Rob Tompkins
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Posts posted by Rob Tompkins
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Lower power recoil springs will reduce the muzzle dip as the slide goes back into battery - good thing. However, reliable feeding / chambering might be compromised - bad thing.
Unless something is out of spec, a 14 lb recoil spring should not cause any damage. You my sense a faster slide motion and it may feel a bit sharper so you need to see if the net change is worth it to you or not.
Going heavy will give you more muzzle dip but the recoil may feel a bit softer and the slide may seem a bit slower as the recoil impluse is spread out over a longer time frame. Going too heavy can impact reliability in terms of fully cycling the slide for good feeding and slide lock.
Springs are cheap. Try them out and see how they feel.
Thanks Rob. I will give it a shot tomorrow with both.
Good luck.
At the risk of getting flaimed, I'll also mention some shooters use an AL shok buffer (I don't) to act a dead hammer and reduce the impact. They have a whole set of their own issues but that might be an option if your are concerned. I would not recommend any of the rubber shok buffers - to likely to shred and jam up if you run them to long.
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Lower power recoil springs will reduce the muzzle dip as the slide goes back into battery - good thing. However, reliable feeding / chambering might be compromised - bad thing.
Unless something is out of spec, a 14 lb recoil spring should not cause any damage. You my sense a faster slide motion and it may feel a bit sharper so you need to see if the net change is worth it to you or not.
Going heavy will give you more muzzle dip but the recoil may feel a bit softer and the slide may seem a bit slower as the recoil impluse is spread out over a longer time frame. Going too heavy can impact reliability in terms of fully cycling the slide for good feeding and slide lock.
Springs are cheap. Try them out and see how they feel.
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I saw a used M1 Super90 in a local gun store today. It was tagged as having a 25.5' barrel and looked like a +4 mag tube. Barrel had a vent rib & bead. Black synthetic stock.
Overall the gun looked like c*-p. The receiver had been painted black and a lot of the paint was chipped (underlying original finish looked bead blasted) off but everything else seemed to have an original finish. However the bolt seemed to work fine and was very smooth but quite dusty in side.
The tagged price was ~$600 so with 8% sales tax, out the door it would have been ~ $650. I don't know how many rounds fired but I'm guessing quite a lot. I'd want to take thus gun and open up the loading port, get it refinished, replace the tube with a +6 or even +7, and add a side saddle, etc.
My question to the collective wisdom of this group is: Given the need (ok desire) to have it refinished and replace the mag tube, is $650 for a very well used (history unknown) M1 a good or bad deal?
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A guy was using one at the local 3-gun this past weekend. He had a LOT of trouble from his 30 rnd mags. Said they were new, fresh out of the wrapper. I didn't get the brand name. His one 20 rounder worked fine except on the 30+ round COF's!
If your mags work, and the inherent accuracy is good enough I see no reason if wouldn't be good to go.
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I am digging that front strap treatment!! Great looking gun!!
JM
Thanks, It's a option from Fusion on their frames. The MSH is matching.
It's very similar to the what STI does on the Trojan but a tighter pattern so if grips better.
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Custom build on a Fusion frame & slide. 9mm
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you might take a look at deuck defense or the JP SRTS (more like a pistol sight). or you can just find 45 off sets and find your favorite AR sights and mount those separately.
I tend to lean toward the JP SRTS because I started competing with pistols so i like that sight picture. its limited to about 30 yards or so for effectiveness.
+1
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Enjoyed the movie. They were darn lucky.
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Doubt all you want, but it is true.
I have shot 855, 193, hand loads with 69gr SMK pushing 2800+fps. the 855 does the least amount of depressions in the steel.
So to conserve my steel targets I should use greentip.
That's interesting. I wondered why the military even developed 855 when 193 apparently has better penetration.
If you havent seen it, much can be answered here at the ammo oracle: http://ammo.ar15.com/
As I understand it, its very much a function of range. The M193 is a lighter 55grsin FMJ bullet at higher velocity. At closer ranges it will out perform M855 w/ the SS109 62 grain steel core FMJ bullet. At some range, the M855 will be at a higher velocity as it will slow down slower than the M193. The M855 is "improved" only at longer ranges.
I am the MD for the local 3-gun outlaw match. While M855 may or may not do more damage to the AR500 steel at 50-150 yards, its a moot point. People bring guns in other chamberings and try to bring no kidding AP milsurp ammo. Can't have that so its a blanket "no steel core" ammo rule.
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Winchester load data here: http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp
Welcome to the Enosverse!
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Why crimp ?
In a semiauto rifle, set back is a concern, as is the bullet jumping forward when slammed into the chamber if the neck tension is not tight enough. Perhaps I was wrong but I assumed the OP was loading for a semi. If you're loading for a bolt and single loading a crimp is not necessary but may (or may not) help accuracy.
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Add a crimp die in station 5 and you're good to go. Execpt for the powder check die, this is how I set mine up.
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Magwell - recommend the Smith and Alexander but there are other good ones
extended slide stop - if you like that
sights of your desired flavor - FO are very popular
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PPK's will be sold out for months!
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Good luck, have a ton-o-fun!
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What, if anything are you going to do for a magwell?
You might want to look at the price differnce between the two opitions and how much ammo (and thus practice) that means.
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Sorry to hear that. Good luck at Rockcastle.
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I should say I have a PT1911 in 45ACP and besides the thumb safety and Dawson sights I mentioned I also added a Smith & Alexander MSH magwell blended in nicely and Aluma Grips just because.
