dauntedfuture
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Posts posted by dauntedfuture
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I bought some sierra seconds of 40g .224 BTs. I loaded them at starting loads with several powders: RL15, varget, 2230 and H335. They all shot well. Recoil is significantly reduced. I'm not sure id like to try knocking down steel at range with them. All this from a 1-8 18" DD barrel.
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Regarding shooting .308 at 1000, if you go the route of a factory rifle, and its a great way to start; the 168's are not a good bullet for 1000, go with the 175's. if your rifle will shoot them. Many of the factory .308 are 1-12 twist which might shoot 175's at 1000. You can also try the 155 palma bullets as they will usually shoot well in 1-10 to 1-13 barrels. Check your velocities and make sure you are over 1200 FPS when you get to 1000. .260 or most any of the 6.5's make great 1000 yd guns, 6.5x .284 still dominates NRA LR competition as far as I know. Its easier to get 3000 fps with 142's than .260 and with less pressure. Barrel wear is close. you would be loosing a little with a 6.5 creedmore at 1K but it will still work well with less recoil.
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If you look around you can find an old Ans. 54, 40X or 52 for about 1000. Ammo selection is a huge issue with a .22 when you approach and get past 100 yds. You will want ammo that is sub-sonic to start. The Wolf target ammo is quite good. 100 yds with a .22 is about like shooting 600 yds with a .308 if your shooting a small bore prone match or NRA highpower.
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To be clear, yes, more barrel will give you more velocity. Most of the ammo companies have done a good job with their component selection so that there is not much velocity gain / loss from 20-16" Barrels. Practically speaking, you are not going to see much difference in wind drift between a 77 at 2550 and 2700 fps, or about 4-6" in at 500 yds or so. So, if your not shooting past 300 yds or so you are not likely to see much difference between 2550 / 2700 (77) or 3050 / 3200 (55). If you are loading long 80g bullets in a 24-26" barrel you can milk a little more velocity with some of the slower powders in the long barrels. If I recall I was getting 2700 FPS with my 80's from a 20" and a buddy was at 2850 from a 26", or about 2" less wind drift at 600 yds which is a big deal in HP.
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There is some gain when you go from a 20 to a 24 or 26 and switch to a slower powder but its not all that much. You are likely not to see a practical difference between a 16" and 22" barrel other then some weight.
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The douglas and Shlien barrels will not last as long as some of the others. There are lots of barrels with good track records. Get a gunsmith to do the work that specializes in Long range NRA Highpower or sniper rifles etc. as there are special reamers that are used with the specialty bullets, not only the barrels. They should also true up the action. 6.5 CM and .308 are all on a short action, the 300 Norma magnum (good luck on brass) needs a long action and a .338 Lapua is an usually on a larger action.
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I suggest that you start with a Solid .308 Heavy varmint rifle and a good Leupold scope. Remington, WIN and Savage all make good guns. The Remington will give you more options down the road as far as a custom gun goes. Shoot that .308 barrel out, or when you think you need a better rifle you will be ready for a 6.5 CM or even better a 6.5x284. There is a separate class in a lot of these games for .308 guns so you are not really competing with the 6.5CM guys etc. Load up some Sierra 155 2156's and see if they shoot. If they don't work try the Sierra 175's. The Lapuas are even better. Get 100 pieces of Lapua .308 brass, some powder and go to town. Your going to need, or have access to a chronograph too, your will need 50 FPS or less ES for 600 yds or so.
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No one in the high power world that I knows messes with the truing up the upper receivers. Upper to lower fit does not make it shoot better but it does help keep the sights from moving around when your in position. A confidential source did tell me that if they ever have a gun that does not shoot well they try the barrel on another upper and it sometimes "fixes" the problem.
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needles to say I have shot lots and lots of .308 and other calibers at and past 1000 yds with great success. I will be the first to tell you that Army sniper rifles are not effective past 800M. the Specs were simply not there with the M-24 and M118. M118 LR preformed much better but many of the rifles were simply not capable of the accuracy required. The New SASWS also runs out of gas at close to 800M or so due to the shorter barrel and velocity of M118LR when shot out of it. There are lots of variables that play into this. I can tell you for a fact that the degradation of marginal ammunition from 800 to 900 and 900 to 1000 is significant. If your on the ragged edge of staying supersonic at 800 or so, things start to fall apart at 900 and the wheels will come off at 1000.
I would suggest that a 3 round will not give you much information at all. Shooting a single 10 rd group will give you a much better potential of your rifles capability. I don't know much about your rifle but many of the factory HV rifles are closer to 1-1.5 MOA at best for 10 shot groups. Experience tells me that most posts of .25 groups from factory guns is simply not the case, sure it might happen once but not consistently.
