dauntedfuture
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Posts posted by dauntedfuture
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click...boom... in a .30-06That's how I know there was an issue. Two rifles, same ammo. Surplus "4895" or was supposed to be. I have loaded all kinds of .223 combinations and I have never noticed an issue in .223. Some of the most accurate 55g FMJ that I loaded was with WOLF primers, the red-brass color ones, and H335. WSR are sufficiently hot for .223. The only slam fire in a .223 I ever had was with a REM 6.5 so I don't use those at all.
Yes, a chronograph will help identify if there is a powder/primer compatibility issue; if the ES is very high, that's an indicator. Of all calibers I have reloaded I only had an issue with .30-06 and standard primers and .40 with W231 and standard primers. I tried SR primers and no more issues...I also ran out od WW231 right after that so go figure.
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It will say FC or FEDERAL on the bigger stuff. There is nothing dangerous about it, the primers might fall out though.
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For what its worth... I am not a fan of "club rules" for ANY kind of competition. I have many kinds of shooting and every time I have shot a match with "Club rules" I have been disappointed. In recent years the sport of three gun has made great strides to make things more main stream with less variation from match to match. With a few exceptions, most all major matches use 3GN or FNH rules for the matches. This provides a good foundation for shooters and RO's. The big exception that I can think of is BRM, and the rules varied little from FNH expect for magazine capacity and SG tube capacity.
I have found that when clubs attempt to make "club Rules" they are inventing a solution in need of a problem and would be better suited with using FNH rules, and if/when required a well written stage description for that stage. I have also found some "Club rules" to me catch-me-F***-me" rules that only the club members know. Many other times I have noted that club rules attempt to "level the field for new shooters" and have rules like, "No more than 5 SG rounds" or "20 rounds in a magazine max." etc. I don't think this does much for the future of the sport and sets these competitors up for failure if and when they go and shoot a big match.
My goal as the MD in my last club, when I ran IDPA matches, which I no longer shoot, was to create a match that was challenging enough for most, not too hard for all with stages that were properly set up. I wanted experienced new-to-club shooters to shoot a proper and well run match.
In summary: There are existing rules out there that are well recognized, pick one and use those.
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just don't reload federal brass, it is very soft. You can reload it 1x or so, but the primers will open up quick. Not sure what brass the AE is loaded in.
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you don't need to worry about it in .223 unless your going to shoot in -20F weather. I have loaded countless 10's of thousands of .223 with all kinds of primers without any issues. The only reloading primer issues I have had were in .30-06 that needed a magnum primer to light the surplus stick powder I was using. Best accuracy usually comes with mild primers, not hot ones.
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Depends on which one you get, most hot have elevation adjustments and are intended for a zero at one range. The Army tells you to zero your BUIS same as your optic or 300M.
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On a related topic, what do the 3GN rules say about shoot through paper to paper.....provided it was possible?
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I used to shoot a Wilson barrel, not sure if that's Wilson arms. If it is, they made the barrels for eagle arms among other back in the day and they are button rifled. I suppose provided its a 1-7 16" to 18" it will work fine but your barrel life might be a little shorter than some of the other barrels out there. My three gun rifle currently wears a Daniel Defense barrel; they are CHF and should last a little longer. Rainer arms has a money back guarantee that looks quite attractive on one of their 18" SPR barrels.
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Looks like the case on the right was loaded a l little hot. I have had the same thing depending on the primers. The only slam fire I ever had was with rem 6.5's, I never used them again. This was a great thread to read. When shooting NRA HP you simply drop the round in the chamber and slam the bolt; I don't know of any issued with a proper rifle or ammo to date. On the M1A/M14, you needed to load the round into the magazine then release the bolt because of the floating firing pin.
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I tried a .22 conversion in a 14.5" 5.56 gun I have. That happened to me too, leading so bad I could not get a snake down the bore. I called CMMG and they said to use standard ammo, not the high velocity stuff. I would have expected better with a real .22 upper but who knows. Clean with some solvent and brush things out then try again with different standard velocity ammo. If that does not work, then try lapping the bore, you should not have to "Fix" factory barrels like that.
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FGGM is darn good ammo and it will be hard to beat that. DO NOT RELOAD the new federal brass, it is very very soft. Stay away from the Privi bullets, they don't shoot well. The 168 BTHP is an overall good bullet but its old technology. The new "better bullet" replacement would be the 175 BTHP, you can load it almost as fast and the ballistics are better, out of a 22" barrel you can keep them supersonic at 1000 yds, not so with the 168. With that said I would try some Sierra 150 BTHP match bullets if your shooting 500 or less, the profile is the same as 168's with a shorter shank; they will likely shoot as well with less recoil. This aside, I would error on the side of accuracy and function over attempting to hot-rod the .308 like in a .308 30" barrel palma gun. Your real velocities will be slightly less than what's in the books with your shorter barrel but you will likely not see a difference until you get past 500 yds.
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I would just clean it before you go and shoot it the first time. Its likely a button rifled barrel so all that you might accomplish is smoothing out the tool marks from the reamer. For what its worth, I just go and shoot after cleaning on all my LR NRA highpower guns. 6.5x284 barrels only last so long.
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I don't think that there is much a difference between the standard flat top uppers out there. You want to make sure it matches your barrel feed ramps. Most Barrels have M4 feed ramps as do most barrels. I have some that are mismatched and I have had no problems to date. If you want something non-standard then you will have to look around, there are some you can get without FA to save weight, and some that are thicker.
