2MoreChains
-
Posts
1,182 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by 2MoreChains
-
-
I have a 5" SLDC 2011 and a 6" built on a 2011 Tactical frame. The 5" is nothing special being a stock Eagle, but the 6" was my first custom build. A local GS who also competes (or maybe he's a local competitor who also gunsmiths...) built it for me. There was definitely an adjustment period to get used to the extra length and weight of the slide when doing transitions with the 6" gun, but I love it for the accuracy of the longer sight radius (plus the GS did a really nice job fitting the barrel). We took a little weight off the slide so now the overall weight of the gun is 38.0 oz, and that helped a little but mainly it was just a matter of getting used to it (hey, by comparison my 5" 1911's weigh about 39 oz...).
That said, the next 2011 I have built is probably going to be a 5.5" gun. Sorry, that probably doesn't help you at all... LOL!
-
If you like how the gun clicks in and out of Bladetech holsters but don't like how the DOH angles the gun in towards your leg you might give the Ben Stoeger BOSS hanger a try. I got one of those hangers that I share between my Production and Single Stack rig, but don't see why you couldn't also use it for Limited/3-gun. The hanger holds the gun in a straight up-down position, and does not angle the muzzle in towards your leg. The hanger and bracket are pre-drilled for a wide range of height (which near as I can tell are legal for all the USPSA divisions). The offset comes from two spacers that fit over the screws that hold the holster's bracket to the hanger and is also adjustable for muzzle forward or rear cant, and no worries about meeting the 2" rule (I measured).
-
Could the button be interfering with being able to push the mag catch all the way in?
-
Does the problem persist if you switched back to the stock mag catch? For a while I was using one of those EGW higher mag catches and I found it took a pretty good smack to seat them. Filing down the basepad where it prevents the mag from being over-inserted can help with that, but eventually I took the gun to my gunsmith who polished the feedramp so I didn't need to use the EGW higher mag catch.
-
Somewhere between 4.5 and 4.7 gr of N320 ought to do it. I run a 6" Kart in my 2011 and 4.6 gr with a 185 gr moly bullet went 174.8 PF at Area 1 this year.
-
I also shoot matches because I enjoy them, and I enjoy 3-gun as well as USPSA pistol matches. I'm fortunate that where I live each month you can shoot 3 L1 USPSA matches and one 3GN 3-gun match within 15 to 45 minutes drive of my house. On some weekends when the yard doesn't need attention I can shoot a match on Sat and Sunday if I am willing to drive 2 hrs. USPSA pistol is by far the dominant of the two sports and I enjoy 3-gun for what it is, but I just shoot local 3-gun matches. Its the challenge of competing with all three guns and developing that skill that draws me.
That said, the higher cost of 3-gun and the extra time it takes (which I don't have a lot of in the summer) to maintain proficiency with all 3 guns is tough, and admittedly I don't get in as much practice time with the shotgun and rifle as I would like. But I still enjoy plugging away at local matches and lately its been starting to come together for me better than it was 4 or 5 yrs ago when I first started 3-gun so that is reqarding in of itself. Personally the 3GN method of scoring (1A or 2 hits anywhere) doesn't bother me, and I just look at that as license to unleash even more speed and hose away at the close range paper targets unless there are no-shoots or partial hardcover. Fortunately (or unfortunately as the case may be) our local matches will also incorporate quite a bit of rifle steel from 100-600 yds or slugs out to 100 yds, which makes the 1A or 2 anywhere scoring pale by comparison. I don't know about the rest of you but hitting some of those steel targets in some of the goofy positions we come up with or from unsupported is still a challenge, especially at distance.
-
I don't think KART makes a Newlin/STI ramp cut barrel, been looking at my options.
Kart make a W/N ramped barrel in .40SW. I have one of these in a SS build and it shoots great. http://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/Kart-NM-XACT-Fit-Barrel-5-40-SW-Ramped-WN-P2494.aspx
-
I did this a few years ago and IIRC it wasn't that bad.geez......might as well buy another eagle.
Slide: ~$285
Barrel and bushing: ~$235
Sights: $40 front, $60 rear
Firing pin, FPS, extractor... say another $100
Then whatever your GS charges you to fit the slide to frame and barrel to slide, install sights and small parts...
