bountyhunter

OUCH, $20 for 32oz! Just think, we used to get Sunoco 260/100 octane for $0.32/gallon. I remember Chevron Custom Supreme used to ring in at about 104 octane..... cost maybe 35 cents on a good day. Actually, with this booster you can get a case of 12 quarts for about $120 including delivery, so the price isn't too bad that way ($10/quart). But a quart will treat about 32 gallons at a "+3" number octane boost (one ounce per gallon).... so it works out to about 30 cents a gallon to get a +3 octane boost. The point is that tetraethyl lead boosts octane WAYYYY better than the junk they sell in those bottles at Kragens that cost $5 for about 12 ounces. That stuff is mostly toluene or similar chemical, which has an inherent octane of about 135. Adding a 12 ounce bottle to 15 gallons of gas only raises the octane about 0.3 of an octane number.... like 91 to 91.3 octane. It's basically worthless and very expensive.

Added with no offense to anyone: make sure you bend the mainspring the right way. To increase tension, "flatten" it out a bit. If you add to the curve, it reduces spring force. Only mentioned it because somebody did bend it the wrong way....

FYI, I own about five torque wrenches and the two that are "click" types don't have my confidence or respect. I checked their calibration using the beam deflection wrenches and the click ones are VERY inaccurate at lower settings.... and have an "offset" compared to the scales printed on the shaft of the wrench all the way up the range.I don't even use the click ones any more, just stick with the deflection wrenches.

Frame mounted firing pin or hammer mounted? If hammer mounted, clean it off and brush the area of the frame where the hammer sets. If frame mounted, remove it, clean it, and clean the channel it passes through. Next, try a new main spring. (If you need one give me your address in e mail (I don't do PMs) I will send you a couple stock springs. You can even try the bend your own Regards, Check to see if the hammer is dragging on the frame. Many smiths have that and it reduces striking energy. 1) If the ejector sping can "work it's way over" the retainer..... it is hosed. That should never happen, and shouldn't even be possible.. 2) Are the light strikes showing a light indentation in the prinmers in the correct place? If so, a new mainspring will fix this or just a little bend in yours.

Any old dinosaurs out there with creatures designed to run on leaded premium gas (besides me)? I actually found a place that sells octane booster with real live tetraethyl lead...... and this stuff will bump your octane about three numbers with one ounce per gallon added. Way better than the worthless junk they sell at auto stores. Be warned: real lead will screw up a car designed to run on unleaded so you can't use it for that. In an engine designed for leaded fuel, this is what you want. http://www.kemcooil.com/product_info.php?pId=61

It's amazing how badly I shoot when I start worrying about things like where my finger is....

My MkII started jamming after I tried some raptor (HOT) ammo that gunked up the barrel throat. You need a real live barrel rod and brass brush to get the throat clean. The bore usually does not get dirty, but the throat does. The other thing that causes jams is lousy ammo, and there is tons of bad .22 ammo around. You just don't get quality on something they sell at 500/8.99........

It's actually an extra four months they will be forced to stay (on top of the 12 already served). http://www.nytimes.com/2006/07/30/world/mi...ast/30iraq.html http://www.armytimes.com/story.php?f=1-292925-1982906.php

My less-than-new 625-8's had two different pin lengths and *both* were shorter than the C&S. Has S&W wised up, or is the answer more like there isn't a standard pin length as far as the factory is concerned? Probably just those crummy MIM parts......

Make sure to file for unemployment RIGHT AWAY. They will tell her she is not eligible if she was 'fired for cause", but it's total crap. File and demand a hearing and they will have to pay anyway. She also has a cause of action since she was being required to do work she was not hired to do. Sorry she got reamed, it's happened to me before. But make them pay first.

That is what I was thinking. usually they do a bunch of encouraging things and then spring some kind of "fee" on the "winner" or require part of the "tax" be paid up front.

I remember the first two or three hours (of many) I spent doing rework when I got my new Para 1640 was rounding in the razor sharp edges all over the slide. I swear you could probably shave with the lower edge along the length of the slide, and all around the ejection port it was sharp. You may want to do some drills to see if you can find the offending area and go after it with a needle file. Not sure what else to do....

Good points. I'd bet that the spin of the bullet would impart a significant opposite spin on the shooter, too. If it's a revolver there would also be a rotational "moment" imparted back to the shooter's hand by the bullet nose striking the edge of the forcing cone slightly off axis of the bore line, unless it entered perfectly centered (almost unheard of these days).

