dauntedfuture
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Posts posted by dauntedfuture
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I cant say that I have ever loaded pistol ammo for my 9mm or .40 that did not shoot well in my pistols so accuracy has not been a problem. I will pick a powder and based on what the book numbers are for velocity, ill pick a load in the middle and go up and down .2g. The alternative is if I read another guys load, and the book says its safe ill try it and +/- .2g and chronograph velocity. My goal is to load to 130 or 170 PF. I will assess function, smoke and perceived recoil. I load 147g FMJ in 9mm and 180 coated lead in .40 so bullet selection is not much of an issue. The OAL for the 9mm has to fit and run in a 2011 and M&P and the OAL for the .40 is for an STI so its a little long.
Provided I make PF, perceived recoil and smoke are my paramount issues.
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Do yourself a favor and buy a 650. I used to have a LNL. The powder system is what did that press in. The powder bar would stick in the up position and I got a few rounds loaded without powder in a batch. I never had this with a Dillon powder system as there is that powder link arm thing. Grated I did not have a powder lock out die for the hornady..
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There are many other options out there other then Berry bullets; I would go with another bullet. While your tests are not scientific I don't think the press has anything to do with your issues. Provided you are using all the same components and your dies are all set up to yield the same dimensions in both presses is that one press might have a little better run out then the other and one powder system will be more consistent then the other. I believe that when you set the SDB up you applied more crimp then you had before.
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I have several lowers and I don't think that I can tell a difference. The finish on a few is more matte and others are a little more black then grey. The only one that I have that's any different is the Tactical Innovations lower. It has a set screw to hold in the rear take down buffer retaining pin and spring as well as a rubber bumper in the back of the lower to assist in slop elimination. I think at the time it was 100.00, now there are so many on the market ill go with what ever is cheep.
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step 1. Clean barrel on a new rifle to remove oil etc. Step 2. Load and shoot. Don't waste your time and or ammo. You have 1200-1400 shots before that barrel is toast; make them count.
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I have shot everything from 40g bullets to 82g in a 20" 1-8 service rifle barrel and a 12.5 1-7". so it can all be done with little detriment to accuracy. More has to do with bullet construction then weight: you can shoot a 40g BT bullet in a faster twist then you can a 40g SP bullet. If you over spin a bullet it can come apart. With the quality of barrels we are shooting you will see little difference in accuracy between a 55g bullet in a 1-12 and a 1-7 barrel. If we were shooting bench rest, yes there is a difference. light bullets in fast twist barrels are a common misconception and many NRA service rifle shooters find that a 52-53g Match bullet will outshoot their 69-80g match bullets on a 100yd reduced range and these are in 1-7 to 1-8 20" service rifle barrels (douglas, Krieger, Wilson etc.)
The "book" will tell you a 1-9 is good for up to 69g bullets but I have a 1-9 match rifle bolt gun that will shoot 80's great at 600. You will commonly find that you can get a 1-9 to shoot 77's at close range but they sometimes start to tumble at 600 yds.
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For what its worth I started shooting NRA highpower when I was 14. I started with an M14. When I shot standing, by front foot lifted off the ground. I am always encouraged when I see young shooters at the range and in my attempt to give back, I have helped several get into shooting. Quite a bit depends on the youth in question in terms of physical and mental abilities. Nothing is more discouraging then getting sent home for unsafe conduct and there is zero room for "He's a new shooter / junior / senior" when it comes to safety; we must treat everyone the same.
I would have to say that 13-14 is about the right age provided the shooter can handle the guns. With some coordination, the junior and a RO can stay behind as the last shooters on the stage and shoot at own pace with coaching etc. I have seen this done and it can and does work well so that everything flows along and the junior still gets to shoot and no one is waiting etc.
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Get a 650 or a 550. Save yourself the money that you will spend on the lee and regret after you play with a buddy's Dillon for a while. You can save a few bucks and find a used one.
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My buddy took a comp off a RRA upper without an issue. I would chuck the upper in a vice and try to turn off the comp and see what happens, it should come off without too much effort. It might be rock-set or green-Loctite on but I doubt it.
