WayneBullock

You might want to check out Bud Decot's wesbsite. Decot has been making glasses for shooters and other sportmen for years, and has plenty of experience with exactly what you are talking about. I don't have the site address, but a search for Decot Glasses should find it. I think I have seen/read before about "reverse bifocals." In this situation, the "near" portions are actually on the top part of the lense and the "far" sections are on the bottom. This eliminates having to cock your head back to see the sites. Wayne

I am completely unfamiliar with these guns. Can someone tell me a little about them? They don't look like a 1911 clone. Are they more similar to a CZ? Thanks, Wayne

I have decided to gie this a try. I have noticed in group-shooting, the trigger control required with a revolver has help my semi-auto shooting, so hopefully, additional skills can carry-over (but that's another thread I guess . 1. Is there a prefered bullet/powder combo for major .357? 2. If I use 158's, can I stay with lead, or are the velocities still too fast requiring a plated/jacketed bullet? 3. I assume faster powders are still appropriate, but what does anyone else use? Thanks for the input. WayneB.

(I looked for info on this, but didn't find threads that dealt with this directly; please redirect if I missed any.) I have practiced drawing long enough to get a good time to first shot (for me), but I'm starting to have some problems. I have noticed that when I draw in matches, the front site is wobbling everywhere, and I have to wait for the site to settle down before I can see the first shot off. I don't notice this in practice, so I think it's nerves, but what to do? Should I practice fast draws more in dry-fire and live-fire practice, or do fewer reps? Or perhaps keep up the fast pace in practice and try to just be smooth in matches and let it happen? Any suggestions? Thanks, WayneB

A couple of questions: 1. Do/have you shot this one while sitting in the chair, or do you stand to shoot all three strings? 2. Where exactly is the fault line for this stage? For example, can you lean against the table for balance, or is that technically "grounding" yourself in front of the fault line? 3. How do you place your holster to make the draw easier from a seated position? Thanks, WayneB

If you are looking for lead without the smoke, you might check Precision Bullets (www.precisionbullets.com). I have shot these for almost two years now and have found them to be very clean (in the bore and in the bullet seating die) and very consistent. They have a moly-like coating over a lead bullet that really cuts the smoke (no external lube). I know they are hard and work great for limited, but as far as open-velocities, I've never tried them. WayneB

Unless you are loading a high-recoiling round (a real big-boomer) or something that is fed through a mag tube, you really don't need a true crimp. I can say without a doubt that accuracy will suffer with a tighter crimp than necessary (especially if you are using non-neck-turned cases). Also, be careful to not crimp too heavily - can lead to dangerous pressures. WayneB

I simply use a piece of velcro material around to gun and holster. Keeps me from bumping the gun out from behind. No sense in spending extra bucks for another holster if you like the 012. I think Barnhart makes a "walk through strap." Or he used to anyway. Might check that out. WayneB

Not trying to advertise or anything, but I shoot a P-16/40 with a bull from Dawson Precision in TX. It works well. Just out of curiosity, do bulls-eye pistol shooters mostly use bushings or bulls? Seems like I have seen most of the "accurate" pistol setups with bushings. Thanks, WayneB.

Thanks for the replies. Just a few more questions if you don't mind: 1. Why is the Python not used? Is there a durability issue or is the Smith just easier to find/gunsmith? 2. Are iron-sights used, or is everything through a dot now? 3. Can you recommend a dot/mounting system that is popular in Bianchi? Thanks again. WayneB

I recently inherited a Colt Python originally set up for PPC (38/357 cal). I know this revolver is a little heavy for IPSC, but I was wandering if it would be suitable to begin NRA pistol/Bianchi events? One more thing... It is setup to use speed-loaders. Are moon-clips availble for the python, and are they legal for NRA/Bianchi? Thanks for the information. WayneB

Hawkster, Your stance on the ends depends largely on your being right or left handed. For right (left) handed persons on post one (five), try standing with your feet virtually even across (toes lined up across the post) and body turned slightly inward toward the house. You should essentailly be close to the end of your range-of-motion for swinging to the right (left), since the furthest right target you could get is a straight-away. This also leaves 95% of your range-of-motion open to swing to the left (right) for the angles. Obviously, the other way around for the post five. I like to stand with my feet almost parallel with the side of the post (my right foot well behind the left). This leaves you shooting sort of across your body for straight-aways and lots of range-of-motion for the right angles. As far as points of hold, BE outlined very well what many consider to be the best. I do exactly as he says for a post one hold: Above the house on the left corner and my vision looking (softly - not starring but trying to see the first motion) under my barrel in the left corner of the house. As far as post five hold, I actually hold off of the right corner of the house, not above the corner as on post one, and look back toward the house to see motion. I am righted handed and have a harder time swinging away from my face/body and can catch up to the right angles a little better with my point of hold to the right of the house, about even with the top of the house. You might be more confortable shooting if you can practice on your own and setting the trap machine is a certain setting. When practicing, I often lock the trap machine into a hard left (or right) angle and shoot 5 from each post. Then lock the trap in center, shoot 5 from each post, then lock the trap in right (left) and shoot five from each post. Then shoot a regular 25 round. This will get you used to shooting 100 at a time as well. You can determine YOUR favorite point-of-hold this way easily. Wayne

I'm not sure if it still available, but 3-D Ammunition sold remanufactured rounds for really cheap. They claimed the brass was only 1-fired brass and made available several bullet weight/caliber combinations. Tried several boxes (about 2000 rounds total) in 9mm with great results (for the price). I would not plan on using these in a benchrest situation as I am sure they are not to the quality control as my own loads, but really hard to be for factory for the price. Wayne