Mine runs standard 115-gr factory ammo fine with a 12# spring and a shok buff.

Perhaps you could leave him a note to that effect. Last time one of his moron friends parked blocking my driveway, I left a polite note on their car. I found it torn up and shoved under my garage door the next day. It's possible they were offended and thought I was trying to show off by using multi-syllable words.....

I am not sure that is industry standard. I believe standard recoil spring on a 5" 1911 (9mm) is 12#. That's what came stock in my STI. Mine also came with a 19# mainspring. The opinion from the Wolff site is: 14# seems a bit high for standard load 9mm.

I had to learn to gunsmith all the guns I own with awful triggers (HI-Power, Beretta 92, CZ, Para, Ruger...) just so I could get a decent trigger job. The backlog on a good gunsmith out here is measured in the passings of haley's Comet. There is nothing so nice as getting it just right...

NO. I did some experiments on my guns back when the C+S pin first came out. Not one of my guns would ignite reliably at a lower mainspring pressure by installing that pin. The distance of protrusion is not what is limiting ignition: it's the energy transferred by the hammer to the FP, and that doesn't change with the new FP. I also found the C+S pins to be poorly made, as every one had to be hand fitted in size and length. As stock, they bind in the FP channel and the tip protrudes far enough to drag on the tops of the brass. I am underwhelmed by the C+S pins and have not found they do anything good. I assume some opinions differ, but most of the other gunsmiths I have read posts from say the pins don't improve ignition. YMMV

NO, Sound waves can not be transmitted through a vacuum.

Sorry, man. If it's any consolation I backed into and murdered my neighbor's garbage can yesterday and tore up my back bumper. The top of that stupid can is just below line-of-sight out my back window and he leaves it where I will hit it every time as I back out of my driveway. I would really love to stuff him in it. Of course, after I killed him. It would be cruel to trap a living person in a garbage can.....

Been there, done that...... although I suspect that lately my best days are probably not as good as your worst days.

The local range that hosted our league has apparrently been whining about it not generating enough income for them. Whatever the story is, we were just told that the league is history. This really blows. Some of us old dinosaurs don't have the physical capability anymore to get up at 6AM on a weekend, drive for an hour and a half, and spend all day shooting IPSC or whatever the shoot du jour is for the month. The weekly league was really something we enjoyed. This is the second time that range has jerked the league away.... the last owners shut the range down on us. I thought the new guys who took it over would care about building up a following for shooting. Apparrently all they care about is ripping off the rubes for their training classes, not letting us old guys have fun busting some caps once a week. I'm going to miss that shooting. One more pleasure goes down the toilet.

The big question is would the bullet be able to hold the oxygen in the case long enough to fire. Only if the case was sealed well enough to maintain internal pressure integrity. We made power supplies that went in HARM missiles that fly under the wing of a fighter and they had to be tested in an altitude chamber at pressure equivalent of 100,000 feet. The cases which had any tiny defect would allow the unit to lose internal pressure and then it would blow up the power coverter due to electrical arcing between components, resulting from loss of atmosphere. If the bullets final and steady velocity w/respect to the plane was as stated, the bullet would have no velocity with respect to ground (momentarily) then start falling. I've seen them fired underwater.

I've done both in my 40 years aboard two wheels and a motor, and cold never scared me. Your hands and feet go numb and your muscles get "reluctant" as they start freezing up. I also noticed that I start to think in "images" not thoughts as the brain freezes....But I was never in danger of passing out. The heat raises your core temp which forces your blood vessels to dilate and your heart to race to pump blood out to the skin to get "cooled"... except when its 100+ outside, that reflex is killing you because the blood is being heated, not cooled. The other heat killer on a bike is that the head releases about 1/3 of the heat which radiates from the body.... and with your full face helmet on, that is really going to make your core temp spike in a hurry.

Ditto. The slide acts as a recoil absorber (reducing muzzle rise) because it moves rearward "spreading out" the recoil energy over time, making the peak impulse (and peak muzzle jump) less. Mainspring weight also affects this because a mighter mainspring allows the gun to unlock and release the slide from battery more easily. You might try one of those dual action "recoil reducers" from Firedragon as they have a light spring weight which progressively gets heavier as the slide moves back. Or, just go with a light recoil spring and a shock buff to protect the frame and slide.