WayneBullock

You might want to check out Bud Decot's wesbsite. Decot has been making glasses for shooters and other sportmen for years, and has plenty of experience with exactly what you are talking about. I don't have the site address, but a search for Decot Glasses should find it. I think I have seen/read before about "reverse bifocals." In this situation, the "near" portions are actually on the top part of the lense and the "far" sections are on the bottom. This eliminates having to cock your head back to see the sites. Wayne

I am completely unfamiliar with these guns. Can someone tell me a little about them? They don't look like a 1911 clone. Are they more similar to a CZ? Thanks, Wayne

I have decided to gie this a try. I have noticed in group-shooting, the trigger control required with a revolver has help my semi-auto shooting, so hopefully, additional skills can carry-over (but that's another thread I guess . 1. Is there a prefered bullet/powder combo for major .357? 2. If I use 158's, can I stay with lead, or are the velocities still too fast requiring a plated/jacketed bullet? 3. I assume faster powders are still appropriate, but what does anyone else use? Thanks for the input. WayneB.

(I looked for info on this, but didn't find threads that dealt with this directly; please redirect if I missed any.) I have practiced drawing long enough to get a good time to first shot (for me), but I'm starting to have some problems. I have noticed that when I draw in matches, the front site is wobbling everywhere, and I have to wait for the site to settle down before I can see the first shot off. I don't notice this in practice, so I think it's nerves, but what to do? Should I practice fast draws more in dry-fire and live-fire practice, or do fewer reps? Or perhaps keep up the fast pace in practice and try to just be smooth in matches and let it happen? Any suggestions? Thanks, WayneB

A couple of questions: 1. Do/have you shot this one while sitting in the chair, or do you stand to shoot all three strings? 2. Where exactly is the fault line for this stage? For example, can you lean against the table for balance, or is that technically "grounding" yourself in front of the fault line? 3. How do you place your holster to make the draw easier from a seated position? Thanks, WayneB

If you are looking for lead without the smoke, you might check Precision Bullets (www.precisionbullets.com). I have shot these for almost two years now and have found them to be very clean (in the bore and in the bullet seating die) and very consistent. They have a moly-like coating over a lead bullet that really cuts the smoke (no external lube). I know they are hard and work great for limited, but as far as open-velocities, I've never tried them. WayneB

Unless you are loading a high-recoiling round (a real big-boomer) or something that is fed through a mag tube, you really don't need a true crimp. I can say without a doubt that accuracy will suffer with a tighter crimp than necessary (especially if you are using non-neck-turned cases). Also, be careful to not crimp too heavily - can lead to dangerous pressures. WayneB

I simply use a piece of velcro material around to gun and holster. Keeps me from bumping the gun out from behind. No sense in spending extra bucks for another holster if you like the 012. I think Barnhart makes a "walk through strap." Or he used to anyway. Might check that out. WayneB

Not trying to advertise or anything, but I shoot a P-16/40 with a bull from Dawson Precision in TX. It works well. Just out of curiosity, do bulls-eye pistol shooters mostly use bushings or bulls? Seems like I have seen most of the "accurate" pistol setups with bushings. Thanks, WayneB.

Thanks for the replies. Just a few more questions if you don't mind: 1. Why is the Python not used? Is there a durability issue or is the Smith just easier to find/gunsmith? 2. Are iron-sights used, or is everything through a dot now? 3. Can you recommend a dot/mounting system that is popular in Bianchi? Thanks again. WayneB

I recently inherited a Colt Python originally set up for PPC (38/357 cal). I know this revolver is a little heavy for IPSC, but I was wandering if it would be suitable to begin NRA pistol/Bianchi events? One more thing... It is setup to use speed-loaders. Are moon-clips availble for the python, and are they legal for NRA/Bianchi? Thanks for the information. WayneB

Hawkster, Your stance on the ends depends largely on your being right or left handed. For right (left) handed persons on post one (five), try standing with your feet virtually even across (toes lined up across the post) and body turned slightly inward toward the house. You should essentailly be close to the end of your range-of-motion for swinging to the right (left), since the furthest right target you could get is a straight-away. This also leaves 95% of your range-of-motion open to swing to the left (right) for the angles. Obviously, the other way around for the post five. I like to stand with my feet almost parallel with the side of the post (my right foot well behind the left). This leaves you shooting sort of across your body for straight-aways and lots of range-of-motion for the right angles. As far as points of hold, BE outlined very well what many consider to be the best. I do exactly as he says for a post one hold: Above the house on the left corner and my vision looking (softly - not starring but trying to see the first motion) under my barrel in the left corner of the house. As far as post five hold, I actually hold off of the right corner of the house, not above the corner as on post one, and look back toward the house to see motion. I am righted handed and have a harder time swinging away from my face/body and can catch up to the right angles a little better with my point of hold to the right of the house, about even with the top of the house. You might be more confortable shooting if you can practice on your own and setting the trap machine is a certain setting. When practicing, I often lock the trap machine into a hard left (or right) angle and shoot 5 from each post. Then lock the trap in center, shoot 5 from each post, then lock the trap in right (left) and shoot five from each post. Then shoot a regular 25 round. This will get you used to shooting 100 at a time as well. You can determine YOUR favorite point-of-hold this way easily. Wayne

I'm not sure if it still available, but 3-D Ammunition sold remanufactured rounds for really cheap. They claimed the brass was only 1-fired brass and made available several bullet weight/caliber combinations. Tried several boxes (about 2000 rounds total) in 9mm with great results (for the price). I would not plan on using these in a benchrest situation as I am sure they are not to the quality control as my own loads, but really hard to be for factory for the price. Wayne

Thanks youall. I shot it pretty well (for me) and everything felt good as I was shooting, just wanted to get yourall's take on the direction to shoot the strings. I didn't have to turn much to get setup on all the targets either, I am just trying to think of ways to shave all the extra time I can without rushing my shooting/seeing. Thanks Wayne

In shooting CM99-49 Speed-E-Standards last weekend, I saw two different strategies do well on this classifier. To save youall from having to look, it is as follows: 3X3 shooting box at 12ft from array; 6 IPSC targets in a straight line. In one string: draw, engage each target with 1 shot freestyle, reload, enagage each target with 1 shot freestyle, reload, engage each target 1 shot weak-hand. When deciding for myself which way to shoot the targets, I decided to start with the Left target and shoot L to R, reload, R to L, reload, L to R. I figured less time and wasted motion if not turning back to the Left target to begin each string. I saw several others do it the way I did and several others do it all L to R. How would youall shoot this one? Wayne