calls it) leaves a lot to be desired. I think the exercise that Flex recommened might help, as well as some of those from the eye workout thread. Time to dryfire. Vlad PS: Thanx Brian, both for this place without which questions like this would have no place to be asked, and for your book, which always seems to answer some questions that bother me. I should no better and go read the correct chapter again, before I try to figure it myself.

Hi all, It took me a while but today I realized one particular problem holding me back. While I can soot some nice groups in slowfire, and I can take quick A shots at anything under 7 yards or so, I have a real problem shooting accurate medium shots with any degree of speed. Basically, I can point shoot my way through close up things, I can shoot groups at medium and longer distances, but if I try to speed up at all my longer shots are crap. I think what happens is that I let the shot go before I am actually ready and my sights are not quite where I want them. I guess I've also "known" this for some time, because I also tense up on the gun which only makes the problem worth. Example, today I shot CM 99-52 (cash n carry), and I had 2 clean misses on T3. Knowing that if I missed on the A zone I would be hitting no-shoots I went for head shots, strangled my gun, and missed wildly. The rest of my hits where A's with one or two C's. My time was craptastic due to a jam, plus it was raining, so I'm not really worried about that. What really bothered me though, was that I missed that 14 yard T3, TWICE, and I would have no problem hitting it during slowfire practice. Any suggestion as what kind of things I should practice to work on this problem? Any particular techniques or drills that might help me? Thanx Vlad

I'm shooting a SS Springfield, and I'm C L10, but that C was done shooting minor with my CZ, so I don't know if it counts. I am doing a lot better with the Springer Vlad

My understanding is that most reports of such things are from days long gone, which should also raise the question of the powder quality. However I can see how loading a LARGE magnum rifle case with a light load may allow the slow powder to light up "faster" as the primer flame licks the whole surface as opposed to the bottom of powder column. On the other hand, the same rifle shooter might have been trying to make a soft shooting plinking load for his super magnum T-rex wacker and and used some fast pistol powder of the very wrong kind. I can imagine the reaction "But it was a really light load. I normally use 110 grains of H-4831 and this time I only used 40 grains <mumble> of Clays </mumble>". My guess is the guys the make powder for a living have every interest to know if this possible or not (assuming the right powder). I'm sure they have tried every little ideas they could come up with, so I believe it is not a problem, or at least not with the correct modern powder. On the other hand if you want a load that low, maybe a different powder may serve you best. Vlad

I suspect that you are right about the progressives but their single stages presses are ok. A Chalanger press is right next to my 550B and I use it quite a bit for .308, which I hand trim, trickle charge, and so on. Sometimes a progressive just doesn't make sense and the Lee singles work and are cheap. I also use one of their hand presses for necksizing and depriming .308 while watching TV in the comfort of my living room. I have a feeling the wife would be ... uh .. distraught if I decided to mount a dillon on the coffee table. However having seen the he cheap quality of their plastic bits I suspect anything with plastic moving parts would be a disaster waiting to happen. If money is an issue, do what I did. Buy a 500AT and slowly upgrade it to a 550B. It is worth using at every stage of the upgrade, and every addition makes you appreciate what you were missing Vlad

Anyone know how these bullets are from a health standpoint? I emailed them the same question and got no answer. I am curious how they compare to HP, FMJ, Plated, and Lead when it comes to the amount of lead one gets on his hands when loading or in his lungs when shooting. Vlad

I'm using a single stack .45 for L10 with CMC Power10 mags, but I noticed that when loaded with more then 5 rounds, the bullets start to nose down some. When racking the first round into the gun it goes kinda nose forward and it feels quite rough, being forced upward quite harshly. Oddly I never notice it when shooting, and all the mags feed fine. I wonder if stiffer springs would solve this. Who makes extra power springs that work with the CMC mags? Vlad

Actually my bad, Beretta are 125, the 119 number was for the Vertec/Elite guns. Vlad

This might be a thread drift, but I need to point out that CZ makes decocker guns, and thus the "manual decock" thing can be solved. And now for my question ... How is a CZ a short barrel gun?? What the heck is the limit?? According to the CZ website the barrel is 120mm. The Beretta 92 is listed as 119. What gives over there? Vlad

I'm sorry, I wasnt clear. I was not changing the cups, I was changing the whole slider, but it was the first time I was using that slider and it need it to be adjusted. I will try to replace the pin and hope that fixes it. Thank you all. Vlad

I had a bad loading day today. I wanted to load some 9mm and I had to change the primer slider to the small one, I didnt set the cup/post low enough and that trashed the primer tube nozzle. And there went primers all over the press and floor. Then while setting the cup position, I managed to break the decaping pin. Great job Lee, that collet which is supposed to give way didnt. So I replace the pin and then the real problem starts ... I kept on getting little jams as the priming bar would not return fully under the shell plate due to spent primers falling in front of it. I looked around and noticed that the little chute keeps on getting stuck open and allowing the spent primer to drop wherever. Most of the time the spent primer actually lands in the cup, but every now and then they get droped in bad spots causing unauthorized work stopages Any one else have this problem? is there a solution or at least a 12 step support group? Thanx Vlad

You know if you made it fit inside the tubular mag, and "only minor drilling required", then it would be capital-T-Tactical. Both of you are too late: http://www.wildwestguns.com/Accessories/Lightmount.jpg