Rob Tompkins
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Posts posted by Rob Tompkins
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Thanks Springy,
Is huddle house a franchise eating place or a football camp?
That's suppose to be a funny but could u explain please?
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..... There is a little bit of screen refresh lag on the nooks, but it does take inputs as fast as you can tap the screen. If you tap your input quickly then it will pick up the total input on the next screen refresh. If you tap, then wait for it to refresh, then tap again it can be a slow process of imputing scores. With practice and having confidence in your tapping skills you can input called out target scores as fast as anyone yelling out the scores. Just "Call your Shot" on the screen when you are tapping in the scores. Not too much different than shooting
Looking for holes while shooting wastes time as well.Just as there are less skill full shooters, there are less skill full tappers. Many times at local matches we have to stop mid stage so the tablet driver can fix a mistake.
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Well, I've been running 6 stage, 70+ competitor matches since January and no one's bitched yet about handling or response on the nooks. The combination of the e-ink display and run-all-weekend battery life are just impossible to ignore. We ran a 220+ competitor 9 stage state match last year and no one bitched about the speed or usability of the nooks.
My observations are that new users comment "WOW this is slow" but then learn nothings going to change so they stop complaining and accept - what's the point?
Most learn to cope with it or figure out a way to avoid using them to score.
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I run a monthly local IDPA match and 3-gun match using Nexus 7 tablets. These tablets are at the $200 price point now. I also shoot a local USPSA match that use Nooks.
With Nexus 7 tablets: bright sharp screens, fast screen response, no hassle Practiscore set up, ~6hrs battery life with 100% screen on at max brightness and wifi on. Some minor challanges with sreen visiability in brightest direct sunlight but black on white screen layout helps alot.
With Nooks: Very good readability, long battery life, light weight, inexpensive, more complexity in setting up to run Practiscore, users seem to find a way to dump out of Practiscore and back to an e reader alot - requires a restart, slow screen repsonse makes users frustrated.
For the matches I run the Nexus 7 tablets are the best solution, the 6hr battery life is more than sufficent so far (I am thinking about some USB batteries just in case), sunlight is rarely an issue and the users like the experence. With auto update I don't have to do a thing to keep the app current. Now if I needed MUCH longer batter life and needed a bunch of tablets (only run two now) I'd probably go with Nooks but i would not like the extra effort to root them or keep them current.
I did look at other tablets and the Nexus had the best quoted battery life. If it were much shorter it would not be usable.
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A couple local guys have started using small cement mixers with out an y SS pins. Brass is reported to be clean but not shinny. However, they can do HUGE amounts of brass at one time.
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As if we can find slugs to shoot
I see you're in Huntsville (so am I). Larry's has a HUGE supply of slugs and the South Walmart was stocked up pretty good this past Sunday. Both places were $5.99/box of 5.
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In the end shooters will vote with their feet. Its a game and if they dislike the rule set enough they will go else where, if they like the rule set (or can accept it anyway) they'll stay.
No rule set will please everyone all the time, but it only needs to please most everyone most of the time to be sucessful and I suspect that will prove to be the case here.
There was a comment about an IDPA goal is to slow down the fast shooters and not speedup the slow shooters. Remember in the IDPA scoring method every point is worth 0.5 sec. In the other game any COF with a HF greater than 2.0, a point is worth < 0.5 sec, perhaps as little as 0.1 sec or even less (if HF is 10.0 or more). While IDPA is a time based game, it does favor accuaracy more than the other game and add in the penelity effects of a FTN its even more so. I've seen several high speed low drag cross over shooters run some blistering raw times to only end up as an also ran because of points and penelities. Its the nature of the game and if you think its just desigend to punish fast shooters as opposed to reward accurate shooters, then its a game not suited to you.
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A local shooter ran a Ruger GP for a long time very well. He saw my 625JM, tried it liked it, bought one then went out and got a 686 SSR. He likes all of his wheel guns but seems to have a harder time getting the Ruger tuned up but did a lot of work on the S&W's him self and they run great.
I don't shoot SSR very often so I run what I brung, a Taurus 669. Uses K-frame loaders and holsters. I like the k-frame size. But I like the N-frame 625 as well so... what do I know.
Most every one I know runs a S&W of some flavor. Most of the regualr SSR shooters are running a 686 variant and we'll see a 66 once in a while.
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This.... is my attempt. ;-)
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Thanks Rob, that's all very helpful information! Not so different than pistol reloading really. You are making me second guess though whether it is worth my time and money to start reloading for .223/5.56. We'll have to see what the future brings.
