2MoreChains
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Posts posted by 2MoreChains
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For me it's all in the trigger prep. I found that I have to be a little more deliberate than when shooting a 1911/2011. The difference in grip angle has never really bothered me, but doing a bunch of dry fire prior to a match always helps.
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I run tec-locks on the back of my shell caddies for 3-gun, but even with the addition of some 3M velco on the backs of them I don't get good adhesion between the inner/outer belts.
For mag pouches on a Limited rig, since I don't take those on/off my belt (even in 3-gun) I want something that locks down tight and doesn't interfere much with the velcro on the belts. I currently have the Ghost mag pouches but they are loose on the belt so I've been eye-balling the DAA mag pouches as a good option since the belt attachments look to be very secure and not much bulk on the backing.
But if you shoot multiple divisions and only have one belt I can see the value of easy-on/off gear.
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Got a Gen4 G34 back in Nov. Its been running just fine, no issues (other than I hate those stock sights!). I really like the addition of the beavertailed backstraps. Those keep me from getting slide bite and ought to be PRD legal since they are factory provided. I still find the grips to be a little slick, so added a pre-cut grip tape from Dawson Precision. Muy bueno.
On my Gen3 G35 I had the Warren/Sevigny sight combo. Good sight, its just that over time I found the rear notch (.156") to be a little too wide for my liking. I changed those out to a Heinie Slant Pro rear (.125") and a .105" Dawson fiber optic front sight. I liked that sight set up so much that when I sold my G35 I put the same sights on my G34. Dawson sells the rear sight and recommends .225"T front sight. Shoots POA/POI near as I can tell.
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I use the plastic spacers that came stock with my 9mm 2011 mags. The 9mm followers are shorter in length that the followers for a 38S or .40SW and are sized to account for the spacer. I've heard of some people being able to use their mags set up for .38S and still make 9mm run reliably, but I don't know if they are loading long or not.
As far as the basepads, I've used the ones I've had for .40 and 9mm interchangeably. Seems to work OK.
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2011 or 1911? Assuming you mean 2011.
I can get 23 rnds of 9mm in my 140mm mag tubes with Grams followers, 11 coil spring, and Dawson +1 basepads.
I have some TTI basepads on a couple of my .40SW mags I use for Limited. I can get 21 in those, but they were tuned by TTI and you have to give them a pretty good smack to seat fully.
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Up until now I've predominantly shot SS in .45acp (its the gun I have), but my wife's 1911 is chambered in .40SW so last fall I shot a few matches with that gun in SS. It might be because in 2013 I mostly focused on Limited division where I shoot .40SW, but I found I much prefered shooting SS in .40SW for the slightly snappier recoil of the .40 and as a result I was able to track my sights better and this showed in my splits.
Of a lesser importance, but still pretty convenient was I could make-ready with 9 in the mag instead of having to barney and I'm already loading a lot of.40SW and can use the same load. These days I'm mostly shooting .40 and 9mm, so leaving the press set up for SP primers is a time savings.
So this winter I'm having a new SS gun built that will be chambered in .40SW.
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I'm running a .160"T DP front sight on my .45acp Trojan. IIRC, the rear sight is 8 or 10 clicks up from the bottom. No issues.
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I got my hands on some e3 and worked up a load using 180 gr moly-coated FP (similar to Bayous). Shot out of a 6" STI 2011 at 34 deg F. Mixed brass, CCI SP, 1.175" OAL.
3.5 gr of e3: Ave 893 fps, 160 PF
3.7 gr of e3: Ave 948 fps, 170 PF
3.9 gr of e3: Ave 996 fps, 179 PF
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I worked up a load using eE3 with 200 gr moly-coated SWCs (similar to Bayous).
1.265" OAL, mixed brass, CCI LPP, 5" STI Trojan:
4.3 gr of e3: Av 830 fps, 166 PF
4.5 gr of e3: Av 851 fps, 170 PF
4.7 gr of e3: Av 897 fps, 179 PF
Recoil felt very similar to my load using 4.3 gr of Hodgdon Clays. Soft, clean, and minimal smoke (not enough to notice unless shooting directly into the sun). e3 is interesting stuff for sure. Given that Clays is hard to find right now, e3 may be a good substitute.
