Macca

Isn't the shell plate setscrew suppose to keep the shellplate screw from loosening up? -Steve +1 on that the setscrew.... when i originally had problems it was because I had forgotten to tighten said setscrew.......

sounds funny to ay it all at once but true! also don't try to cuddle koalas in the bush...they have bad tempers and sharp claws, and for goodness sake if u r travelling through central australia and breakdown...dont leave the vehicle and go off walking through the scrub!

I suspect these answer are authentic. they are on the wall in australia's tourism board as answers they are NOT allowed to use... and they are posted at King's Cross. miranda ok....I'll have to go have a look....Kings Cross is 5 mins away by car

I would seriously question the authenticity of those replies....

for what it may be worth my STI Targetmaster has a huge preference for 135 grain roundnose hardcast lead over any other weight no matter what powder/primer oal etc i tried. I have also noticed it prefers them set as long as possible, mine are at an OAL of 1.168, case neck diameter .380

Ok...although my bearing kit did smooth things a little, I've found the same effect can be achieved with bolt tension without it. I have also found that with the bearing kit 'fix' i am now crushing a number of primers...somehow the shellplate is getting out of alignment....suggestions? thanks

Try tightening the shell plate bolt every so slightly, until the pull handle won't snap back up with your hand off the handle from mid stroke, Just to the point where you feel tension on the upstroke, but not too tight. There is a little magic, and you'll have to play around, but others that are loading N320 with .45's and me with lots of powder that pretty much fills a case in 9mm Major have no spillage. Also, the bearing will take a *set* after a few pulls from a new install while it squeezes out the grease that it has in it... that will also loosen the tension, so it may take a couple of adjustments to get it where you want it... Alan Yep....I had to play around a little with bolt tension...My fav 9mm load the case is full to the point its almost compressed and I don't lose a single flake now

Installed my kit...runs great....I found I need to tighten to touch and then back off half a turn though or shellplate wont turn.

a photo to show how you taped it would be good. Thanks

flitz metal polish can be great for getting rust off guns without causing any damage

sounds like the problem is the belt is just not stiff enough....someone I shoot with had troubles with almost every holster they tried with the safariland belt...switched to rescomp (CR speed) and problem went away. Try a few different belts from people you shoot with...especially a cr speed or a very thick duty belt that has an aluminum/hard plastic core. What I know from experience in training people to use holsters is that the belt must fit the holster and there is almost no such thing as too stiff a belt. Personally for range use I prefer cr speed holster and belt combo, but any matching holster/belt combo should do it. seen plenty of guys with safariland belt and holster combos without issue...maybe your combo just does not match well. I used a safariland duty belt and holster on the job and it worked just fine...but that was a matching duty gear set.

is the powder thrower throwing consistent charges? if so leave well enough alone.

Im considering a bullet feeder...is it really worth it? the MR Bulletfeeder kinda looks like just some bits of plastic pipe and seems pricey for what it is. Im currently waiting on the arrival of an xl650 and am looking forward to the speed increase from using a square deal....how much of a speed increase do you get with a bulletfeeder?

As an Aussie...I reckon dillon is true blue....even if they are all american.

Peter...any chance you can tell me where you got them from? Thanks, John.

used to use CLP as it was what we had when I worked for a firearms distributor repairing all manner of guns. When my 'borrowed' supply ran out I bought a bottle of militec-1 and I still have half the bottle years later. Biggest problem I ever had with CLP was it was it was too liquid and everything seemed to stick to it. On a hot summers day my auto used to dry out real fast....that doesnt happen with Militec-1

How large were your 50 yard groups with the 135 gr rn & 5 gr PP? Jack varied 2-3 inches sometimes a little more but...for 50 its good.... off the bench a couple were well within the x-count

ok...despite being a very fussy gun...I've found 135grain rn nose hard cast lead projectile with 5 grains of power pistol and a federal small pistol primer at 1.165" OAL gets the job done. strangely, with the 124 grain rn...win231 4.0 grains seems to do the job (not power pistol with that projectile) Unique and bullseye seemed to be appalling in the end especially at 50 yards no matter the combo i tried....in fact unique performed poorly in every load I tried...so I'll definitely steer clear of it for 9mm. 4.5 grains of wst with a 124 rn also worked quite well....but of the lot the first load was the winner hands down.

ok i marked a case at tope and fired and repeated several times. If the top of the case is 12 o'clock, then the mark is being placed between 7 and 8 o'clock...so its definitely nothing to do with extractor....obviously its the ejector or something to do with the breechface (although I can't see anything on the breechface to do it....end of the day it probably doesnt matter...i'd just like to know

Ive discovered another STI (this time a range master....also brand new) owned by someone else in my pistol club that has the same issue. I will try to mark my brass with a marker to show topside of brass and try and define which side is marking the brass.....I can't see anything in the chamber/breechface to leave a mark, but I suppose it could be from the rounds stripping out of the magazine, or the ejector.

breechface is clean and smooth...no little ledge or machining error that I can see.

i wouldnt know....never seen it before Ok...will it settle down or do i need to do something to the gun? cant imagine its good for brass long term to dent the casehead continually

i wouldnt know....never seen it before

Hey guys, my STI Targetmaster is marking all my brass....Is it the extractor? I've attached an image...its a vertical line on the edge of the case head

Ok....found some time to measure the chamber of my gun.....1.172-3 is touching.....so I've loaded some tests rounds out of the best performing combinations of powder/projectile to 1.165 They seem to feed fine in mags etc, and action cycles manually with that length no problem. I also went back and measured the previous loadings...they were 1.014, not 1.14! ...i must have read my calipers wrong....cause thats just too short....so im not surprised they were a bit on the dodgey side (very unlike me). Crimp is definitely set to minimal too. I expect these may perform quite a bit better.