-Eli
On several different ammo search bots I've seen reports of steel cased (possibly bi-metal jacketed) ammo for $400/1k. Considering todays prices of ~15+ cents ea for projectiles, 4-5 cents for primers and 8-10+ cents for powder you're only saving 10 cents / rnd to reload - if you don-t have to buy brass at 10+ cents / case. At the cost of lots of time to reload, its hard to argue for reloading IF steel cased ammo meets your needs. About the best online price I've seen for brass cased, copper jacketed ammo as been $600/1k and that was out of stock. You can make a case for reloading if that is your baseline.
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I have experience reloading pistol just not rifle yet. So most people load mid to upper range loads? Are faster or slower powders better for multigun loads. I have the Horady and Lyman reloading books ill have to take a look in them for ideas.
Most people I shoot with do not reload 223/5.56. Untill the last 6 months you could buy Wolf/Tula for not much more than it would cost to reload and with a lot less hassle. For the distances we shoot our local 3-gun it is an ok ammo to use - just have make sure it's not steel cored ammo. In broad terms if you can geet 1.5 MOA accuracy you good for most 3-gun
I would not reload 223/5.56 exepct I want to shoot copper jacketd bullets (not bi-metal) and that ammo has become hard to find at any price (but more is beceoming avail at < $600/1k). At the volumes I shoot (1k-2k / year) saving 10 cents a round is not worth all the extra effort it takes to collect and prep rifle brass. At 40-50 cents (or more) savings per round it is worth the effort so I've been reloadiing for rifle even with projectiles and powder hard to find. Once XM193 is available for <$400/1k I probably won't reload for general blasting ammo.
I personally I do not look for max velocity but look for max accuracy and live with what ever velocity that is. My current favorite loads are a 75gr HPBT with 22.5gr VV N135 (well below max of 23.3gr) and a 52gr HPBT Hornady or Nosler bullet with 20.5gr Reloader 7 (well below max of 21.3gr). There are many other good powders I would have rather used but these are what I could find at the time and they work well.
In general faster powders work better for lighter bullets and slower for heavyer bullets. Some powders work well for a large range of bullet weights. Study your books and online sources to see the wide range of powders you can use. IMHO for any given bullet I would use a slower powder that needs a larger charge to get the same velocity. Why? You will have variations in charge weights and small variations will have less effect on larger charges. Also it's way harder to over charge a case if its full with a normal charge.
It's all about what bullet / velocity / accuracy you want - not so much if its for 3-gun or not.
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I'll only ever be looking for 3gun type accuracy and power factors/velocities. I guess if the 5.56 ballistics are ideal than would that be what I would try to match reloading. I do realize i can just go over to the reloading forum and read to my hearts content on the topic so I don't need any crazy detail, unless you are in the mood to explain... I'm always receptive to learn something new
Just did a little looking, is there no min PF for rifle in most multigun matches? I shoot tac optics or tac irons.
if you are new to reloading, get a book from any of the big companies. I like the Hornady book but Speeer's is good as well.
If you want 5.56 velocites, IMHO, only use 5.56 brass. Find data for you selected bullet & powder and start 10% under and work you way looking for pressure signs (flat primers, defomed head stamps, blown primers).
Min PF requirements are based on the rule set in use. Need to look at each match. However, if you are close to or below factory-like PF's long range shots will be harder.
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Alright so the consensus seems to be that the difference between the two, other than maybe noise and concussion of the 5.56, is negligible. The only difference is if you are running the bullet faster as in the 5.56 Your fluctuation between different distance holds will be less because of the flatter trajectory. I like the idea of being able to zero the gun at 50 yds and more or less forget about it so maybe 5.56 or at least hotter loaded .223 is best for me. Can anyone comment on how much that +/- 2.5" for the 5.56 would increase if using standard velocity .223? (for all considerations we are talking about 55gr bullets)
Can you define LOS? Is it line of sight? From the context it is the line going through the center of the tube of the scope.
Can any one speak to which type of brass is better for reloading and why?
Yes, LOS - line of sight and it is the LOS of the scope.
Hornady ballistics calculatior: http://www.hornady.com/ballistics-resource/ballistics-calculator
You can use the calauclator to see the effects of different bullets / velocities and zero distances. As a general rule you'll lose about 50 yards off your point blank range using 2900fps 55gr 223 ammo vs 3100+fps 55gr 5.56 ammo. Same +/- range.
