stardust tommy
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Posts posted by stardust tommy
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loads from bullseye/PPC/BIANCHI shooters for 50y accuracy
115gr XTP/HAP 6.1gr Power Pistol
115gr XTP/HAP 5gr N330
115gr +- 1050 FT/Sec
124 +- 1020 ft/sec
147gr +- 900ft/sec
new or 1x reloaded brass (same stamp), Federal gold primer, no crimp
atlanta arms, Stan Chen factory ammo
federal hydrashock 147gr factory
these are accuracy loads, not the best for IPSC, IDPA, USPSA...
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load and springs are fine... try to adjust the ejecor for a more horizontal ejection
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bump up your load a little. cases are not ejected at all and are pushed back forward. (maybe a lighter recoilspring)
remove some material on the inside (tip) of the ejector so it hits the case more to the outside.
and as JPL above mentioned remove some material so the ejector hits the case as high as possible.
this way the brass will eject more horizontal
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take a look at Chambers custom pistols, Joe builds first class bullseye pistols that shoot sub 1" @50y... he also builds open pistols
Accuracy X is the same
than you have an accurate and correct build pistol
you can spent a lot on special engravings/milling/laser cuts and still have a 3" or more gun @ 50yards
if you look at the new Bull sasII balasteros you pay a few thousand dollars/euro's and the piringpin stopplate isn't even cut to the correct hight of the slide...
SVI is nice and looks cool but they don't won the bianchi cup, PPC nationals or bullseye...
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On 3/18/2019 at 6:41 PM, Hi-Power Jack said:
Okay, another faulty memory - thought it was N310, guess it was N340.
Sorry, again.
N330 is THE powder for accurate (50yards) 9mm loads (and power pistol and N320)
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get yourself a STI or a custom... I see a lot faults in SPS pistols...
they use a long link for lock up, link will wear and the berrel seems to "torque" itself in the slide/frame
remove barrel and guide rod and than you can check slide-frame tollerance
there is most of the time something wrong in the trigger mechanism (most shooters don't know enough about the mechanism to recognise the problems)
al cheap MIM parts (had 1 with a 3.5lbs trigger with hammerfollow, bad hammer)
saw 1 that shot when you release the trigger, not whe you pull the trigger
there is no pin for the mainspringcap (safe money where you can...)
my experience with SPS...
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ask Rob Leatham or Doug Koenig :-)
on youtube there are some old Bianchi cup video's...
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+1 for the geppert trigger, might take some time to fit right but worth the money
adjusting to the correct lenght is major advantage
I had 1 with a broken triggerbow adter a few 1000 rounds
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normaly you have to adjust the searspring to go to a light pull. tolerances between frame,parts and MSH will result in different tension on the searspring
most of the time you have to cut the secundairy angle on the sear to get the trigger to break like glas.
if you want to have a great trigger you can do some magic with polishing and adjusting some angles/corners but that is more for people who know what they are doing
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this is a video from Jorge Ballesteros... look how important a short reset is... his finger touches the front of the triggerguard
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"normal" for a middle class pistol (like SPS), but here in Belgium you pay more than a handfitted custom... so I rather pay 1000 euro less for a correct build pistol.
a long link is a tuning method from the time there where no oversized barrels, long link is fast and cheap to take away some play. problem is that the link in lock up is just over it's highest point... this will result in extra stress on link, link pin and slidestop.
gr T
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13 hours ago, KrisS said:
As for the photo - it seems that you are right. So here is the top of the slide stop. Not sure but it seems that on the photo below there is a sign of the link and two spots where it touches the lower lugs.
you see 2 marks where the barrellugs touch the slidestop before the link pushes the barrel in lock up. the center mark is from the link pushing the barrel up in lock up
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On 1/2/2019 at 3:05 PM, KrisS said:
Please find image of a slide stop with the signs from lower lugs. if there are marks then the lower lugs contact the slide stop. This is at least how it looks in mine (Bul SAS Ii UR Open)
this is the underside of the slidestop, the only thing you see is the mark of the link from pulling the barrel out of lock up.
The BUL pistols I have seen on the IWA gunshow 2 and 3 years back where that good I didn't even stopped at there boot the last year..
they are expensive here in Europe, even more expensive than a full custom made of top quality parts...
I have not seen a current model not older than 1 year
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verry nice, try to find a Antonin Zendl (or Eemantech) hammer, they are much better than the factory. (ipscstore.eu)
Zendl also make a reduced power triggerreturn spring
you have to use a carbid drill to dril the frame, they are hard
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geppert vario trigger, adjustable in lenght
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@GIO ,no thanks... a lot of great gunsmiths helped me out when I got into trouble
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test without the gripsafety
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custom barrels are no problem in the Netherlands (Drummen, Langezaal...) or I can make you 1 (Lothar Walther blanks) If you go trough Langezaal I will sent him a piece of LW blank cheap (1/10 twist 30mm).
gr Tom
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I have no idea, there is/was an importer in the US...
gr Tom
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look at the bottom, RN is most of the time lead while HP often is copper. the lead of the RN will build up in the comp and is hard to clean out
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in europe 125gr hbwc from h&n with vihta N310 (or 148gr with N310/320)
in the US remington lead 148gr hbwc with WST powder
load your wadcutters 1mm out of the case for faster reloads
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I think you need the older books like the Kuhnhausen but the best book is called "the internet forums". you have to know who is who and learn from them. there is a lot of info on the 1911 forum, 1911pro (FB), bullseye L forum, here...
but you have to know the real GOOD professional gunsmiths, there is also a lot of cr*p in those forums
gr T
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stipple the grip and finish the gun (cerakote is a budget solution, DLC or PVD or way better)
spend the money from a metal grip on a good training course
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I have the same problem and the only thing that helps is a firm grip on the gun while loading the first round.
the gun has to much headspace (my fault, don't build your first gun with a trubor barrel) but the problem started after a few thousand rounds. I always shot 115gr bullets and they don't group well anymore, only 124gr.
the comp doesn't hit the slide, without the extractor the problem still exist, aimpoint micro or cmore railway makes no difference, 10 or 8lbs recoilspring does not affect the problem, reamed out the comp...
New to 2011 - SPS Pantera
in 1911-style Pistols
Posted
since you are in Europe...
best parts for a good price https://cesar-shop.com/product/egw-ignition-kit-w-lightened-hammer-1911-2011 , they do need adjustments for optimum performance
change the extractor (SPS will break)
look that the mag isn't touching the ejector while inserting, ejector will break if they touch
I have now a BT extractor and ejector (also from the CESAR WEBSHOP), parts look good but need some adjustments