[Attaching a flashlight to a Clark carbon fiber handguard]

Buy a rail section for the jp rails. Drill two small holes and you're all set. Mount and lock tight in place. A 1" qd ring on a surefire g2 makes a nice set up all for about 100.00

[My first experience loading 308 for an AR-10]

If you're getting 1moa 10 rd groups and good sd and ES then I'd stop there and call it good. There is simply not that much else you need to do for a ln ar10 rifle. Some are more finicky about cycling properly but varget and 175s should be well within the proper pressure curve for the gun. Don't hot-rod in a .308 gas gun like you might in a bolt gun.

[Barrel questions]

Barrel length has nothing to with accuracy. Longer barrels will give you more velocity at longer ranges and as a result shoot flatter with less wind drift. Most benchrest barrels are on the short and fat side of things. If you go with a shorter than 16" barrel then you will need to SBR the gun or pin on a comp. I'm not sure I'd buy that any gun will keep 1moa after 60k rounds. I'd gave to see the test to believe it. 10-15k possibly, not 60k.

[May start tumbling loaded rounds to find loose primers]

I think it's more likely you missed priming a few. If you are not using carbide dies then get one and do without the lube. I have missed priming some too. I have never had a primer come out of a .223 case in the tumbler full of loaded ammo. 9mm major is hot but.....

[Talk me out of buying a small base sizing die]

Worst case you will work you're brass and wear it out quicker. Possibly loss if some accuracy. You should not need SB dies.

[hornady LNL vs Dillon 550 or Dillon 650]

I got a 550 when I was 15. I have had it for years. I had a LNL for three weeks. I sold it and bought a 650 after the powder system failed on me. I bought a 650. 550 and 650 are great! 650 slightly more complicated than 550. The 650 is faster but not that much better then 650.

[Qs on reloading .223 on 550]

I would size, trim and deprive on the first pass on the 550. Then tumble to remove lube. Second pass load the ammo. If you have an inside burr you can use a Lyman M die in station 1 and run through the rest to load on round two through the press.

[Which dies should I try to find for loading precision .308?]

For the money foster does with a carbide button work well. The bushing systems from foster and redding are a nice upgrade if you are not getting good results. Another option is to send fl size die back to foster and have the neck reamed out a little. I'm using a redding bushing die and standard redding seating die and getting 5 shots touching at 200 yds with my palma gun. Loaded on a dillon 550.

[How to handle new brass?]

Neck or fl size and possible chamfer. Then load.

[Reloading for the M1A]

Do some basic research on reloading first. M14 specific; keep powder close to 4895 or 4064 burn rates. Full length and trim brass each time, seat to magazine length and don't load bullets above 180g. Keep velocity moderate. And basic research will tell you 40-42g 4895 with a 168 is as standard of a load as there is for m14.

[Let's talk about precision reloading]

_{There is quite a bit you can do to effect the on target performance of the ammunition you load. Most of the time we do things to cases to eliminate the possibility of inconsistency as opposed to really helping accuracy. We sort cases by weight to find that one thats too heavy or light etc and turn necks if we have a tight chamber or have bad brass. If the runout on your loaded ammunition is good then you likely don’t need to look for special match or benchrest dies. If your runout is excessive its most likely your brass but BR dies can help. I think one of the most overlooked items is making sure that all the brass is sized the same, preferably new brass or stuff that’s been fired in that rifle. Inconsistent sizing can manifest as a bolt that’s hard to close or inconsistent velocity over a chronograph. You can measure off the shoulder to base of case and sort that way or, cull out the brass that’s hard to close the bolt on in the gun. With a semi auto you will not be able to tell. My best advice is play with a known load of powder and bullets and be realistic about your gun and your skills as a shooter. As a 1K highpower shooter I’m looking for 1MOA 10 shot groups with small ES (25 fps) and ill call it good.}

_{Dont crimp your bullets.}

_{If your ES is high try another primer.}

_{Make sure your brass is all sorted by weight and trim it all to the same length.}

[223 Load]

23-24.5 of varget with 77's will do it.

[223 trimmed lenght]

I trim to 1.755 on a girud with every piece of brass every time. This way im not trimming as much as i would to get to 1.750. It does make a difference in time and effort over 1000's of pieces of brass.

[223 brass sizing problems]

sometimes on brass thats been fired a few times the base of the case will expand a little. If 5 of 5 sized cases will drop into and not stick into your chamber then there is likely not an issue. You cae measure the length from the base of the case to the shoulder. On .223 a sized .308 case over the .223 case will work if you dont have propper tools.

[New Barrel with burr, is it a problem.]

This is very common and not an issue. Go and shoot and dont worry.

[Loading for better accuracy]

At the end of the day, seating depth only matters so much. The combination of bullet, powder and primer (primer less than the others) is what matters. extreme SD and or ES is an indicator that your powder and primer are not working all that well together. Most of the time flat base bullets shoot better than BT bullets. Without the rest of the information about your guns its hard to know what is the issue if there is one. Do some research on some of the "standard accuracy loads out there" and try them in your guns; most factory guns are 1-2" MOA at best for 10 shots at 100 yds. The sierra book lists several goos loads. Sorting brass will help quite a bit, weighing brass helps too, uniforming flash holes and primer pockets help as does making sure the trim too lengths are all the same. Try 24g RL 15 with 55-77g bullets seates to mag length in sorted and trimmed brass and see what happens.....

cheers.

[AR-308 1:14 Twist Barrel, does anybody make one?]

1. There is no reason for a 1-14 in a .308. You will likley be limited to 125g bullets.

2. There is no advantage over a common 1-12 or 1-10 for 3 gun. If you were talking hunter bench rest then thats another story.

3. Krieger barrels makes .308 barrels from 1-10 to 1-18.

[Powder to target for 9mm 147gr]

Solo 1000 is great!

[WCC vs LC]

intersteing. If you look on the base of the cases that i have that came out of a box like that they say LC..... Federal did/does run the LC plant. Do not reload brass that has FC on the base; federal brass is soft.

[small base die/.223]

dies will say SB if they are small base dies. Some dies will size more than others though.

[CFE vs RL 15]

I think they are both the same or very close to it. Hogden has burn rate info on their web page.

[Can't use XM-193 on MGM targets?]

M193 is a 55 fmj bullet at about 3200 fps. There is nothing special about it. M855 has a steel tip penetrator at 3100 all from 20". You can load 55 fmj to M193 specs without an issue. XM193 is the same as M193, its just the contract over run stuff. Same specs or possibly slightly off spec with regard to cyclic speed for some weapons.

[Ruger Flip-Up Sight - Install on Versa Max Pictures]

Where is the best place to get the 10/22 mod done?

[Nosler vs Sierra]

BC on sierras is a little better. Noslers are 20-25% less expensive. Both shoot about the same in my guns.

[Firearm sharing]

You would only have an issue if you use different SGs or different rifles for different stages. (i.e. dont use a rifle with a dot for the stage with close stuff and borrow the rifle with the scope for long stuff) Rules generally say something to the effect that you cant change sights, barrels uppers etc. so its along the same lines. I second the space the shooters out as well as having loaded magazines etc.