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The Dillon swager or a cutter is a good way to go. For years I used a hornady crimp removing cutter-thing. You chuck it in a drill and go to town. It is easier and faster then a swager is and they run about 8.00
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What powder are you using? I think you will do better with as fast of a powder as you can go. Years ago Bull's-eye was and still is the go to for .38 special target loads. its also likely that those are soft bullets intended for very low velocity and you might be pushing them a little bit. I Shot lead in a 9mm, .40 and .45 for years without issues. I shot hard lead in .38 as well. I now shoot mostly jacketed or coated bullets for anything other then practice. Almost no matter how you slice it shooting lead will much your cylinder up in a wheel gun. Someone make a special chamber brush or you can brush the chambers out one at a time. So, try faster power with lighter charges and I think the powder will burn a little better.
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I debated between an eagle, edge and 2011 tactical. I went with the tactical gun for no other reason then I might shoot a night match or a stage where you can mount or hold a light. It also looks cool.
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You are going to need some lube unless you coat the bullets.
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When you find that loaded ammo is not fitting in a gauge you need to find out where the problem is; sizing, expanding, seating or crimping. size a few cases and try them in a gauge. I think that you will find that you were sizing enough with the old die. Now expand and seat bullet and take the bell out of the case but don't crimp and make sure the bullets are seated so that they will chamber, this might be too long for your gauge but ok for your barrel. Provided this is all ok, now crimp, or should I say remove the bell on the mouth. Too much bell or too much crimp can cause a bulge in the case. Those hornady HTP bullets have a bearing surface that's far forward and you have to seat them deep for them to fit in a gauge. A lee factory crimp die also helps at the end, especially if you are using lead bullets as it kind of sizes/ crimps the whole case and bullet at the same time.
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Having been to Iraq and Afghanistan ill provide the following comments: If I had a choice of any optic in the 1000.00 to run when/if I go back I would go with the Leupold Mk4 1.5-5. If I had more money I would consider the Vortex 1-6x. I have a MK6 on order and I would be tempted to take that based on the Leupold reputation. I ran a Leupold for years in 3 gun with the SPR reticle, I would get the other reticle with the BDC. I'm now running a vortex 1-6 on my 3 gun rifle and Ill have the MK6 to play with when I get back. Make sure you have a good mount, like a Larue so that you have the option of changing out the optic.
Commenting on the MK4: you have the ability to dial for range on the BDC dial so you can be POA/POI and not use the BDC. In a case where you are in a SBF position it would be easier to use the center of the reticle then the hold over points and its easy to return that scope to zero. You loose a little versatility with the 1.5x over say a 6x vortex. The MK4 is smaller and lighter.
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I put a Safariland case in the SKB golf club bag. SKB will send you at no cost TSA locks that are a direct replacement for the locks on the case.
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The pigtail is older technology. It will do almost the same thing as an adjustable gas block, I would get an adjustable gas block. You don't need both.
- I will also be running a sales 7.62 on this.
I don't know what a sales 7.62 is.
Will the suppressor their a monkey into this wrench as well?
- I have no idea what you are saying here.
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If you would like to save yourself some time and effort: with an M1A, buy one box of federal gold medal 168 or 175g ammo and shoot it. If that will not group send rifle to gunsmith. M14's are hard to get to shoot, even factory new rifles. With the M14/M1A there is a heck of a lot more to it then just a good barrel.
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Don't worry what the calibers say, its an arbitrary reference measurement. Best case is get brass fired from your rifles and measure both of them. Get a reference with the calipers. to set up dies don't pass the same brass through the die, use a new-fired piece each time. Size the brass and measure, and adjust until you have set back the shoulder .002 or so on the shortest chamber brass. This way you can use the same brass in both rifles. Alternatively, if you don't have calipers, size, adjust and size until you can close the bolt. Size 5 pieces of brass, make sure they all work and lock the dies in. Depending on which bolt gun you have your semi auto chamber might be smaller. It is best to set aside brass for each rifle is possible and have a FL die for each rifle. Provided you have done things right the sized brass will drop into a case gauge. Think of the bottom step of the gauge as "min spec" and the top ridge as "max" and your rifle chambers are somewhere in the middle. A little over sizing will not hurt. With an undersized case you will not be able to close your bolt in a bolt gun or cases will stick in the semi auto and mimic pressure issues.
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I have not handled one of these variants of the Armalite rifles. I will say that I won one of these rifles as a junior shooter years ago at Camp Perry in 1998-1999, it was the first rifle I won. Is was one of those weird ban-guns with the perma-break on the front. I was happy to have the rifle. I traded the upper for a NM variant. That rifle shot OK even though there was a ring / bulge in the barrel between the front sight base and the muzzle. Years later I bought a 24" Armalite barrel for a varmint gun and it had borderline excessive headspace, I shot it and it still worked.