There are a few things you can do that might help: Skim bed the rifle. take the action out and bed it into the aluminum action block. On many of these factory guns the actions are not all that well fitted to the stock and things are shifting around. Other things to check is the parallax on your scope, last is cronographing your ammunition. Without getting too much into it, if your velocities are erratic and your ES and SD is high, these are indicators of a combination that's not working well together; it does not tell you exactly what you need to change, but its an indicator that things are not happy inside your case. The effect is erratic harmonics on the barrel and bullet.
With all this said 40-42g RL15 or VARGET or H4895 with 168's or 175's should shoot well provided you do your part. If they don't group at 100 or 200 yds then its likely the bedding or you need a better barrel, and again expect 1-1.5 MOA at 100 Yds or so. Oh yea, most every LR shooter that I know is happy to get a 10 shot 1" group at 100 with low ES and SD and its tougher to get then you think with 2000+ custom target rifles.
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Will factory ammo cycle, if so then its a big indicator that its your ammo. If sized cases will cycle into and out of the rifle then your cases are sized enough. If loaded rounds will not then its something with your seating or crimping process that's causing a problem. I had some ammo that did the same kind of thing, shot and cycled fine but was a pain to get a loaded round out of the run; I simply did not size the cases enough. I have also crimped too low and it causes the shoulders to bulge out on the cases. Its unlikely, but if you see rifleing marks on your bullets then they are seated too long. I have also seen where in the case that a two piece reamer is used, one for the chamber and the other the throat, that the second one never made it into the barrel so there was a chamber and no throat, not a good combo.
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I have had barrels cryoed. I think your wasting your money. The idea behind a cut rifle barrel is that you don't induce stress into it, with A button you do. Cryo is not going to make a rifle that shoots 4+MOA shoot 1 MOA or so. Cryo might help a barrel shoot a little better not that much. There is something else wrong here, I recommend that you send the barrel back.
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I'm only referring to what parts are supposed to be in spec, like the upper notch. I am well aware of what parts we use in 3G.
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DMPS parts are not mil spec and are often out of spec. I would try filing out the upper a little. Alternatively you could but the barrel in the freezer overnight and tap it in in the morning with a rubber mallet.
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These are great scopes. I would look for a used one as there are several out there if you look and save some money. they are almost bullet proof and Leupold will fix them if there is an issue. For what its worth I liked by 1.5-5 almost as much as my vortex 1-6. I had the SPR reticle on the leupold and it still worked quite well. I like the ability to dial to range for the long distance short and the non-spr reticle is great.
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I would not spend another 100 to cryo and introduce another variable. I would send the barrel back after checking things over. Is it possible that something is loose when you put the barrel back on the rifle? Check the thing out from front to back and check the scope too. Could your parallax be off? As an easy check for the bore, clean the bore as well as you can and try pushing tight oiled patches down the bore and see if you can feel anything. the other option is to check with a bore scope. It complicates things that you did not test the barrel before you sent it off, but I should think that after checking the rifle over and testing with a few weights of bullets that Noveske and the dimple guy would stand behind their work.
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Is this thing legal for TO?
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I would look for a used Leupold 1.5-5 MK4 MRT. You can find them for about 700 used and its a great scope.
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there is no practical difference between 5.56 and .223. Some ammo marked .223 is hotter than some ammo marked 5.56 5.56 sounds more tactical for the mall ninjas.
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Who can do black nitride coating on a sti? About how much to coat the gun? What prep is required?
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The detonics cut refers to a cut in the slide. The rear sight is cut to move it further forward. Thus leave a recessed area behind the sight that makes cocking the hammer easier as well as making the sight less prone to snag.
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I want my magazines to lock open when they are empty in my 9mm STI but not with one round left. I had to shave a little notch in the front of the follower on one side to make it work. STI tubes, Grams guts and 2.5mm base plates, I should have gone with the 4mm bases.
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For what its worth I just pulled the trigger on a more basic custom IPSC/USPSA limited 5.4 sight tracker with rail and its running me 4.4K w. one mag.
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depending on the dies you could be crimping and not know it. Many rifle dies have a built in crimp so you can seat and crimp in one step. try adjusting your die higher and screw down the seater a little to compensate. I cant see the pics either.
223 brass sizing problems
in Rifle/Shotgun
Posted
I have found that sometimes the case gauges don't tell the whole truth. With several times fired brass, the case head will sometimes enlarge in diameter. The result is that the front of the rim will hang up a little on the case gauges. These same cases mic just fine in my RCBS case mic. Make sure you have plenty of lube on the cases and you still need some with Carbide .223 dies too. I can speak on press flex but I should think that the Dillon presses are sufficiently robust to resist deflection. If you don't get lube inside the cases, the expander ball can pull the shoulder out a little.