Macca

.40 cal mags.... but I should say....I wouldnt convert the 97 to 357....i'd get the .40 cal 75 and convert it

.40 cal mags....

Hey guys, A few questions to people who know about the CZ's I'm looking at getting one but want to do something a little different. In Australia the govt basically banned everything that is over .38 in bore diameter unless you go through a hell of a lot of hoops for special permits and such which you can't get just for something like ipsc. So what I'm wondering is rather than just owning yet another 9mm gun.... has anyone converted a CZ 97 to a 38/45 or has anyone converted the 40 cal cz to a 357 sig? and how difficult is it to get a barrel? I realize that a lot of people would just say oh well just get a 9mm and be happy.....but I want something I can load up a bit, and something more unique....I'm going to attempt to shop around local barrel makers here but everything seems to be 1911's If anyone has any info etc I'd be grateful.

Guys & Gals, anyone using an RF-100? and have you had issues? Dillon has been great and replaced the electronic box bit twice....but I can't see why it keeps having a fault. First time it lost its vibration power Second time it ran at full power and couldnt be adjusted and ran as soon as plugged in and pushing the little blue button did nothing. I can't imagine what the issue is....I am not even moving the machine from the bench Suggestions?

Question 1: Station 2 will dispense the powder and bell the case.....you do not need an extra step Question 2: I use Redding titanium competition dies....it isnt necessary, I like them and I feel a little less resistance as the cases pass through the dies. Many people use Lee quite happily, or several other brands for that matter...all will do the job...its a preference choice really. Question 3: Your configuration will work just fine.... Quality and consistency in rounds is helped a little by operating the press in a smooth even motion on both the up and down stroke....after a while you get a natural rhythm, and also by good setup and cleanup habits to ensure all powder is out of hopper after use, keep the machine clean etc. Good luck and enjoy the 650XL, I love mine!

Once...just washed it up with very ordinary dishwashing soap and hot water (if you do it make sure u unscrew it from the thrower and just wash the hopper tube)....got the grey tint off after I left some powder in once for a few weeks.

Its on Brians site, as well as Dillons. Dillon says 44.5in w/ the 650 only strong mount(its shorter than the 550/650 mount) Strong mount(Stock#22052) - if your bench is either too low for comfortable use, or you need to access drawers underneath , the strong mount elevates the entire machine above your bench top. Raises height of the 650 to 38 1/2" without the optional electric casefeeder, to 44 1/2" with the electric casefeeder installed Brian lists it as 45in... so one of them is wrong. http://www.brianenos.com/pages/dillon.html There are two strongmounts...one is lower and it is the XL650 ONLY strong mount, the other is a strongmount that can be used with all Dillon presses....it is a few inches higher

I can get my hands on a trigger stirup die and other gunsmithing tools for the 1911...no problem. I tried to order the SV triglide system but being from Australia Brownells is giving me a DDTC restriction, so I'll source one locally. Thanks guys

something to remove the slop...shoe shape is fine. what is important is that I have a smooth consistent pull that doesn't divert my attention from my focus of picturing my bullets striking the centre of the targets. For me...a gritty or sloppy trigger is a distraction that causes me to lose focus....answer: remove the sloppy trigger

I have an STI Targetmaster which I'm starting to get working for me, but the one thing on the gun I really can't be happy with is the long curve nylon trigger. There is a fair amount of vertical and horizontal play in it, even with some of the slack taken up, and quite frankly it is having some effect on when my shot breaks..... I've done trigger work before, but not on a 1911, but I'm sure I can competently fit a new trigger. Any suggestions from those with experience on whats the good stuff? I'm thinking maybe an oversize blank or something I can fit/tune?

Happened to me once....turned out I had forgotten to properly tighten the brass tipped screw that locks off the shellplate bolt, with each turn the bolt tightened just a minute fraction unti the shellplate kinda locked up...ring indexer didnt index properly and crack....broken ring indexer

I lose maybe 10 out of 1200 primers to crushing in primer pockets on 9mm cases in my XL650 Im guessing this is a normal amount of shrinkage when bulk loading.....I don't think its the press's fault cause I can push out maybe 100 rounds or atleast 40-50 before having a primer stick. if I am on the ball enough I feel the resistance, turn the case and then often the primer will slide into the pocket. Is this a normal amount of crushed primers?

yep....figured as much.....and I have needed to trim 9mm cases in the past....not a usual thing for 9mm but it can happen. I'm not sure about the effect of the die as I've never had mine overturned but I do know the die should not contact with the shellplate...its a good way to damage/break shellplates and could well cause some kind of stress on brass. Finger tighten your die to the shellplate then back out half to one turn (or the amount recommended in your particular press's manual preferably) Im not personally aware of brass cases getting shorter..... mine seem to get slowly longer and thinner once they start to get stressed I use them only for practice on a range and chuck them as they split/crack The lesson here is when u have a problem with ammo, go back and confirm or rule out each possible option....easiest place to start is the case, and sometimes its the easiest thing to overlook... Some guns are also very forgiving and others are not so forgiving. My STI Targetmaster is very unforgiving on ammo...I have one combination that works better than anything else...everything else is a poor second. My friend's STI Trojan will swallow almost anything...but his does not group quite as nicely as mine so obviously the tolerances or quality are not quite the same, but then neither is the price tag.

