gng4life
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Posts posted by gng4life
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In a effort to improve(going from C->?) I was wondering if it was possible to shoot 2 divisions in the same day with the same gear at a match? I shoot 2 matches a month if I'm lucky and I'd like to make the most of my time while i'm there. Ive been video'ing to see what I can do to improve but more trigger time would allow me to go further in the same amount of time.
I'd like to shoot singlestack and L10 with the gear I have, I shoot at these two clubs:
http://www.richmondhotshots.com/
Ive never seen anyone at a match do 2 runs per stage so I was wondering if this is something thats club dependant, up to the match director and if it bugs other shooters on your squad(obviously I'd be taping/resetting steel whenever not shooting, not sitting around chatting)
thoughts?
Some clubs will allow you to run the classifier twice (each with a different division) but I haven't seen a club allowing to run twice every stage. I'm sure there are some out there but I haven't seen it. One club I go to will allow re-shoots after the official match is over but that's all.
It wouldn't bother me, you just have to pay for the second classifier also. Good luck...
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Hi guys,
thanks for the early comments on our new pouches. As you may imagine, I am far from objective when speaking about this pouch, having spent 6 months developing it, and bringing it to market. And I do think the result is pretty slick...
The pressure from the back, rather then side to side really make the difference and makes the release so much smoother. the Aluminum structure make it firmer, and allowing it to lock up in any position - and I do mean LOCKED. you will not get these to budge! A lot of attention was given to this - the ball joint connection point is machined to fit INTO the side wall of the pouch, so that even if the center screw is allowed to become loose - the pouch still cannot spin... those who have one - give that a try - loosen the centre screw - and you will see it still cannot turn.
I read the comment that the single stack spacer should have been included. please allow me a response: yes, this is an expensive pouch. no arguing that. But are you aware that every one of the pieces use (except the inner spacers) are machined aluminum parts! The pouch body is in fact machined from all 6 sides! Each one! To make one of these pouches costs probably more than 4 or 5 times than the cost of one plastic pouch - and even at $60, the margins for all involved, from DAA through the distribution network is actually very tight. Adding another spacer, which only perhaps 5% of our customers would use, did not seem like a good idea, while we were desperately trying to reduce production costs...
Some suggested the pouch should have been cut open in the front, like the CR.... I tried that, and decided against it. cutting a lower window there is totally unnecessary, as the radios in the part makes for a smooth transition from the mag tube to the side of the pouch - nice and easy to slide your index finger down as you draw the mag... a cut down would create a ledge, which your finger would hit every time. believe me, I tried it. Also - cutting it open in the front would weaken the structure of the pouch body allot, making it more prone to damage when going prone, or hitting a barricade. Yes, the insertion of the mag is not as smooth as one might hope - but once you get used to inserting it in the correct angle it is no longer a problem. Also - keep in mind that the purpose of a pouch is to efficiently draw OUT the mag not place it in....
Anyway, keep your comments coming, and us know what you think.
Good shooting everyone,
Saul
Thanks for the lengthy explanation Saul. I can really attest to the great customer service with DAA products also. There's been a few times I had to contact you and your shop for help and I have always walked away happy. That's why my holster, belt and now my Racemaster mag pouch are part of my rig. I want to test it more but if all goes well, I will be selling my CRSpeed mag pouches and going all RM and DAA.
Also, good info on the insert, I never imagined it was that involved.
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Great product. I radiused mine at the edges to take the sharpness off. I think having a spare parts kit for this would be a great addition. I had pulled the retention plastic bit and spring slide up a couple of times.
What does it look like after you took off the edge? Did you have to cover it or re-finish it?
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I am looking to get/build an electronic scoring system or at least make it all digital so I was wondering if anyone at other Steel Challenge clubs use anything like this?
I'm not talking about the SC scoring program, I'm talking about actually scoring the competitors on the line by some electronic means.
Thanks for the input...
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The front sight tool is nice but not needed. Actually, in the military, we've used the tip of the 5.56 round to depress the pin and rotate the post. It's a pain and it's slow but will work in a pinch.
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It probably has to do with cost more than anything. The bigger the bullet, the more expensive it gets. In the smaller calibers, there is much less disparity between the cost of the bullets. It rises exponentially as the bullet gets bigger.
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No concealment is required for our matches and I have never seen a Steel Challenge match use concealment. The only requirement would be using the surrender position for that division. Remember in IDPA, you don't have to use concealment with the qualification course so think of it in those regards...
I hope you can get out to a SC match, it's a ton of fun!
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Hey Top,
Did you ever try any HS-6 and compare it to the WAC loads? I noticed that the HS-6 was softer at 164 PF than the WAC. Yeah, I know, I was short rounds that day and didn't make it go Major since I started very low and worked it up to 164. I've loaded more rounds so hopefully I'll get to that magical 171 number. We've had a string of over 100 degree days lately so I'm waiting until it cools a little before I go.
I never shot a G34 but I'm sure a little more work. However, I never have that many screws some loose, are you using Loctite at all?
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I've had that problem with WCC headstamp brass. Do you have any pics? Do you only have one brand of brass? If not, is it only happening with one or all?
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"Best" is hard to define but my favorite is the MGM Switchview.
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You mentioned Arredondo you might be interest in this video of there nXg comp in action. http://www.xdtalk.co...-full-auto.html
Wow, great video! Thanks so much, that will definitely help me make my decision.
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Okay, has anyone tried this Clark Carbon Fiber handguard?
If you do a search, you will find several discussions on this. I have one but am considering replacing it with something that has rails. I don't know much about the handguard you want to replace, but I wouldn't call the Clark cool, so if that's your only reason for switching, I'd look elsewhere. But if you really want one, I am planning on replacing mine.
If you want super light and airy, I have a YHM lightweight full length that I'm no longer using.
