dauntedfuture
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Posts posted by dauntedfuture
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DMPS has a new AR10 frame that is quite a bit smaller then some of the others out there. The standard AR10 is quite a bit different then an AR frame. There is more to mess with and or to need tuning with some of the AR10's, I don't think they are as "plug and play" as the AR-15 platform is. Going to a caliber other then .308 can cause headaches, or at least it did when people put guns together as the AR-10 bolt is quite big and there is lots of mass moving around. D Tubb used to shoot a SR-25 in .260 until it blew up on him, after that he finished the Tubb 2000. This was early 2000 ish and parts have come a long way.
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I think that I have a CMC trigger in one of my guns. They are OK, clean and light enough, the price is right, but I don't think that the reset is as positive as it could be.
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They work quite well. Sort brass before you tumble it, if you sort after then 9mm brass will stick in .40 and .40 in .45. If your really lucky you get a 9mm stuck in a .40 inside of a .45.
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With my highpower barrels I was lucky to get 3500-4000 rds. This was a 20" Krieger. Most barrels dont last as long as Kriegers will. This is all for NRA highpower which requires more accuracy then for 3 GUN. In general: Cut rifle barrels last longer then button rifle barrels, Benchrest barrels with shallow groves don't last as long as others, Chrome lined or CHF barrels will generally not shoot as well but be a little more consistent longer then a quality barrel.
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I suspect that 50 FPS +/-, or a 100 FPS ES would be about 4" or a little less then 1 MOA at 500 yds. Past 500 yds, things really start to open up with ES in reloads, 100 FPS at 1000 yds with a is 24" or more I think. This is provided your rifle does not have harmonic issues which can contribute to elevation problems. You can get away with more with a .308 then you can with a .223, but I weigh my 300yd charges for NRA HP in .223.
H4350 is quite slow for .308. What Barnes bullets are you using? If they are barnes match bullets and wthey shoot well you are good. I would not waste any of the high dollar barnes bonded or solid bullets on rams. If it was me, I would look at Varget, RL15 or H4895 or another powder in that burn rate, about 40-42g, weigh your powder and look for a 168-175g BTHP match bullet.
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Remington 7 1/2 primers are very hard primers. I have shot too many to count and have never had a slam fire with them. The only slam fire I ever had was with Remington 6 1/2 primers which are NOT THE SAME. Experience has taught me that rem 7 1/2 are some of the best small rifle primers out there and they are my go to primers when I can find them with all powders I have tried. You will get a mark when you drop the bolt on a loaded round in most all ARs out there including every COLT M-4 that I have ever been issued; I have read one report of a slam fire of M855 in an M4 but I suspect that the person had an AD and attempted to cover it up as his "evidence" was the small primer mark on an extracted loaded round. At one point, there was a safety message issued telling people not to re-use previously chambered ammo as repeatedly chambering the same round could "sensitize" the primer.
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Last year I was running a 18" midlength DD barrel with CMC trigger, adj gas, JP Comp and Vortex razor 1-6 and LMOS. Given the choice I would have run the same rifle in Afghanistan with a FH or a suppressor. I would have put the standard operating system back in the gun, that's about it. From what I hear, the Trijicon VCOG was developed to meet the needs of the military to provide one optic to replace all the ACOGS and CCOs out there in the military. I'm not sure if that's 100% true but it makes sense.
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While possible, its highly unlikely that its bad ammo. You say that you have shot Hornady steel match out of this gun before; it was the 75g stuff and not the 55g steel match correct. What barrel do you have? I would check that your barrel is actually a 1-8 twist; you can measure this with a cleaning rod. Check your compensator if you have one to make sure that there are no copper marks on it. I cant think of much else provided your bullets were not going through some tall grass on the way down range and that's unlikely to effect much.
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NRA F class midrange would be a good place to start. If its a NRA mid-range or long range match then they will likely let you shoot as well.
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That's great. I had some VV 160 that went bad. I had transferred it to a another bottle with a metal lid. the powder apparently broke down and ate through the metal lid. Needless to say it got hot in Texas in the summers so that's a likely contributor. the powder was 5 yrs old or so.
