2MoreChains
-
Posts
1,182 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by 2MoreChains
-
-
Isn’t the correct answer to have one of each caliber? .45 because .45. .40 because gamer. 9mm because 2 extra rounds.
-
I needed a comp on the end of my 16” barrel so the shot timer could pick up the sound of the shot without the RO having to crowd me. Without any muzzle device it was almost hearing-safe w/out any ear pro.
Miculek comp and drilled it out.
-
I wear contacts but need 1.5 readers for close. Two years ago I thought I was just sucking after not shooting all summer but realized it was because my front sight was blurry. A shooting buddy wears 0.75 diopter lenses to shoot so I tried them and it was like “hello front sight, I’ve missed you...” But 0.75 was a little too strong and made the targets blurry, so I bought a pair of 0.5 safety glasses on Amazon. That’s been working well for me.
-
Leatherheads!
-
My opinion: for the divisions that limit us to 8 or 10 rnds (SS, Prod, L10) I want the slide stop to be operational. For Limited it doesn’t matter as much since I hope to never go empty during a stage but have modified my mag’s followers to not trip the slide stop when empty.
-
I tried a bunch of mag pouches for SS and finally landed on the DAA Racers like others have mentioned. What I like about the DAA’s (other than can position bullet forward or out) is the tensioning is from the rear of the mag instead of from the sides like most conventional pouches are. Advantage I found with the tension being from the rear (as with other brands such as Ghost) is less chance of the mag binding when pulling it out. I found with a couple other pouch brands the mag would bind if not drawn at the right angle.
-
I put one on a Safariland outer belt as well. I removed the belt studs and tried it for a few matches with the ratchet installed in the existing holes on the Safariland belt. Then once I liked where it was I drilled the mounting holes for both sides of the ratchet.
I like it. Makes putting the belt on much easier than lining the studs up with the holes, and like Teedoff said its very secure and you can cinch it down however tight you like. 34” waist and I got the regular size ratchet. Its a cheap upgrade and well worth it IMO.
-
Cool build! Who made the basepad on the extra mag (the blue one)? Thx
-
Problem with low-ready is there are many different opinions about what that means to different people. Putting a mark on the stage somewhere, be it on a wall, prop, barrel that people have to have the muzzle pointed at whenever requiring "low-ready" seems like a good solution. We did that for stages at last year's Area 1 when doing the final setup. Not sure what they did at Optic Nats since I wasn't there.
The last WSB I wrote for this scenario was: "Stock on shoulder, muzzle pointed at mark on barrel" with no mention of the term "low-ready". Depending on the stage, may want to have two marks if there are a couple different start locations on the stage.
Other start positions such as stock on belt, muzzle point downrange is fine for the most part IMO. As is starting with the gun on a table. It just behooves the WSB writer to clearly state what they want and don't leave the shooter guessing or assuming something that wasn't intended.
-
That's what I did. Cmore on the upper receiver rail, Vortex 45 deg mount with Razor mounted to the handguard's rail.
-
I would consider myself a beginner in PRS-style rifle shooting. Last fall I bought an RPR in 6.5CM, mounted a Vortex Viper PST 6-24x, and have been having a lot of fun. I'm probably biased, but I think its a good combo to start out on. Plenty of options down the road to upgrade the stock, handguard, barrel, brake, bolt shroud, trigger, etc. I see quite a few RPRs at local matches.
I got my wife behind the gun not too long ago. Less than 5 rnds in and she was dinging 8" plates at 550.
-
Why not specify in the WSB that both hands must be behind head with fingers interlaced.
-
I recently installed a couple of Seekins ambi safeties on a couple AR's that have Hyperfire triggers. I couldn't remove the original safety without removing the trigger group. Oh well, took advantage of the opportunity to give the lower a really good cleaning, especially on the AR9...
I find it easier to engage the safety using my trigger finger (right handed). Plus there have been a stage or two that I started with the gun on the left side, so easier to disengage it with my left thumb using the ambi.
-
We'll never know if the round was loaded light after it was shot, will we? Statistically you might say that it is a pretty low likelihood of it happening, but even a 1 in 1,000 could sneak thru unless you chrono every round shot.
-
14 hours ago, Nik Habicht said:
Call the RM every-time you adjust too, right? You're not going to convince me, that calibration is perfect when a competitor centerpunches a popper and it doesn't fall, but it falls to the RM's bullet minutes later.....
