wgj3
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Posts posted by wgj3
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Tried it yet? Just curious. Much easier than other method I mentioned in your other thread.
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Might also try an SNL basepad, trimming spring a little, or an SV or Rescomp tube...
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Recoil in mag without aufficient crimp can also contribute to bullet setback. Had very similar case failure in my rifle with Wolf ammo. To prevent scratching chamber with broken case extractor, had my gunsmith plug case neck and fill case with low temp melt alloy. Then after allowing it to harden, pounded broken (now filled) case out with old brass cleaning rod from the muzzle.
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I will agree with everyone that the TTI's are tough to beat, and, they can be had in cool colors. But, one thing that you can get with the TF's is Brass instead of just Aluminum. I started shooting Limited with my M&P Pro .40, and the extra stationary/non-reciprocating mass in the brass basepads was, and still is, nice for helping tame major PF recoil. Turns out out that it also helps to make minor PF ammo feel like bunny poots. And, the brass pads seem to help get spent mags out as quickly as possible for reloads. I can get 20 in the mags with either make. I do still have both and will continue to do so. I will keep red TTI's on my 9mm mags and brass TF's on my .40 mags. I think that it is more of a personal preference thing than one being particularly better in all regards. As usual, YMMV.
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Whoa! Dillon takes insanely good care of their customers. Might wanna clarify what's going on before you alienate yourself. Did your press work without that part? If so, then that would be an upgrade, not a broken part. Those guys are busting it just as hard as the component makers. Im sure they are probably more than a little over whiney folk who want free stuff.
If you dislike it so much, I will happily give you $200 and take it off your hands. Then you could put that into a red or green press with "better" service...
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"steel must fall to score" and the rule that hits that do not make the steel fall are REF's are not contradictory. Stating that steel must fall to score is not actually needed in a USPSA match. In outlaw or multigun, this may be different.
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You can still use your existing die sets, but you will want to adjust the seat/crimp die so that it only seats and then buy a crimp (only) die from Dillon or Lee to put in station 5 on ur 650.
This allows for fairly consistent OAL of finished rounds even with brass that isnt perfectly uniform in length.
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That was all well and good for that particular firearm and that exact bullet, but its going to be different for you with your particular firearm(s) and whichever projectile you select.
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That is some slow mini-mag. It should be in the 1300-1400fps range. Generally, stuff in the neighborhood of and just under 1000fps is considered subsonic.
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Will take some pics this evening.
As far as porting goes, ported choke tubes are designed to grab/slow the wad for better shot patterns. Barrel ports along either side of the rib near the muzzle end of the barrel have some effect on decreasing muzzle rise, but nothing crazy huge.
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I've been running mine (SX3) for about 2.5yrs and still like it very much. I've had no trouble with it at all. I went with the Briley extension, bolt handle and oversized carrier release, but I'm sure the Nordic stuff is equally effective.
Add: the replacement barrels are fairly pricey, had my 28" tube cut to 24" instead of replacing it.
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We dont usually push even the lightest pills fast enough out of 223/556 to see bullet failure. With a .22/250 or 220 Swift or something like that pushing 40gr or lighter bullets with ultra-thin jackets at well over 4000fps in a faster twist barrel, you might see the "disappearing bullet" phenomenon.
Realistically, any modern projectile down to even the 35-40gr stuff should be fine at typical .223/5.56 velocities. And, should be fine for shorter-range work. Just dont try shooting thru barrels or anything like that.
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Reviving an oldie...
Things I learned today:
Plenty of options to run your Cmore
Watch batteries are equivalent when stacked together to standard 1/3N battery.
Lots of "sizes" will work. Seems that LR44 and A76 are the main options but 357 seems to be pretty normal as well.
Most interesting point I learned was the difference between LR44 and A76. Seems that the spec for LR44 calls for alkaline cell and A76 calls for Silver Oxide cells. The cheaper batteries are generally the Alkaline version.
One chap pointed out the his sight went out mid-stage and another claimed that this shouldn't happen, it should slowly dim instead. Both were partially correct; it depends on the type of cell being used. Alkaline cells have a sloping power curve and will dim over time. If, however, you use the silver oxide cells, they have a constant power curve and will just stop when the cell is spent. If you look on the packages, it will often, not always, tell the type of cell.
Also, Walmart here in Hartselle, AL does still stock "Night Bobby" replacement batteries for $1.97 for a 2pk. The package is labeled A76 but the cells say LR44, so I'm guessing they are alkaline.
I'm thinking of using the alkalines for practice and then pop in a set of silver oxides for matches.
Hope this helps someone. This thread led me down the rabbit hole and a little research tied it all together for me. I'm sure all you smarter people already knew this stuff though...
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Ive been through an 8# jug of Promo in .45. Its been fine for major with 225gr cast lead in my SS. As mentioned above, use same WEIGHT charge as Red Dot data calls for in your chosen round. I dont know about Red Dot or Promo in 9mm, but if you can find RD data, just use same charge weight of Promo and try it out.
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Reliability has been questioned.
That said, I bought a used one off a guy after he had somehow broken the follower. Sent it back to SF. They repaired it and it has run fine for me in 2 different rifles. Plenty of others have spent more $ and had much worse luck. YMMV.
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Perfectly fine combo or I have some spare standard pins I could spot you if you preferred.
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Pretty much requires one of the super compact micro red dots with an equally compact mount to attach to the rail and have relief for the scopes power adjustment ring, at least with my limited experience.
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SSS models will work without any mods. They are great!
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I certainly didnt mean to seem short. If you read the product info for the Grams spring and follower, they will tell you to use 11 coils for anything 140mm or shorter and use the 13 coil for anything over 140mm. You also mentioned reliablility over capacity, I have used 13 coil springs for L10 just for a little extra oompf when the diminished capacity wasnt an issue. Ive also noticed that many "tuned" mags have some amount of spring removed to allow a little more room for rounds.
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I would bet that most HK's will be fine with darn near anything that will chamber in them.
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There are numerous pinned threads on this topic if you do a search.
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Any of the calibers work just fine when down-loaded to around 130-135 PF. You can play with different bullet weights at higher velocities for the lighter bullets and lower speeds for the heavier. They will all work just fine. One thing you might notice when shooting a 155gr .45 bullet vs. a 230 gr of same caliber at same PF (diff velocities) out of same gun is that the heavier bullet at lower velocity makes the gun feel a little sluggish in cycling. Some of that can be managed with different springs. Caliber makes little difference. And, if cost is the same to you run whichever you like best. Bigger holes with larger calibers will sometimes pay off around the edges of the scoring area.
My understanding for the dominance of 9mm in Production has to do with keeping recoil to a minimum while still keeping the gun cycling/recovering quickly; lighter bullets at higher velocities. And, most perceive 9mm as being less expensive to shoot as well.
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I have the 2-pak and a 2x2 on 2 different guns. They hold the shells nice and snug, but I have no trouble snatching one out for emergency (slide lock) reloads. They have to stay tight/snug to keep the shells from falling out in recoil. Maybe a few bowls of wheaties are in order...?
Removing a Broken Case from Chamber
in General Gunsmithing
Posted
Tried it yet? Just curious. Much easier than other method I mentioned in your other thread.