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Dawson's, Shooters Connection... its all good. However I'd probably get the gun and shoot it a bunch first to see if I wanted to change anything before sending it off to be hard chromed. Metaloy does a great job and turn around is pretty quick.
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For me it would depend if I needed the money from selling the Edge to pay for the new gun. But on the other hand, used guns usually don't fetch what we paid for them new...
My first 2011 was a 5" Eagle in .40SW. I shot it for a couple of years then got the itch to have a 6" 2011 built. Once the 6" gun was done I had a 5" 9mm top end built for the Eagle. Yeah, that cost me another $700 clams or so, but I've had a lot of fun with that 9mm "Eagle" shooting 3-gun, Steel Challenge or whenever major PF wasn't needed. When I travel out of town to major matches I put the Eagle's .40SW top end back on and bring it along as my back-up gun. Knock on wood, I haven't needed to use it yet, but there is comfort in knowing that it is there if needed.
But sometimes it all comes down to the money... One thing is for certain, I would hang onto the Edge until the new gun shows up and you get used to it.
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I'm with the suggestions to start reloading. In fact, seeing as you already have guns that you can shoot at your local matches, I'd probably invest in a Dillon before buying a new gun. I shoot a match a week, sometimes two, plus whatever practice time I can squeeze in. I can keep up with my ammo needs by reloading on a 550 for 1-2 hrs a week. When I have spare time on my hands I'll load extra and get ahead for when I'm busy in the evenings or out of town.
And this is coming from a guy who started shooting 3-gun with a 1911, went to a Glock 35 for the higher mag capacity, then made the switch to a 2011 for pretty much the same reasons you stated. But I was already reloading at the time... With the cost savings from reloading (buying factory .223... shudder) you can probably afford to buy a 2011 and keep the G35. Besides, .40 minor is a completely different animal than .40 major.
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My comment was concerning paper GM's. Or any paper class.
If you need GM or any thing behind yer name so bad that you would shoot stages over and over...you were not hugged enough or weaned too early.
There are those that earned where they are...and be it D or GM...I respect them.
Or deserving... I think what Moto is getting at is you "deserve" to be in the lower classes for a long time if you don't practice and work on improving your skills.
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As a shooter, I've reshot a handful of classifiers in the past, but I've not done it in quite some time. I suppose I stopped because I think my first attempt is a reflection of my shooting abilities, which translates into my classification, and is also a good representation of how I shoot any other stage at a local or major match. Purely a personal thing.
As a MD I allow it in keeping with what the rulebook says, and I don't recall if I've ever had the request to do more than one re-shoot. But I do like the idea of raising the reshoot fee. I'll have to ponder that if we start to get a rash of classifier reshoots.
Its funny how I will feel down in the dumps even if I have a good match but tank the classifier, but my post-match spirits are pretty good if I shoot a good classifier but had a lousy match... Maybe its because the classifier score is part of something bigger, whereas match score (especially at a local match) is just for bragging rights which only lasts until the next weekend.
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I had an opportunity to shoot a couple of Glocks this weekend to compare the Vanek Classic and the Zev Fulcrum trigger side by side. My impressions were that the Vanek had the lighter trigger of the two, but it was more of a rolling break. It felt very similar to to the Gieselle (sp?) S3G trigger on my AR. The Zev had a crisper break to it, but it felt heavier than the Vanek.
It was also 9 deg out, so my judgement may have been a little impaired.
For those that have shot these two triggers, is this an accurate assessment of the two triggers?
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Like BlueVFrank said, it depends on which mags you use/get. I have some 9-rnd Tripp Cobra .40SW mags that the longest OAL I can load to is 1.165". Which is a PITA because I normally load .40 to 1.180" for my 2011's. If I get serious about shooting SS in .40 (right now when I shoot SS it is in .45), I will probably sell the .40SW mags and replace them with 10mm mags so I can use the same ammo I load for Limited.
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Sorry to ask the obvious question, but have you contacted the builder to ask him/her about any of this?
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Any chance you can find one of each at your local matches and shoot them for yourself to see which one you like more?
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If you're only going to have one gun-to-shoot-them-all, I say get it in .40SW.
I did that a few years ago, but then one thing led to another and now I have a 6".40 for USPSA and a 5" 9mm for 3-gun, IDPA, Steel Challenge and anything else where making major PF is not needed.