What if the round was loaded light?
-
1 hour ago, motosapiens said:
Are you saying you don't practice?
What's this practice you speak of?
-
I agree. I've been looking for a small basepad to put on the ends of my 20 or 32-rnd metalforms if for no other reason than to blunt the hard corners. A 10-rnd mag with short basepad (doesn't even have to be a + extension) would be good for the mandatory reload stages.
A while back before TF started making the +10 extension, somebody posted that TTI Glock extensions can be made to work with the Metalform mags. I don't have any of those to try, but maybe somebody else does?
-
I have an Arredondo chamber flags that inserts partway into the chamber. Other than being really dirty it hasn't melted or otherwise deformed after 6 months of fairly regular use at matches.
-
Pulled in this evening after driving down from Idaho in the rain and snow. Snow flurries with mixed rain from about Fillmore all the way passed Cedar City. Actually Cedar was near white-out conditions. Fortunately descending down into St. George was a return to blue skies and dry roads. Looking forward to being here this week. A ton of work has already gone into getting the stages on the ground!
-
21 hours ago, BoyGlock said:
Is 5.56 brass interchangeable with .223?
.223 Wylde chamber and you can shoot either.
-
I did what you're doing and tried a combination of spring/buffer weight/loads. Kind of what's working for me right now is the Spikes ST-9X, Tubbs Flat wire buffer spring, CMMG bolt (with the weight in it), and a powder puff load that is 132 PF out of a 16" bbl. I did try a JP SCS, and that was nice. Unfortunately did not have opportunity to shoot it side by side, but I don't think the two are very far apart. I played around with the various combo's doing bill drills @ 15 yds and also going by feel to find the combination I liked.
As far as comp, currently using Miculek comp bored out to 7/16". The comp does make a difference IMO, but I was looking for something that the shot timer could pick up more reliably so the RO doesn't have to be super close all the time.
Last couple of matches I've been playing around with an offset dot in addition to a CMore on top. I've been finding it easier to get into position for the hard leftside leans (I'm right handed) and also for shooting on the move. Not sure why, but I feel more stable on the move with the offset than using the upright red dot.
-
When I first started loading .223 I quickly realized that as with most rifle reloading most of the effort is in brass prep. I do my brass prep using a single stage press and once the prep is done I switch to the Dillon 550 for charging and seating the bullet.
Brass prep essentially looks like this:
Sizing/decapping die is in the single stage press. After tumbling I sort my brass from .223 and any 5.56mm that has a crimped primer. The .223 brass is resized/decapped then checked using a case gauge for headspace and length. Any brass that needs trimmed is set aside. For 5.56 brass with the crimp, I size/decap and headspace gauge it, but then add an extra step with a Dillon swagger to remove the primer crimp. Any brass that needs trimmed is set aside to be trimmed.
Once all the brass prep is done I move over to the Dillon 550. Station 1 of the tool head is empty since all the brass has already been sized and deprimed. Station 2 has the powder die and measurer. Station 3 is the seating die, and Station 4 is the crimp die. At this point the operation is essentially the same as loading pistol, minus the sizing, but I still need to seat the primer on the upstroke.
I suppose if all I had was .223 brass with no mil crimp the brass prep would be much simpler and I could probably do it all on the Dillon 550, however my brass is all range pickup and there's always a bunch of 5.56 brass mixed in especially if I am scrounging brass at a match.
-
I went from an A2 birdcage (drilled out to 7/16") to an early production Odin Atlas comp bored out to 9mm dimensions, to a Miculek comp (also drilled out to 7/16"). Of the three, seemed like the Miculek had the most effect on minimizing recoil and directing the most sound towards a shot timer. Before, when using the A2 the shot timer had to be very very close to pick up the shot. Better with the Odin and best with the Miculek.
-
I guess it depends on what you consider "cheaper". Initially I was using an $89 Primary Arms micro dot. It ran just fine on my PCC for about 2K rounds. Prior to that it was used on an AR15. Only reason I stopped using it on my PCC was because I like the more open sight picture of a C-More.
Rules, Rulings, Clarifications & Opinions?
in USPSA/IPSC Rules
Posted
“RM1 this is RM3, Troy, can you come to stage 9, gentleman here says he has an email from you telling him XXXX is OK.”
”RM1, on my wayyyyyyy!”
Problem solved.