NATO / Military brass is thicker to hold up to the higher pressures and as a result the case volume is less so if you reload you need to download ~10% then work back up to what ever load you want that is safe and accurate. Also military brass (and some commercial bass) will have crimped in primers which can be (but may not be) a problem - it depends on the brass and the primers you use. it can be removed by swaging or trimming, not hard but and extra step in the process. many reloaders like the military brass, in way of comparison its cheaper, commonly available, consistant, and perhaps more durable if you reload to 5.56 pressures.
If you are loading to a less than max load and don't need bench rest accuracy its not a problem in my experence to comingle 5.56 and 223 brass. If you want top accuracy you'll need to sort by head stamp, or least 223 vs 5.56.
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I've used BBI and have been very happy with them. Can't compare to Precesion or Bayou but I have found them to have a smoother and cleaner molly coat than Magnus and they smoke less as well.
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UpDate:
I did some checking. I have some NEW never loaded factory Federal Match grade brass. Calipered the primer pockets on a bunch and they ALL war .1735" in diameter.
I measured the Win. WSR Primers. They measured .1740" Checked some CCI 400 and 450 primers. they measured .1745". Measured SOME of my older once fired brass that I used the Suer Swager on and the measured from .1745 to .1760"
BINGO!!!!
Check the auto swagger in the 1050and it is swaging at .1735" well within specs. I am gonna get some WOLF Small rifle primers for standard loads and see what they measure out to be. I think I found my problem.
Might want to re-measure WSR are angled.
1.740 at base and 1.75-.76 at the anvil
either way they should be staying in the pockets. The ones I have are the (so I hear) Older brass cup models. so I guess they are softer and deforming just a little, enough to fall out.
You've confused me.
A: New brass is .1735
B: Primers are .1740+
C: Some of your swaged brass is .1745-.1760
Conclusion: primers are defroming and falling out?
Seems to me that if the primers are deforming at all it's because they are being pressed into the pimer pocket which i would think make them get wider, not narrower?
From what you've said I would think some of your older brass has been over swaged such that some of the primer pockets may even be > .1760 which you have already measured in some.
Have you measured the pockets of any brass where you have had primiers fall out? What was that measurement?
If you want to keep using the batch of brass that might have some oversized primer pockets mixed in it I agree you need to find larger dia primers but even then you might still have oversized pockets that would cause you problems. Otherwise you can as a one time exercise measure 100% of the brass and just toss anything oversized. The only other option I can think of is start with fresh brass.
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Dang , ...Dry and Hot , IF you could just provide some humidity I would be just like home. Dry ground & Wet air
South GA in June . . . be careful what you wish for.
Long range forecast from Accuweather...
mid-90's with T'Storms on Fri.
Yep, its June in S. GA.
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It's yours. message me your phone # and I'll call you
Message sent! :-)
Transfer complete! :-)
Thanks much,
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Also, if you get a Nikon sope they have a web tool (search Nikon SpotOn) where you can select your scope and the ammo or hand load performance you're using and it'll give you the range values for your hash marks.
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As to effectiveness of the comps, IMHO its generally a wash but I sense a bit less recoil with 223 but may just be less blast / noise.
As to BDC scope reticules, advertised ranges for hash marks are set for specific bullets at specific velocities - independent of if its 223 or 5.56. Note that unless you have the same barrel used to the measure the factory ammo, odds you'll get that exact velocity is pretty low. However they will work with any bullet / velocity combo. Just find the angular subtensions of the hash marks and run a ballistics program (Hornady has one on their web page) find the range equal to that drop from your selected zero range for the bullet used and your measured velocity - you'll need access to a chrono to see what the ammo really does.
The good news is that with XM193 or hotter 223 ammo you can find a zero with an effective point blank range out to 250-275 yards. Example: your scope LOS is 2.5 in above bore axis (typical height for an A4 upper with monolithic base/ring combo) and the typical XM193 out of a 16' CAR will be around 3000-3100fps, maybe a bit more. With a ~50 yard zero you the bullet will be +/- 2.5" from LOS out to about 275 yards. More than good enough to ping a 8" steel plate.
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It's yours. message me your phone # and I'll call you
Message sent! :-)
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Does anyone need a hotel room in Blakely? I just happen to have an extra one at the days inn
i have a room at the Days Inn in Culbreth about 25 mi north. i'd like to be in Blakely though. How do we transfer the reservation?
Thanks,
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Bottom line, what is logical and rational to one person is not necessarly logical and rational to another. As long as there are twice as many IDPA matches in the local area I'll shoot more IDPA than USPSA no matter the rules. I'll find a way to play the GAME as best as I can.