I am thrilled that more MFGs are putting out "suitable" factory rifles for people to choose from, it cant be a bad thing and it might be more palatable as a competition rifle with competition in the name then in that evil military configuration.
Colt has the CSR 1516 that does not look too bad and is 750.00 from cheaper then dirt at the moment if you are looking for a rifle. You would be hard pressed to put a rifle together for 750.00 but it can be done.
I think that you are going to find a few things that you want to change or replace on almost any rifle out there but you need to shoot it a little first to find out what.
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I have a JM and like it quite a bit. The glass is great and the dot, while small does not get washed out. I would say that the JM reticle is closer to the minimalist BDC reticle as compared to something like the Leupold MK6. I would suggest for your consideration a leupold MK4 1.5-5, its a great scope and 1/2 of many of the others and its great glass. You really need to play with a scope on the range in dim light to see where the extra money spent on glass comes in.
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I have not shot a carbon fiber barrel, I don't own a carbon fiber barrel. With that said, 950.00 is going to keep me away from that barrel. I am confident that you will have the rigidity of a bull barrel with a light weight barrel. What I don't see are the weights of the barrels listed. I don't think that you are going to get more life out of one of these barrels then you will with a quality cut rifle barrel like Krieger. you are still burning lots of powder in short order down that throat and I don't think that your going to get an longer life with the carbon fiber wrapping. There are lots of good results coming from the lightweight barrels that are out there and run sub 400 like the Voodoo. For my money I would rather have 3-5 other barrels then I would like to have on 950 barrel. I think your weights will be comparable and accuracy requirements for three gun are not extreme. I would consider it a waste of a good barrel to turn a Krieger down for three gun use, but if I wanted to do so a custom thin profile barrel would be 400-450 out the door ready to install. In the high-power rifle Krieger is the gold standard even though there are many other good cut rifle SS barrels out there.
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What kind of pistol are you shooting? You said you are shooting DA, is this a DA only pistol or a DA/ SA pistol. If you are shooting a striker fired or 1911 type of pistol you will have a consistent trigger pull. In reality im doing a little more then "squeezing the trigger and waiting for the gun to go off.." etc. I am fairly aggressive on the trigger in order to get faster splits but my rounds generally end up in the middle. In order to do this you have to have a smooth and consistent trigger pull and it helps to have a grip so that you have a little daylight between your trigger fingers inside and the frame, if your finger is too deep, you can mash the gun down and to the left.
If you are shooting a DA/SA pistol, that's another thing all together. the DA to SA transition is tough. You have to put lots of effort and movement into making that DA shot and then when you transition to the SA, you mashing the trigger the same as the DA. Your grip is also possibly not going to be optimum for both the long DA and short SA trigger pulls. provided its only this DA to SA transition, that's the skill you need to work on.
If you have issues with doubles when your into SA, see all other comments..
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I started with a semi-modified stag 16" barreled M4 with a dot sight an 870 and a glock 19. I suggest that you go and shoot a few matches with what ever you have and then look at what you might want to get. Yes, you can spend lots on money getting three guns at once that are all top of the line, and you can spend much less with some good gear that will work well for you. I do suggest that you save your money when it comes to optics and get something name brand, don't go with any knock off stuff, it might look OK but it will not hold a zero. As far as a shotgun goes, you can find a used M1 or m2 for 800-900, that's the route I would take. If you have a 1100 or a 870 you can make it work now with just a magazine extension. A stock double stack 9mm pistol will work well, pick one. As far as gear goes, I used an uncle mikes belt for years with a few mag pouches...if you look you can find used stuff.
cheers
needing advice on first rifle build
in Rifle - Technical
Posted
I think you have a pretty good understanding of how things are coming together and in many ways I see and agree with where you are coming from. In any event, you will have a rifle that will go bang and by the time you learn to shoot it well and run and gun, you will have identified what you like and don't like and what works and what does not. In terms of accuracy the #1 item here is the barrel. Ill be anxious to see what happens with a 100 barrel so give it a whirl. In terms of interface with the target, a good optic is paramount. I good place to start is with an aimpoint. Its not magnified but they will hold a zero and get you started and you will be shooting against other non mag optic shooters. A quality trigger will go along way and a CMC is a good lower budget option to get started. In terms of what you are actually going to see, use and feel its always goo to invest in optics, barrels and triggers in that order. For the record I used a factory colt trigger for years shooting NRA highpower and did quite well.