-
+1 on the Dawson posi-lock extended mag catch. I got one that was drilled and tapped so I can add a button but the extended length is working just fine.
I'm running the Techwell SP magwell and cut the locking grooves myself into the grips I already had, but the grips that Techwear sells for the Techwell are pretty good.
Ditto on DP fiber optic front sights. I have them on all my guns.
-
Did you keep the bullet they weighed and then weigh it at home on your scale? Just curious why you think their scale was "generous". Mine (185 gr Precision moly) weighed in a 183.5 gr.
-
Great match Randy, thanks for all your hard work and the efforts of the EWPSA club!
-
You may want to try replacing components one at a time. This way if one of the mags fails it'll be easier to figure out what caused it to stop working. For instance, establish that the mags work in the first place with stock followers/springs/base pads. Then try different basepads and make sure those still work (hopefully you're capacity will increase by at least +1 round). Next try shooting the mags with the new follower/springs installed (hopefully the new follower increases capacity by another round or two). Lastly, change the spacer (or stick with the stock plastic spacer).
If you go with the Grams followers, you'll probably need to do some filing on the follower ledge to prevent the gun locking back with 1 rnd remaining in the mag. Brazos has a nice article on how to do this on their website.
I'm using stock mag bodies with Grams 9mm followers and spring kit and Dawson +1 basepads and can get 23 rnds in a 140mm mag. I'm still using the stock plastic spacers.
-
I've used a variety of holsters over the years (Bladetech, Comptac, and Center of Mass). Of the three I probably like the COM the most since it holds the pistol outboard from the body but within the 2" rule so you can get your thumb in there when establishing a grip.
That said, I just got a BOSS holster from Steoger's Pro Shop to use with my Glock for Production. I think its going to be a great holster and the BOSS hanger they developed for use with the Bladetech holster pouch is pretty awesome for how it positions the gun and range of height and cant adjustments. If I can find my old Bladetech holster for my 1911 I am going to have to put that on the BOSS hanger and give that a try. I'm pretty sure it can be adjusted to hold the front strap to be at or above the belt.
-
How about pre-positioning a safety table adjacent to the porta-johns?
Or better yet... designate the 'purse holder' conveniently already located inside the porta-john as a pistol dump box...
-
I compete with a 1911/2011 and carry a STI Guardian (4" bbl with Officer size frame). Being all steel it has some heft to it but not something I notice as long as I use a good belt and holster. For me its a toss up on weight/size vs how well I can shoot it. I can carry a Colt Mustang Pocketlite very easily, but shooting it accurately beyond 7 yds is iffy.
I suppose if STI made a Guardian with an aluminum frame I would have given it a serious look. Another option is the STI VIP if you want a hi-cap, but now we're definitely outside your price range...
-
I will on occasion shoot my Glock though my mainstay is usually a 1911/2011. For me the grip angle hasn't been much a problem when transitioning back and forth. Its the Glock trigger that I have to spend the most time getting re accustomed to and mainly on the hard/far shots.
-
Most of the changes I make to a STI are for personal preference. Sights: prefer narrow fiber optic front sights. BTGS: the stock STI BTGS causes hot spots in the web of my hand. Stippling or grip reduction: makes the wide body fit better in my hand. Barrel and bushing: depends on how accurate the stock one is. MSH: I prefer an arched one. Sear/hammer: depends on how long a trigger job will last using stock parts... I have one 2011 where the trigger job didn't last despite my GS' efforts so we swapped out the stock hammer/sear to an EGW. On the other hand the trigger job on my Trojan using stock parts still gives me a crisp 2 lb pull after 4 years... so it is still in the gun.
I use aftermarket followers and basepads in my 140 mags to increase capacity. But I haven't changed anything in my 126mm mags since when I use those I am not concerned with adding capacity and they work just fine in stock configuration.
-
Face and feet pointing directly (90°) away from the backstop with shoulders parallel to the backstop.
That one? Must have been written by an english major, lol.
That position reminds me of how ancient egyptians used to paint/carve people on their temples...
-
I jumped on the Speedcross3 bandwagon this spring after wearing cleats for a few seasons. All I can say is: Wow, me likey, I shoulda converted years ago.
