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gng4life

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Posts posted by gng4life

  1. Nimitz

    Where are you going to get this 24" barrel?? Would like to have one myself!!

    Hey Tom and Nimitz,

    I just purchased a 24" M2 barrel from MGW, they had the best price I could find around. Also, very nice to deal with and very fast shipping with a tracking number provided. Here is their info:

    Midwest Gun Works

    1101 Mason Circle Dr. South

    Pevely, MO. 63070

    Phone: 636-475-7300

    Fax: 636-475-7303

  2. There are several ways people go about it but the best one, especially if you are new, is go by the reloading manual. Every load in every book I've ever seen had the OAL listed. The second best way is by word-of-mouth of the posters here on this forum and others. Most come here with tons of experience and that experience will help shorten your search for "the perfect load".

    There is tons of info on the forum, here are a few that are easily searchable:

    http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=115199&st=0&p=1306792&hl=+determine%20+oal%20&fromsearch=1entry1306792

    http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=112185&st=0&p=1273635&hl=+determine%20+oal%20&fromsearch=1entry1273635

    http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=102451&st=0&p=1166809&hl=+determine%20+oal%20&fromsearch=1entry1166809

    http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=101345&st=0&p=1155948&hl=+determine%20+oal%20&fromsearch=1entry1155948

    Good luck...

  3. Although I have never had to use the customer service, I have heard they are good. I have used Leupold ( I messed up my Deltapoint), C-more (board failure), and Insight (mRDS failed) customer service and all of them were great! One thing I have noticed about the gun industry is that most big-name manufacturers are very good about customer service. I doubt you can go wrong with a Trijicon but let us know how it goes.

  4. If you have a load picked out now, you need to go and run the Burkett Timing Drill. I really think that this helps the shooter get a better feel for the cadence of the gun and feel. You should run this drill every time you change something on the gun.

    Can you refresh my memory on the Timing Drill? I use to have all his DVDs but I sold them. Thanks

  5. I would have someone stipple your grip or if you are handy with a soldiering iron, you can do it yourself. G-man Bart posted some instructions to DIY a few years back. You also might want to looking at getting a grip already complete and then sell your stock grip. I like Jim Shanahan's grip at Advanced Performance. His web is:

    http://www.advancedp...g.com/page2.php

    I have three of his grips on STI guns and I love them! My next favorite is the one by Derek at Millennium.

    I heard about the Dawson grip tape and they look promising but I never tried them. Problem with those is that you have to keep changing tape and I hate that. Get a grip or modify yours and be done with it.

    Good luck!

  6. Yeah, I checked into the same thing a few months ago. I purchased an M2 with a 28" barrel at a killer price. Even with cutting, I would have still made out pretty good but I found a buyer who wanted the 28 and I took that money, added some and got a 24". I like the 21" also but if you read the post I put up, the 24" seemed to be better for longer range steel and such (according to more of the experts). Also, I was at a match last year where the guys with the 21" were having problems with a Texas Star but the guys with the longer barrels cleaned it easier.

    The 21" is probably more useful but I like the 24 so I can get more velocity for the longer targets. Plus, I like the +6 extension that comes almost even with a 24".

    It's probably more about personal preference but this is what I picked up from the expert shotgunners on here so I went with the 24.

  7. Looking to get a couple of these....quick question: At what point does one have to declare pistol or rifle? Is there a better choice? e.g. maybe a pistol can be made into a rifle at a later time or vice versa? Please advise.

    My last understanding was that at build time is when you have to decide. You can go from pistol to rifle but not vice-versa. I'll have to check to see if that's still the case. I use to be an FFL but that was decades ago...

  8. Not sure if it helps any but on my M2 with a 24" barrel, the +6 is very close to being flush. On a 22", it should be close with the +5.

    Here is a chart for the 930/935 line that might help also, measure from the end of the factory tube:

    +2 - 5.96 inches

    +3 - 8.49 inches

    +4 - 10.26 inches

    +5 - 11.80 inches

  9. I would try a U-Die but it still will not take all the bulge out. Make sure you are adjusting your die to go down to the shellplate and only have a paper's width distance between the two. The only real option is to have them rolled and that's quite pricey.

  10. Probably something that doesn't need to mentioned but just to make sure - the very first mod would be a longer mag tube to ensure you have at least 8 round capacity. It is vital to have the max capacity to start with, just as Benny said also. My first M1 I ran with 5 rounds a couple times and it really sucks, get the extension.