Hmmmm I found my oal for my gun by basically sticking a cleaning rod without any attachment on it so the end is flat down the barrel against the bolt face and marking the rod with a felt tip pen, then dropping a projectile into the barrel and holding it pushing against the lands of the rifling and putting rod back in and measuring that. The distance between the two marks minus about 5 thousandths should be a good OAL for the gun....then I tune the powder/projectile mixture. You are full length sizing the cases so that should be good (unless there is something wrong with one of the dies) I don't believe the problem is related to primers at all. Despite whats been mentioned, it still looks like a brass problem....9mm seats against the chamber on the case neck.....too much crimp and it won't chamber, too little and it jams up, too long and the slide won't go into battery. If it functions 100% with factory ammo it isnt the gun, so it has to be the ammo I'd be checking all along the case with calipers and making sure its sizing right....if factory ammo and the reloads measure the same then if factory ammo chambers the reloads would...something is different somewhere...what is it? I would also try without the factory crimp and just use a normal taper crimp die...in all honesty all you need the crimp to do is hold the projectile, make it resilient to alteration from the blowback of previous rounds and chamber correctly.... Maybe try borrowing a set of dies from someone who has no problems? could be something wrong with one of the dies??

Funny but I've never had to tap rack, change mags or have a round perform any different to any others in 10's of thousands of loaded rounds (not counting when I am working up a new load and testing it)....I have had 5 failed to ignite 9mm factory rounds out of about 5 thousand Worst incident I have had with reloads is one round that seemed a little light on powder and dropped down towards the bottom scoring area of a target at 50m I will admit though that out of every thousand I load...there are probably 2-3 rounds that are faulty in one way or another, but they get pulled and the components recycled during loading. I have also never had a firearm malfunction, but then I clean and check my guns prior to shooting them....I'm sure one day I will have a malfunction but hasnt happened in close to 20 years yet.

My first press was a square deal....I load 2 main calibers and then everything else is sporadic at best, but as a square deal to 650 purchasers my two cents might be relevant to your decision. My square deal now is set to just load 38 for the revolver which I don't shoot as much, the new 650 now does mostly 9mm I bought the 650 late last year....and it is worth its weight in gold. Everyone told me I didnt really need a 650....and technically I could have kept loading everything on the square deal...technically...not happily now I don't spend half my life loading...have several thousands rounds minimum ready to go and I am shooting twice as often plus I have more socialising time. I am much more likely to just have another go at a match at the club on the weekend and don't have to check in my ammo box to see if I happen to have enough rounds left. Can't comment fairly on the 1050, I've used a friend's briefly but...I wasnt prepared to spend the money on a Dillon without a lifetime warranty, to me.... the 650 is definitely still a huge step up...I could never get the number of rounds that dillon lists as nominal per hour on the square deal, but I do on the 650. Plus now I have a roller handle...which as small a thing as it may sound, is waaaay more comfortable than the ball handle on the square deal, specially after several hours at the press. If you are serious about a 1050 I am sure it is a fine machine worthy of Dillon's reputation like everything else Dillon I have ever bought, and won't let you down....I just didnt see the need to load more than a 650 can handle for just me....cause I won't shoot more than a thousand rounds a day (Im more likely to shoot approx 250 a day)....that and I love the peace of mind of the lifetime warranty.....if that came on the 1050 for personal consumers purchasing it I might have splurged for it....without it Im probably more likely to end up with a couple of 650s down the track.... My other tip...spend the money on good dies....I love my Redding competition dies...

Ok, Set of MSA Sordin Supreme Pro-x's have arrived and been tested......I have to say....they are awesome, seems to be same/similar sound attentuation to gunfire as my NR33 rated Howard leightening non electronic muffs, but I can hear as well.....I can also now have some low volume music in the background as I train...fantastic!!...plus I swear if you turn up the volume you could listen to people in the next room!