-
Hmm, scars and doing it right, or soft and wrong?
Ha! I don't think we turned out too badly if I do say so myself... besides, mom took care of the corporal punishment herself, and there was plenty of that IIRC.
-
I put together a 16" upper last winter mainly from spare parts and prize table pickings. The only thing I had to buy was a barrel. I didn't try to justify it much, beyond why the hell not and because I could...
I did try and rationalize it from a HD standpoint that my wife can shoot an AR much more effectively than the 870 12 ga we also keep in the bedroom... but she saw right through me on that one and said "build it if you want".
FWIW, she did like shooting it!
-
I agree, its an education thing and if handled professionally it can resolve a lot of things. No need to be a dick about it.
My mom was a product of catholic school education in the 50's and I think she carried some of those scars for quite a long time. Which is probably why she didn't send me or my sister to the kind ministrations of Sister Mary-Francis and instead took her chances with public schools that didn't use corporal punishment as a learning tool.
"Stoke 'em up bubba" may have its uses, but not at a USPSA match.
-
Rule 10.4.3 is a sub-rule of 10.4 which is about accidental discharges. 10.4 starts off with: A competitor who causes an accidental discharge must be stopped by a Range Offier as soon as possible. An accidental discharge is defined as follows: (then goes on to cite 10.4.1, 2, and 3.
Not being there makes it hard to judge, but based on what the OP described it sure does not sound like the shot fired by the competitor was an AD as the competitor deliberately fired that last round to clear the chamber, which IMO is not an accidental discharge in the first place.
So I don't think 10.4.3 applies here.
I seem to recall a few years ago at the UPSA MG Nationals there was some controversy over 'burning a round' from your shotgun into the berm so it was empty when abandoned in the dump box. I can't remember what the final ruling was, but to me as long as it was a deliberate act, shot stayed within the berms and not within 10' of the shooter I'm having a hard time saying that is a DQ-able offense under 10.4
-
If you were weighed at 43.2 oz it won't take much to get you under the legal limit. I'm shooting a similar setup, albeit a few minor differences that make my gun come in around 41 oz.
The biggest weight savings is probably going to be in swapping out the steel MSH/magwell for an aluminum one. On one of my 1911's have an aluminum MSH with an aluminum Techwell magwell. On one of my other guns I have an aluminum S&A msh/magwell that I want to say weighs more than half of what an equivalent S&A in steel weighs. This modification alone would get you under weight.
I also run G-10 grips from Larry Davidson that are hogged out on the back when I ordered them. Exactly how much weight savings... can't say but back then I was shooting IDPA with a Trojan in .45acp when the weight limit for CDP was 41 oz so every little bit counted. Granted, a .45acp 1911 will weigh less than one chamberedn in .40, but you can easily put your gun on a diet and lose the extra .2 oz.
Sorry to hear you got bumped to Open in a SS match.
STI Trojan is killing me with feed jams
in 1911-style Pistols
Posted
Just curious, what does Tripp do to fix the feeding problem? Did he re-angle the feed ramp?
I just had a custom 1911 in .40SW built (STI frame and tri-topped slide, and a Kart barrel), and was initially experiencing what I think was the same problem where the round would jam up against the feed ramp. If I jiggled the slide I could usually get it to feed. This was usually the top round or sometimes the second round in a full mag (brand new Tripp Corey mags, same as yours), and after that the remaining rounds would feed just fine. So after I ran about 500 rnds to break it in, the gunsmith who built the gun re-cut the feed ramp back slightly and I think he also opened up the chamber opening a little. Interestingly enough, he said that when he removed the extractor the top round in the mag would feed just fine so he dressed the hook and re-tensioned the extractor.
In the second 500 rnds I've only had it jam twice, which is way better than it was before. So we're getting there, and just a few more tweaks and I think it'll be 100%. Just curious what Tripp does to .40SW 1911's to get them to run because I've read about people sending their problem .40's to him with good results. My GS is local and a fellow competitor which makes it easy for me to take the gun to him for these little tweaks. Other than the intermittent jams I really like shooting SS in .40SW (previously shot SS using a .45 Trojan).