  11. This happened to me last Saturday. I finished shooting the last stage of our local match. I showed clear, hammer down and holstered. I engaged the lock on my (new) Double Alpha race holster. RIC was announced by the RO. I turned to leave the stage and my pistol fell to the ground. I then said, "Stop. RO I have dropped my gun." She had everyone clear the COF. While she was clearing the COF I tightened the adjustment screw on the holster and pulled the cam back to the up postion. She then picked up my pistol, checked it for clear, put the hammer down, and handed it to me. I checked it for clear, put hammer down, and holstered (triple checking it was locked in).

    I thought I was DQ'ed for sure. The CRO was also on our stage and informed me that I was very lucky she had call RIC before the gun fell and that I was not DQ'ed.

    I have been running this holster for 3 months now without a problem. The locking cam on the Double Alpha will sometimes slide to the bottom locked postion after running the COF. I holstered on top of the cam and engaged the lock so I thought it was in safely. Lesson learned very cheaply! :sick:

    You said, "...sometimes slide to the bottom..." - how many times has this happened? I have been running a DAA RM for about 6 months now and I haven't seen it. How long was it after the RIC until it fell? Thanks

  12. Thanks...

    I wasn't thinking of adding them during the match but before it starts since they always list what shot/slug must be used during the CoF for that match. Besides, the front sight portion of this Hi Viz looks like most other F/O front sights so I don't see the disadvantage here and it's the same price as most other front sights alone. Do you have another suggestion besides the Comp?

  13. It's what I use since some of my other 9mm guns don't like the JHP. I never used the MG 124 JHP so I can't compare them but I did see a post on here a few months about that comparison. Nothing significant...

  14. Any good or bad comments about these sights for the Benelli M2??

    Thanks!

    Here it is... http://www.midwayusa...ctNumber=639204

    Yes, they are rifle sights, you have a shotgun!

    Keep it a shotgun; get a good solid fiber optic ft. bead and youre good!

    I was thinking about adjustments for slugs, thought this would do the trick when I do shoot them - which isn't often. That's why I like these, you can remove the rear sight easily when you are not shooting slugs. Am I going about this wrong? Thanks

  15. Be clareful. The answer is not absolute. If the shooter is "having a bit of trouble", then RIC must not yet be declared by the RO.

    If the gun drops after RIC is declared by the RO, it is not a DQ as long as the shooter does not touch the gun. If he does touch the gun, then a DQ would apply under 10.5.1.

    This is why it is very important that the RO do his job correctly. Only call RIC when the handgun is properly hostered and the shooter has released his grip.

    :cheers:

    Hi George, can you clarify that? My understanding is that if the RO calls RIC, then that stops the CoF, correct? So what you are saying is there is a possibility that if the shooter was still fumbling with their firearm (during the re-holster/re-bagging process) and it drops after the RO calls RIC, then the shooter could be DQ'ed? How? That is more of a mistake of the RO, not the shooter. It is our responsibility as ROs to ensure the firearm is correctly and safely secured so the culpability lies back on the RO for not ensuring the pistol was secured.

    I just can't see any way possible that the shooter could be a DQ if the RO calls RIC and the shooter follows 10.5.14. Please correct me or give me more info since I'm a little confused now...Thanks for the help!

    I don't think my comments above were unclear. Yes, there is a possibility that the shooter could be DQd after RIC if he is still fumbling (handling by rulebook definition) with his gun. I referenced Rule 10.5.1.

    This whole part of the thread has been about RO responsibility to NOT issue RIC until after the handgun has been properly cleared and holstered. Failing to correctly perform that duty exposes the shooter to unnecessary risk of DQ.

    Something like that happening leads to arguments and the RM would be expected to take that RO to school. If I understand correctly the scenario mentioned from last year's Nationals, that is essentially what happened.

    I know if I were the shooter and was DQd, I would be bringing out my $100 if the RM didn't deal with it correctly.

    OK?

    :cheers:

    Gotcha, I was referring to the technical aspects of dropping a gun and a DQ, not RO responsiblity.

    The "fumbling" is ambiguous so that is not clear about the actions there were taken at that point, just have to make sure there was no handling at that point.

    Thanks for the again...

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