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In general, when I have an issue with loaded rounds for some reason, I attempt to identify what step of phase of the process is giving me trouble. When I set up a run of pistol, I will gauge a few sized cases to make sure the die is set up correctly. Provided that's good, ill try a little belling is ok. If your powder mechanism is too far down, it will mess up things too, especially on rifle where it can collapse and bulge the shoulder. Bullets should have tension going into the case and enough of a bell, but not too much. I long ago learned that a separate seating die and crimp make your life easier and that lee factory crimp dies are quite good. They "crimp" and squeeze the whole case a little but and I had many fewer rejects. I experienced an oversized lee .38 super die a while ago, lee sent me another one for .355 bullets as their normal one is for .356. Provided all that's good ill test with seated bullets and make sure everything else is good to go. I have no experience with PD 147 JHPs but I like their FMJ 147's.
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So from shooting 1200M in England with a .308, its a far piece. You are running into transonic issues at that point etc.
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I think this would be most appropriate for the precision rifle section. I would ask who ever is teaching the class. A standard .308 will have trouble past 800 let alone 1200 yds, so you are getting into high performance territory. I think you are going to have to get bigger then most of the smaller 6mm calibers out there. I would look at 6.5x.284 as my first choice due to great ballistics and lower recoil. After that I would look at a 7mm magnum, then the 300 Win mag. All of these are going to be hard on barrels. In all honesty I would make sure you can get out and shoot at least one NRA HP or F class rifle match before the class to see what happens with your gear. shooting at 1000 yds involves lots of skill but without suitable equipment, even the best shooters will fail.
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I put a solid piece of ply wood on the bottom of my bench and put boxes of bullets on that. It should do the trick.
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What profile bullets? Place loaded round against table bullet down, apply weight to base of case. If it moves at all then its neck tension, if you are having jams that are setting the bullets back then its something with the bullet profile or length. Can you drop a loaded round into your barrel and have it "thunk" on the bottom? If not then you need to look at seating deeper or a different bullet. I second the U Die and use of a separate crimp die. Is there a chance that you are using Hornady dies? If so, many of the .40 dies used a roll crimp, yes that's right a roll crimp. It took me a long time to identify that issue. Hornady sent me a taper crimp die for free and I think they have since "fixed" the issue.
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I shoot solo 1000 with 147 Precision delta or Zero bullets. Fast powder and heavy bullets = light recoil.
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with what ever bullet you choose I recommend looking at one of the ballistic calculators. JBM has one that has most all bullets already loaded for use. Bullet drop is not the only thing to look for, consider windage and energy remaining. For example; if your shooting no further then 200 yds most bullets are transparent provided they are accurate enough, start shooing E types or big steel at 500-600, and you get more target action out of a 77 then a 55g. I think 77's do a better job on Larue robo-targets too.
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I have decided to build another rifle for three gun and relegate my current one to a backup role. Among the hundreds of choices out there I am considering my choices for hand guards. My current rifle wears a 15" JP. Its nice and durable but quite heavy and I intend to keep things a little lighter on this next build. My choice is between the AP customs 15" and the Lancer. I think they about both about 2" diameter. I believe mounting the AP is easier as you don't have to glue the adapter in place. Any comments on durability etc.?
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I add a little water to the media and let that go when I start. After using that media for the first time, ill dump it out and clean out the clumped dust inside of the bowl. After that I add a dryer sheet, that cleans up the rest of the dust. I am using corn cob media in bulk from Harbor freight.
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I never had any issues with lead or coated bullets in my glock 17, 19 or 22.
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I have a two 4 MOA mico's and a M4 with a 2MOA dot. I think the M4 would be my preference between the two even though its a bit heavier. If I was going to build a NON-magnified optic gun I would look hard at the Leupold prismatic as that's what most of the shooters use or a Eotech with the drop dots built in.
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FC brass has less internal capacity then LC does so its "hotter" with the same powder charge.
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take a look on JBM ballistics and compare the two loads. Provided you are shooting lead bullets, the BC's are both going to be very low. 125 jacket blat base vs 150 jacket BT, the edge will go to the 150 BT. Set the computer up to zero both loads at 100 yds and see what drop you get at 200 or 300 yds with both. At 200 yds I suspect you will be 3" high with the 150's provided all else remains the same.
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I have used 30MM LEUPOLD QRW rings for years with good results but i'm not sure they would be high enough for your AR-10. Good return to zero when switching back to scope after irons match. If you go the Larue route, make sure you get the mount tight. I was having some wondering zero issues with mine until I torqued it down tighter than I thought necessary.
Remington 6 1/2
in General Reloading
Posted
6.5's are very soft small rifle primers. Don't use them in a semi auto rifle. I should think that they will be fine in a pistol. I have shot all kinds of SR primers without issue in a Glock so they should be fine.