I also have custom built 1911 9mm that cost 4x as much. The trigger is nicer and the fit and finish is much nicer on the custom gun but in terms of reliability and accuracy, my PT1911 offers a very good value.
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Unless you are a lefty, I'd suggest fitting a good single sided safety. The ambi is like many others, it can work lose and jam up your gun. That happened to me on mine.
Mine has proved very accurate - more than enough for pistol games. A tighter bushing might make even a bit better but I'd not suggest a new barrel. Dawson makes a nice FO front and rear, i use both.
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Just thinking math here: In an 8 stage club match, shooting ESP, the maximum number of reloads a shooter will be required to make is 8. A string in IDPA can't require more than 18 rounds. There is also a good chance there will be a stage or 2 out of those 8 that is 11 rounds or less. And, most club matches run 6-to 8 stages, so there may not be more than four or five reloads. But, let's assume 8 reloads.
If the insert mag/overhand rack the slide reload is smooth and practiced, it won't take more than .5 second longer than a reload hitting the slide release. 8 x .5 = 4 seconds - or 8 down points. The OP states he shot the IDPA classifier with the non-slide lock gun and significantly beat his previous times with another gun. The Classifier has 2 slide lock reloads required, so they apparently were done smoothly.
If the accuracy/handling/transition factor enough to negate those "8 down points", then the slide down reload could be a wash. If the accuracy/handling/transition factor provides noticeably less down points than his other gun... and beats those "8 down points", it could be a gain. I wouldn't automatically discount the non-slide locking gun.
The best course is to just go shoot it in a club match and see how it does. It may not be a handicap if the shooter is real comfortable with it.
All true. The issue is when you "miss count" and drop a mag early and get a 3 sec "bonus" or pull the trigger on an empty gun for another "bonus". If you count right all the time, I agreee the impact is not much, but... there is risk.
BTW, I've seen differences between 1st and 2nd be less than 1 or 2 sec many times so that little bit of time can be significant.
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No, min cal is 308 WIN / 7.62 x 51 (http://www.uspsa.org/rules/2012_Multigun_Rules.pdf page 17)
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The G34 can run in SSP or ESP, the XD is ESP only. As you have smaller versions of each gun you know both platforms. Pick which ever you wish.
If yo haven't considered the M&P Pro 9mm you should. The grip is different from both Glock and XD, some find it more comfortable.
Also consider going to 40S&W if you reload. You can down load for IDPA to a very mild ~130PF and still shoot major PF (165+) in USPSA.
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Or are we going on the idea that since it's not a permitted modification?
Bingo. The list of permitted mods is an inclusive list. "Conversion from rimmed to rimless ammunition" is a permitted mod in ESR, even though speedloaders can be used there, but it's conspicuously de-listed as a permitted mod in SSR.
Since the OP hadn't done the conversion yet, it seemed germane.
Tom
From Page 25:
"A. Any revolver of .38 Caliber (.357” or larger) or larger that utilizes ammunition with a rimmed case and is not reloaded with a full moon clip."
This does not DQ a gun if its cut for moon clips. You just can not use moonclips to reload and the ammo used has to be as marked on the gun (or approved alternative). So long as you can use the marked ammo with out moonclips you're ok. The ESR rule you mention is to allow converting to a differnt caliber than marked on the gun (example: 357 mag to use 38 Super).
This is back up by the following rules calification:
"The rules clarification committee has ruled .45 Auto Rim may be shot in SSR with a revolver designed to shoot .45ACP with moonclips. They have also ruled for firearms like the S&W Governor and the Taurus Judge, 45 Long Colt can be used to shoot those firearms in SSR and in ESR with .45ACP using moonclips. The .410 option could be used as a pickup gun on a stage but not as a primary firearm in either SSR or ESR."
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Hello everyone,
I have been shooting USPSA Production division this year and and starting to look at IDPA SSP as well for several reasons. I think I will be transitioning more to IDPA over the course of the year and eventually focus on IDPA. That said, I will still shoot both sports as I really enjoy them both for different reasons so I want my gear to be as similar as possible for muscle memory, drills, etc.
Right now I am shooting a CZ 75B from a Bladetech DOH holster, CR Speed Mag Pouches, and a CR Speed two piece outer/inner belt. From what I understand, none of that is legal in it's current configuration for IDPA. I can drop the DOH attachment and use the holster straight on the belt. However the CR Speed gear will not work for SSP right?
What is the best gear to use that is legal for both IDPA SSP and USPSA Production?
Thanks and have a blessed day!
- Timothy
Your assessment is correct, the CR Speed gear is not IDPA legal. There are many holster makers that also make mag pouches that are, Bladetech is one. What is the "best gear" is a loaded question, everyone will have differnt take. If you like you holster, just look for some Bladetech pouches.
Shooting glasses for strong prescriptions
in Gear & Accessories
Posted
I just had a similar problem. My script is not as bad as yours but way past the +/- 2.00 cylinder available in most sporting glasses. I called an talked to Rudy directly and the suggested www.sporteyes.com. They do have options for high scripts. However you might want to look at traditional safety glasses (they have flat lenses and side guards). Also you might want browse frames at a local optometrists and see what has wide sides or can have side guards added. I found a pair of Ray-Bans that could be fit that were not wrap around with wide side frames.
Just be sure to polycarbonate lenses.