Thanks youall. I shot it pretty well (for me) and everything felt good as I was shooting, just wanted to get yourall's take on the direction to shoot the strings. I didn't have to turn much to get setup on all the targets either, I am just trying to think of ways to shave all the extra time I can without rushing my shooting/seeing. Thanks Wayne

In shooting CM99-49 Speed-E-Standards last weekend, I saw two different strategies do well on this classifier. To save youall from having to look, it is as follows: 3X3 shooting box at 12ft from array; 6 IPSC targets in a straight line. In one string: draw, engage each target with 1 shot freestyle, reload, enagage each target with 1 shot freestyle, reload, engage each target 1 shot weak-hand. When deciding for myself which way to shoot the targets, I decided to start with the Left target and shoot L to R, reload, R to L, reload, L to R. I figured less time and wasted motion if not turning back to the Left target to begin each string. I saw several others do it the way I did and several others do it all L to R. How would youall shoot this one? Wayne

One thing I have found that works for me is actually having three bags...I carry two and leave one in the truck. I carry a range bag with the essentials for the shooting line and a few little things. The second one I carry is a separate little ammo bag (the Dillon dual compartment bag (~$25 or so)). This really helps even out the weight of the ammo and the range bag and it offers a great place to put empty brass so it doesn't have to go into the rangebag (and get everything else in there sandy/dirty). The third is just a tool box in the truck that I keep large parts that I might need and all that other stuff (rainsuit,etc....) you might just need sometime. Wayne (Edited by WayneBullock at 6:26 am on June 28, 2001)

I too have tried both VV N320 and Titegroup, both with 200 grn. precisions in my Limited gun. I cannot perceive an actual difference in the two powders loaded to comparable power factors. I have, however, stayed with the N320 due to the ease with which my powder measure thows a consistent charge. I would like to shoot the Titegroup since I can find it quite a bit cheaper, but the RCBS uniflow powder measure I use on my old RCBS Auto 4X4 (I know, I just haven't allocated the money to Dillon yet) does not throw consistent charges of the very fine powders. Wayne

Oops. I guess the underline doesn't work in the headings.

In this last published work of Hemingway, I found a quote that seemed to summarize my thoughts and actions regarding my developing a particular stage strategy. "I had been told by G.C. to use my common sense, if any, and that only shits get in trouble. Since I knew that I could qualify for that class at times I tried to use my common sense as carefully as possible and aviod shithood so far as I could." Taking G.C.'s advice, I have found that the common sense strategy of "just get to the shooting" works pretty d*mn good. Hemingway, Ernest. True at First Light. Scribner: NY (1999), p.113.

Kelly, I definitely swing through the target and break the shot at that time instead of establishing a lead, then the shot. If you are shooting American Trap or International Trap, that applies to every shot...except one. In American Trap, doubles shooting can be quite a different game. For instance, I shoot the right target first on all the posts. This is not too common; most people (right-handed) shoot the right target on posts 1-3, and shoot the left target on 4-5 first. I switched to the right target first all the way across the last year I was on the All American Team. I got my average pretty high that year using this technique. Doing this, however, meant that I had to trap the first target on 4 and 5 (set up where I was going to break the target just right and above the house and move my eyes back to the house to see the target as it left the house). That is about the only time the swing-through does not work. Interestingly, when I won the prelim doubles in my division at the Grand the last year I shot, it was not until I got back to my truck that I noticed that my front site on my doubles gun had come off in the case and I shot the entire match without it. Guess that shows how much I concentrated on the site. Wayne

See what youall think of this stage: 4 IPSC targets... T1 is 15yds from shooting box, offset to the left. T2 is 25yds, just off centerline on left. T3 is 25 yds, just off centerline to right. T4 is 15yds offset to right. Timed Fire / Best 6 paper / Time per string: 4.5 secs. On audible start signal: String 1: Engage T1 with six rounds weak hand. String 2: Engage T2 with six rounds freestyle. String 3: Engage T3 with 3 rounds, reload, 3 rounds. String 4: Engage T4 with 6 rounds strong hand. On a stage such as described above, what strategies would youall suggest. I shot this last weekend at Area4 and there were some pretty interesting scores from all levels of shooters. Wayne

Just finished a big match over last weekend. Shot right at 90% of points for the match...but slow. Do youall have any good drills for addressing target acquisition? I think this is where some of my wasted time is creeping in. Thanks, Wayne

I would be very interested to see the drill you mentioned earlier. I am just trying to get things clicking for me in this sport and I am finally realizing just how much time is "wasted" by not moving/seeing fast enough.

Over the last couple of practice sessions, I have really been trying to open up and visually accept everything that is going on with the gun/sites/me/etc... I have noticed a trend though. When transitioning from paper to steel (small white plates especially) I can clearly remember seeing a good site alignment before the gun fires, yet the steel plate is left standing. The only thing that I can think of is that I may be blinking as the gun fires. This would allow a site picture to chage at the most critical point and pull off target. I am not sure this is the case, but its the only think I can think of that would cause what looked like a good site alignment to produce a miss. Do youall have any suggestions to help teach myself not to blink, or any other thoughts on this problem? Thanks in advance. WayneBullock

I have signed up for some matches that require me to fly this summer/fall. What cases have youall used to fly with that have done a good job of protecting the pistols? Thanks for your help. Wayne