Which match has an odd ball trigger weight of 1589 grams ??? Like most people have already posted..just give the left leg on the 3 finger spring a gentle bend to put a tad more arc into the spring.... thououghly scrub the sear and hammer with brake cleaner to remove any teflon or PTFE if you have been using lubes with that stuff in them. The trigger will be a bit more consistent with just plain old oil..... oh.. make sure the person who is testing the trigger knows how to lift the gun correctly - that can make a world of difference. WA1500 has a minimum of 1589grams. When the gun was brand new you could get it to lift the weight once out of three attempts.....so obviously its right on 1580 something, and yes I know how to lift it correctly...spent many hrs doing equipment control for comps. Macca, Before you go making your trigger heavier, I suggest that you read the National Referee Council's Rules for WA1500 as adopted by Pistol Australia.... Rule 4.2.2.1 says "Minimum trigger pull of 1360g" (Link is Straight out of the NRC Website and rules were adopted January 1st, 2008) That means you can LIGHTEN your trigger by 200 grams - not make it heavier.... unless you need to handicap yourself. From results posted on the various sites it seems that most Aussies are using their Service Pistol guns to shoot the match... some handy scores around the 1490 mark are even appearing... wow...must have missed that...rules are changing all the time.....I did my last r/o reaccreditation earlier this year and it was 1589grams then.....maybe the NRC had a misprint...thanks I will get the latest copy of the rules. some great scores are coming out of our service pistol shooters....and I have to say, I find WA1500 easier than service.....much less rushed/restricted on the timing

Which match has an odd ball trigger weight of 1589 grams ??? Like most people have already posted..just give the left leg on the 3 finger spring a gentle bend to put a tad more arc into the spring.... thououghly scrub the sear and hammer with brake cleaner to remove any teflon or PTFE if you have been using lubes with that stuff in them. The trigger will be a bit more consistent with just plain old oil..... oh.. make sure the person who is testing the trigger knows how to lift the gun correctly - that can make a world of difference. WA1500 has a minimum of 1589grams. When the gun was brand new you could get it to lift the weight once out of three attempts.....so obviously its right on 1580 something, and yes I know how to lift it correctly...spent many hrs doing equipment control for comps.

Thanks, thats what I am now doing.....I think its the best thing, helps with my draw speed too!

I am considering purchase of electronic ear muffs and switching away from passive muffs. I do a variety of firearms training, ROing, and various types of shooting sports (mostly pistol though) My main problem with my passive muffs is half the time I just cannot hear what people are saying on a range. I do already suffer from tinnitus or some kind of hearing loss (in particular, loud noises cause a bit of crackling sound) so I am keen to protect my ears as much as possible. From the posts thus far, experience seems to suggest I'd be better off with the msa sordins or peltor swatacs than I would the pro-ears gold mags. Anyone care to share any extra experiences/recommendations?? Thanks....

ENFJ I ran a few different tests and compared the results to ideal career which said psychologist/counsellor ....which seems right as Im just about to undergo my intern training as a psych..... but what does it mean about my strengths weaknesses for shooting?????

Guys, Im currently implementing a new dry fire routine just to develop my speed of sight acquisition. This year my shooting has kind of gone downhill (to the point I'm slipping a grade in almost every type of match i shoot) Having had a close look at what Im doing one of the problems is my sight acquisition speed and coordination with the trigger squeeze. My shooting in accuracy matches where I have lots of time has risen though. If anyone has any suggestions that might be useful I'd welcome them. at this point all i can think of is to stop scoring my matches and just focus on sheer repetition of acquiring the sights and coordinating my trigger squeeze under time pressure...particularly series like 2 shots per target etc. Thanks...

I would be interested in hearing anyone's suggestions about slightly increasing the trigger pull weight of my STI Targetmaster. It is a bit hit and miss in passing equipment control for competition where I need to meet a minimum pull of 1589 grams...sometimes it passes and I can lift the weight, other times it just goes....I'm wondering if I can just run with it as is and take my luck but if it gets caught have a spring to swap? Is this easily enough achieved by a spring change? or do I have to change the whole set of springs?...I'm only looking for a minor adjustment

this sounds odd to me and more like the shellplate bolt was incorrectly tensioned to begin with because from my experience if the setscrew is loose or did loosen, then the shellplate bolt would gradually tighten down on the shellplate with each turn of the handle until the shellplate jams, and the ring indexer fails to index and you risk breaking the ring indexer.....I know this because i forgot my setscrew....loaded a few hundred and yep...jammed the shellplate and broke a ring indexer. If the setscrew is tight against the shellplate bolt I can't imagine it loosening (if it is tight) Is the shellplate bolt shaft damaged? is the tip of the setscrew looking worn and damaged? If they are then its probably worth replacing them....a quick look should tell you. I should also add.....smooth technique in operating the machine is half the battle...specially with a 9mm or similar.....the shellplate fix for me only covers part of the problem...if you knock the machine, run it inconsistently or if your primer seater is out alignment even it can spring up and knock the shell against the shellplate and rattle everything.... My advice is check the parts...if worn out replace, then carefully run through slowly one station at a time and examine everything....its a fiddly pain in the ### but once its right its worth it.