dauntedfuture
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Posts posted by dauntedfuture
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Little blast goes down. Most up.
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I would just buy a brass catcher for the functioning semi auto and a gas buster ch. just saying.
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If you close off a gas block you still will get a little gas through. You could just move the block firearms and cover the port and remove gas tube. There are outfits that have bolts handkes machined into the right side of the bcg and appropriate uppers with slots cut in. If you went this route you would have a straight pull action. You could cut could off buffer spring but you still gave to have enough to strip rounds out of Mags. I suppose you could make more if a traditional bolt action with a 1/6 throw but why? Go straight pull route and Block gas or bolt action; you can find a reamer if you look or the sane places that make .338 whatever ar barrels could do a 700 barrel.
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Thanks for all the help. I called and talked with springfield and i sent the gun back to them. I have not experienced anything like this in my other 9mm,.40, .45 or .38 super 1911/2011 guns in the past. I wonder if they might have drilled a .45 firing pin hole and not the propper 9/38 super for the firing pin.
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Its the factory recoil spring, what ever that is and its not overly light or worn out, and i believe that i put in a 12 or 14 lb mainspring.
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its not ammo. factory and hand loads that bearley make PF; SOLO 1000 and 147 FMJ.
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It's got a nice sharp edge.
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My nearly new Springfield loaded 9mm 1911 is having problems. Material is being shaved from the back of the primer and its blocking the firing pin. It's consistent after 6-7 rds or so. Factory and mild hand loaded ammo. You can't see firing pin indentation on back of primers, it's filled with material. Help please.
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Chamfer has nothing to do with set back. 155 is quire heave for .224 bullets. I doubt that your inside diameter is .202 or .203, you would not be able to get the bullets in there. In general the OD on your loaded ammo is .224+ 2x the neck wall thickness. You size the brass so its about .002-.004 under size for a SEMI AUTO, so that's .220-.222. With a Bolt gun you can get away with .001 under if you like. Crimping does effect neck tension, it adds to it. Pull a bullet with and without crimp and you will see that crimp=more.
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sooo. I'm pending promotion in two matches. What does this mean? I have received no emails or anything after entering.
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Take a look in any handbook. there are plenty of 125g loads. Keep powder faster than 4895 burn rate. If you have cases that come out looking black then you are not getting a good seal and need a faster powder.
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I'm most cases you just need to trim brass once after the first firing fur ar type rifles.
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Keep the chamber and barrel extension area clean and keep putting lube into and on the bcg. Mist lube works well to include CLP or motor oil. Use a good copper solvent every 500 rds when you throughly clean bcg. To do so scrub it with hoppes. Nothing needs to be white glove clean. If you're shooting reloads make sure you're brass us clean.
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I have hornady dies bump the shoulder back more than most other dies. Shoulder bump is different than small base and possible different. Make sure you are getting lube I. The necks and or using a carbide button as you can stretch the beleass back out. I'm working through 1k of mg fired .308 and its a bear.
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24g of tac, rl15, h4895 or varget will work with 52-80g bullets.
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Some very basic research will yield a place to start. I like solo 1000 and 180 coated lead bullets that just make major power factor WAP is slower and was designed to produce more gas to work comps better. I gave not tried it but I doubt it's well suited to .40 uspsa loads as I expect it will shove a bit more then a faster powder will.
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With mixed brass 50-60 fps ES is quite possible. Lead build up can contribute to pressure and velocity. Yes, you get some lead with bbi bullets. It's weird.
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But new lapua brass. Only shoot it out of one gun. Weight sort, trim and shoot. FL size each time. Brass makes more of a difference then dues. Most all benchrest dies are about the same. I like Forster and redding dies.
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Just about all .223 brass is the same quality until you get into the lapua or Norma brass. I should think its good stuff. If you reload it with good dies and have small runout then the necks are consistent. If it weighs close to the same case to case then the weight is consistent and that's good too. If you can reload it multiple tones and the primers stay in then its hard, unlike federal, and good for reloading.
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More = better. Most powders will work ok for both. Find one that works best with 77s and something that's ok with the 55s. You're looking for 2600 fps or do with a 16-18" barrel.
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I started on a rcbs press. Until its worked out work with one case on the press at a time. Make sure you have safe charges of powder with appropriate load. If you can cycle your sized cases in your rifle and they are trimmed load and shoot.
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I have to assume light is 55 and heavy is 77 as you don't specify. Most anything close to h4895 will work. 24g Rl 15 will work with 55-80 bullets just fine. Slower powders like varget and rl15 will give better velocity with 77 then 2230/748/h335 will. Check powder burn rates a d go from there.
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You're going to need 1 1/8 oz at 1250 fps or better to work the gun. Look for brass caps. You can experiment to see if your gun will run light loads with heavy gas ring; you will get less recoil. Low recoil slugs and mild buckshot are mandatory. Stay away from Winchester cheap ammo with aluminum cap, it's crap.
223/556 Chrono Data with AR COMP Powder
in Rifle/Shotgun
Posted
1" with a colt HBAR barrel is about as good as it gets most of the time. I found that my old colt hbar shot much better with the 69's than 55's. Hornady 68's take up more internel volume compared to Sierra 69s when seated to the same depth. Nosler 69s are about the same as sierras with a little less BC. I would look at your primers and if you are not using rem 7 1/2s then give them a try as i have found that groups are much better with them and VAR or RL 15 than most other primers.