Please note, both IDPA and USPSA have protective Divisons. USPSA protects the 1911 in all cal's and IDPA protects the 45ACP in all guns. That is how it is and likely to stay as far as I can tell. It would be nice if IDPA just called it what it is, the 45ACP Division and stopped trying to make it a gun feature-driven divison when in fact ANY IDPA leagal gun can play as long as it is 45ACP - that truly is a 45ACP Divison.
Personally I'd like to see a way for like power factor guns compete together just becase that makes sense to me but I'll play by whatever the rules are. However, looking at how IDPA is setting classification times they don't think there is much performance difference between gun features OR power factors. Begs the question, why have Divisions? Just so we can have more winners? But I digress.
Great post...well said!
However, looking at how IDPA is setting classification times they don't think there is much performance difference between gun features OR power factors. Begs the question, why have Divisions? Just so we can have more winners? But I digress.
Really good post!
Is it possible that the test is not very good? If there is one test and people can go shoot that test as often as they like they are going to get good at that one test and the times should be very close.
Here I go with a USPSA analogy so flame suit on. There are simple USPSA classifiers and there are hard ones. It is pretty simple to have a very good run on a simple classifier and get into higher numbers. It is pretty rare to have a run like that on one of the more complicated ones. The point is the harder the classifier, USPSA or IDPA the more it will separate the shooters and platforms. I was surprised the IDPA classifier did not get a face lift.
In either game you can game the classifier if you want to. Set up the IDPA classifier and shoot it until you are a ???? For USPSA go to a classifier match that publishes the stages and work on them before you go.
Both USPSA and IDPA have a way to bump people to the next higher class in matches. I think IDPA's is a little more forceful and that is good.
Thanks guys!
I'm the MD for one of the local IDPA matches and I shoot USPSA 10-12 times a year. I've shot and seen many people shoot classifiers in both games. One measures the skill set in many different ways against the "best score on record" and one does is a single way against a "set standard". Both have good points but both are incomplete in the sense they don't fully represent what you see in a "typical" match but they both test basic and commonly used skills. As to "match bumps", yes both games have a way to do that and I've experienced both. I think the IDPA way is bit overly aggressive in that I've seen many lower skilled shooters get bumped just because they did a bit better and won but were still miles behind the next classification. I would like to see a requirement to have bested x% of the next classification up to be bumped.
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Bottom line, what is logical and rational to one person is not necessarly logical and rational to another. As long as there are twice as many IDPA matches in the local area I'll shoot more IDPA than USPSA no matter the rules. I'll find a way to play the GAME as best as I can.
Please note, both IDPA and USPSA have protective Divisons. USPSA protects the 1911 in all cal's and IDPA protects the 45ACP in all guns. That is how it is and likely to stay as far as I can tell. It would be nice if IDPA just called it what it is, the 45ACP Division and stopped trying to make it a gun feature-driven divison when in fact ANY IDPA leagal gun can play as long as it is 45ACP - that truly is a 45ACP Divison.
Personally I'd like to see a way for like power factor guns compete together just becase that makes sense to me but I'll play by whatever the rules are. However, looking at how IDPA is setting classification times they don't think there is much performance difference between gun features OR power factors. Begs the question, why have Divisions? Just so we can have more winners? But I digress.
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Depends on the rules of the match as most are "outlaw" of some flavor. USPSA rules specify 308 Win / 7.62x51 NATO as do many others.
You can shoot the 7.62x39 if you want, just not in HM.
Looking for holes while shooting wastes time as well.
Draft Rule Book Poll
in IDPA Shooting
Posted
Jim is correct. Yes it may be true, the 200 or so respondents on this poll are a small % of total membership and the few hundred commenters (subitting 1100+ comments, several each) to IDPA on the rules are also a small % of membership. However, they propbably represent HUGE fraction of the membership that makes IDPA run. These are the people that serve as SO's and MD's, participate and staff major matches, etc. Out of the last years worth of local IDPA matches (in North AL) I've run or attended, there are were about 200 unique individuals. Out ot that number the regulars that help out as MD's, SO's, score keepers, stage designers, etc. total maybe 20 - 30 shooters. These are the people that took the time to read the draft rules and think about their impact. I personally would pay more attenttion to them and their comments than think that the lack of comment form the other 90%+ of membership is a glowing endoresment. Most them have never read the rules in the first palce and only do what someone tells them to do - or they learn the rules one PE at a time.