Damn things have a way of multiplying...
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I started out with a simple S&A MSH/magwell and it worked just fine. Then after a couple of years I got a hankering for a magwell that encircled the entire grip and tried out a few (Dawson ICE w/ Gap, Techwell XT) and settled on the Techwell SP. The only downside to the Techwells, if you even want to call it that, is you need to use their grips or modify your own by cutting in the corresponding cuts for the locking lugs to secure the magwell to the frame. The big magwells such as the Dawson ICE or Techwell XT require mags with pretty tall basepads. If you get the Dawson ICE No-Gap I'm pretty sure you also need to get the Dawson No-Gap basepads for your mags.
As far as mags, I have a eclectic collection of Wilson 47DE (the ones with the extended basepads, Wilson ETMs, Tripp Cobramags, and a few CMC Powermags. They all seem to work just fine, but the basepads on the 47DEs need to be ground down slightly to fit the box. Like Steel1212, I usually have a bunch in my bag so I don't have to clean mags after every stage. I tend to shy away from the mags with the welded bases since they are harder to clean.
There are a bunch of options for mag pouches, just make sure you get enough. I wear six on the belt.
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The Beretta has an ambi-safety, right? So when it gets bumped off, is it the right side hitting something or is the side of your body flipping it off?
For competition I like ambi-safeties on my 1911/2011's but for carry I stick with a single sided safety (assuming you are right handed). A good holster that has a sweat shield with the thumb safety molded into the leather (or kydex) will also prevent the safety from coming off while in the holster.
My preference for carry 1911's is the Officer frame size with 4" slide, but I have also carried a 5" 1911 on occasion. The holster makes a big difference.
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It could be they lock-tited the threads of the guide rod. Heat usually helps... if you have a soldering iron, place the tip close to where the two halves mate up and hold it there for 10 secs or so.
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I'm probably biased because I have a .45acp Trojan. It is the gun I bought when I first started shooting USPSA and it's like an old friend. The barrel and some of the small parts have been replaced, but the trigger job it got 5 yrs ago with stock parts is still holding at 2 1/4 lbs. The finish wore pretty badly, so this summer I had it cerakoted and that's been holding up pretty well even to kydex.
If your budget is $1,500, I think you'd be fine getting a Trojan, then use the rest for mags (6-8), a magwell, holster, mag pouches, and a good belt.
But if I was me, I'd get it in .40SW.
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Awesome, the world needs more SS shooters! Somebody recently referred to SS shooters as luddites, but why do things the easy way????
Mags, get lots of mags. I carry 6 on the belt and have 2 more in my bag for some of the long stages with lots of steel. If you think your trigger pull weight is holding you back, get it lightened. If you're happy with it, run it.
newbie really wants try out USPSA...what division?
in USPSA/IPSC Shooting
Posted
I say if you have the equipment to shoot both SS and L-10 then you should shoot them both and determine which one you like better or find more competition at your local club. I would say that L-10 gives you a little more freedom in selecting equipment and placement on your body, but from a stage planner perspective I don't see much difference between the two.
One obvious advantage I see is having a couple extra rounds on tap for make-up shots, but seeing as our rulebook has guidelines on what stage designers can and cannot do with regard to the number of rounds required per shooting location, I probably do as much reloading in L10 as I do in SS. i.e. Shoot 6, reload while moving to the next array that has four paper tagets, shoot 8, reload while moving, shoot 4 steel (with 6 shots...), reload while moving then shoot 8 in the last array to finish... doesn't really seem to matter on a lot of stages if I have 8 or 10 in the mag.
Aren't there a lot of discussions about how little advantage the two extra rounds SS minor gives you with 10+1 capacity compared to shooting SS major with 8+1? So wouldn't that same argument apply to the difference in stage planning between SS and L10? Granted, every now and then you find a stage where the designer intentionally or inadvertently allowed you to engage some targets from multiple locations, and this is where the PRD, L-10, and SS-minor guys with the 10+1 capacity may be able to devise a stage plan that is -1 reload from what the SS shooters have to do.
I shot SS for quite a while before getting lured into Limited, but I like to mix it up and will also shoot SS, L10, and PRD for the variety as well as to keep certain skills fresh. Its all good, and isn't the mantra run whatcha brung?