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For what its worth, I did some math on my rifle with the recoil generated on a calculator. Keep in mind this is "standard ammo", and I cant remember the units of recoil calculated but it does not matter 77g@ 2700fps = 5.5, 55@fps 3100 = 4.5 and 40@3200fps = 3.5 so there is quite a difference there. I am confident that the lighter bullets work the comps better than the 77's. The difference between my 40g and 77g loads is significant.
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Hi there. I'm not quite clear on what you are saying, and provided this is all with the same ammo.... I think you are saying that it TOOK 8 clicks with the STANDARD carrier, buffer and spring and not it takes the SAME 8 clicks with a lightweight carrier and light buffer. IF you went from brand XXX barrel to the 18" spr barrel then you are not comparing apple to apples as barrel to barrel, there is quite a bit of difference. I am not sure how much the previous system weighed compared to the new bolt, carrier and buffer; if you weighted ORIGINAL system and compared that with the NEW SYSTEM you would have a better idea. With all that said, provided there is less mass in the new system you should have less mass moving back and forth.
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I might take a look at a few things. 1. Measure your twist rate, you should be fine with 69's in a 1-8, but I would verify that 1-8 is what it is. 2. not all blemished bullets are the same depending on who sells them so I would try some real sierra 69's and see what happens before you go much further. 3. Pull one of your 69s and check the base, you might be damaging the bullet base if you are not chamfering the cases or are under sizing the cases. 4. Make sure you check the parallax on your scope.
Back in the day 23.5g 748 and 69 sierras was a popular NRA HP load so I think its Scope, barrel or reloading process.
Try to load some 55 FMJs and see if they shoot close to the factory stuff.
What do your groups look like? All vertical can be high ES/SD, all horizontal could be wind but at 100 that's unlikely, two separate groups on target: what optics are you using, check parallax on your scope to make sure its correct. There is a possibility that the powders in the PMC ammo is not compatible with the 748, but that's unlikely. Provided everything is working and under ideal conditions, sorting brass will help with ES and SD. You don't need to weight ball powder. Concentricity will have some effect but unless you have gross run out its not a likely contributor. There are some other things and without barrel MFG etc we don't have a more to go on.
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It's likely that you are already aware, but if you put one on your rifle then your shooting open.
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I will start with .003 neck tension, or loaded round .003, so I guess that's .0015 depending on how you look at it. I also use a lyman M die to slightly open up the edge of the case mouth. I think this smooth's out the transition and allows you to get adjust for more neck tension without a concern for damage to the boat tail. Truth be told, I have not been messing with neck tension all that long. I have been doing everything else for some time now. Last summer I got some Redding bushing dies and started testing with different bushings to see how that effected ES, and to a lesser extent SD. I also started cleaning up the necks on my brass. I was doing all this for my .308 Palma gun which has a generous 7.62 chamber so some of this is likely a mute point. In the limited testing I was able to do before it got cold and me deploying, I noted that turning necks and playing with the tension effected ES/SD, but I was not seeing a real effect on accuracy. This stands to reason as I have a 7.62 chamber. Preliminary testing was all done with surplus 4895 which is on the slow side and I was not getting the velocity I needed.
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You also need to take a look at your ES numbers when your testing ammo. 5 shot numbers will tell you something, 10 will tell whats closer to the truth. 50 Fps at 600 Yds is on minute I think. 50 FPS at 1000 is like 2 MOA or so with .308, you can check in a ballistic program. Provided you are weighing brass and powder, a high ES can be an indicator of many things which would require a long discussion. Seating depth effects neck tension as there is more bullet to case contact. In many cases this can produce more consistent results because the case generates more pressure and a more efficient burn prior to letting go of the bullet. This can also have to do with the primers, a hot primer can push the bullet right out of the case if your neck tension is low. Getting ES for a 10 shot group below 25 FPS usually requires lots of hard work and experimentation.
For what its worth: I use 5 shot groups to work up with powder charges and .002 off the lands with -.002 neck tension or so with, trimmed, weight sorted cases and weighed powder charges. I work up in .5g to make sure I can get the velocity I need and check groups and ES while i'm at it. This gives me some good indicators. Provided I get the velocity and groups that I need and ES is not extreme ill work on seating depth and or neck tension the next go around with the designated charge. Once I'm getting 25 FPS ES for 5 shot groups and 1" at 200 yds I stop development and verify with a 10 shot group or two. This all takes about 50 rds or so. In .308 this is not too hard on a barrel, im a little more selective on 6.5x.284. RL 15, N135 and Varget have all worked for me in .308. In 6.5x.284 its H4350 or H4831SC.
For what its worth this is what I used to get my NRA High master long range card and shoot a 990 / 1000 in a LR regional and a few 200-12x at 1000 with a scope and a sling.
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Military ammo has a tar sealant. Not sure where to get it or why you think you need it. Neck tension will keep moisture at bay.
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Make sure you get some lube on the inside of the necks. I highly recommend that with .308 you opt for a die that has a carbide expander ball as well. With .223 you can get by if for some reason you don't get a lubed case, .308 is not quite the same. If you want to you can tumble the lube off the loaded ammo but then you are handling lubed cases when you trim them. I suggest the Dillon spray lube; I throw the cases in a Tupperware bucket and spray and shake a few times, let sit and load away.
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You are also going to want to make sure that all the proper components for your hand guard are in place as well before you send it off or weld it on. I suggest a test build at home to make sure it all works out.
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Adding to the fun: I have shot several major, NRA LE and minor matches that specify cruiser ready and I have yet to see it defined in those rule books. Its a point of contention because "everyone knows cruiser ready" varied from stage to stage.
I don't know how the military does it with the .308
in Precision Rifle
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Thanks for the numbers and a good sample size too. What kind of press was that on? I have been loading my LR stuff on a 550 and never checked those numbers against the same dies on a RCBS.