When I search for "valkyrie handguard", I get four hits - 3 of which are mine and 1 of a classified.
The YHM looks nice, are you going to sell it? Could you PM me the specifics? Thanks
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Thanks! That's very, very nice! I have a bunch of PMags I got in a trade so I will start practicing on them...when I get time.
Thanks so much and great job!
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I mounted mine on the belt and tried them this past weekend.
Ditto on gng4life's comments: they mount solidly and the release is slick. They're well made, very secure yet very adjustable, ambi for those who need ambi and can be mounted at 90 degrees to the belt. Coming from Safariland 771's, I'm not used to the metal-on-metal feel of the release - but that's neither here nor there.
What I don't like is the "sharp" edge at the front of the opening. This is the edge that meets the front edge of the magazine. When inserting a mag, the front of the mag catches on this edge. A radius or a beveled edge would have been better.
Also, for $60 USD, I think a spacer for single stack mags would have been a nice. Their plastic ones don't come with one but those are just a little over half the cost.
I like them, but I think I'm going to have to hack on 'em a little.
I totally agree with you on the front edge, it's a little annoying. Yeah, for that price, it should be more universal with the spacers.
I can't believe how smooth the mag sliding in and out is with these aluminum pouches. Liking it so far but still undecided if I will get more...
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I have my favorite for everything - it's just a decision to be made since it's all about personal preference.
So, can I ask what is your most used comp in 3gun?
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I have a few scars from the 90 gr rem bullet going a bit more than 1400 in a buddys gun . in fact his loads got banned from use a few years back at Steel Challenge.
The bullet imploded and cam back had to get it cut out of my arm
Really? What stage were you on? Where is this rule or prohibition listed? Was this a single occurrence or did it happen multiple times? How large was the chunk?
If it was going that fast, I wonder why it did not break apart like it should have, hmm?
Any information you can provide would be nice to hear - thanks!
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Really, there is no one favorite. Too many little factors like load, gas system, barrel length, gun weight, shooter/gun interface. When it all comes down to it, there is not a lot of difference. Some of the most heavily marketed and "loved" comps which sell for $100 and more are no better than some of the $40 to $50 comps.
Favorite is favorite, it's all based on your opinion or preference, not fact. We can have favorites all day long, it's the "best" or "top" that causes problems. Until there is some definitive, objective testing that tells us how to compare these items on an equal basis, we are just going off of subjective findings. However, there is something to be said for majority favorites. Is it a one-size-fits-all object? No. Will most others find it appealing since such a large majority already does? Probably yes.
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Take a look at the new Firebird dominator comp. Probably not on the website yet but look in the dealer forum. I just got mine. I love it. I'm still a fan of the F2 as well.
It looks nice, please keep me updated as you use it more...Thanks
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Wow, really? No one?
Okay, has anyone tried this Clark Carbon Fiber handguard? http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4998/Product/CLARK_CUSTOM_AR_15_CARBON_FIBER_HANDGUARD
Thanks for any input...
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Are you talking about shooting groups, as in, for accuracy?? If so, you should take as much time needed to get everything lined up and break the trigger without disturbing that picture. There is no need to rush but at the same time, if you wait five minutes to break a shot, you will fatigue yourself. It's a balance but I have never heard of shooting groups for accuracy with a timer - it's contradictive to the point. For most people, knowing that a timer is running will play on their conscience get them to do things they normally wouldn't.
I know mentally that I usually break my shots about 3-5 seconds after I am set up. That's more of mental picture of what I've done for years and years of shooting. That's also about the time you have for a respiratory pause but I really don't incorporate that much into pistol shooting.
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This really should have been a poll.
It is now
Please go to http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=131154 and vote, thanks everyone!
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Please vote and comment as desired...Thanks
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There are a bazillion posts on the forums here that talk about light/heavy bullets and Limited/Open guns. In a nutshell, in a Limited type gun, you want slow, heavy bullets moving slow to lower the perceived recoil. In Open guns, just the opposite. I am assuming that you are shooting a .40 Limited/Production type gun so the one with more of a push would be the 200, and the 155 would be more snappy and sharp which usually causes more muzzle rise. Not always the case depending on grip, springs, weight, etc.
Just scan the General Reloading area and you will come across multiple posts, no searching needed
Just wondering - did you change your avatar?? or am I thinking of someone else?
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What is the aprox cost of all these upgrades? seems like you could double the cost of the gun...
If you get a ton of expensive parts but normally should be no more than $300-400 for most upgrades. My gunsmith did mine for about that much and he welded the carrier, opened the well, the tube and polished it, drilled and tapped for release and put it on, took off the older stuff, put new springs in, put in an oversized safety and worked the safety, drilled and tapped the front sight, and a few other small things...I already had a lightened bolt from another guy and I was ready. I'm doing the same thing to my M2 this week with him. If you need contact info, I can send it to you...
The parts I listed in the first post cost about $300-400 without labor. What r u leaving out?
Yeah, you are right. However, I was saying "most" of the parts that really help the shotgun run better/more comfortable should be less. That is a great list, by the way! And you're right, the bolt does look awesome!
Have you ever tried the Hi Viz Four-in-One sight set? I'm thinking of putting that on my M2
The only thing you really need on this list is the mag extension. Well you don't even need that if you can load really fast. The 2nd thing most people need is the lifter weleded. Those two can be done for $120 last time I checked.
I have 2-3 different fiber optic beads on my 4 Benellis. The one I personally like best is the one I listed. I am nto sure if I have the one you mention or not. Post a link so we can check it out.
Thanks!
Here it is... http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=639204
SLP tearing up brass
in Shotgun - Technical
Posted
What does your bolt/carrier look like? Is there anything there protruding that would be opening these up like a soda can?