Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

2MoreChains

Classifieds
  • Posts

    1,182
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by 2MoreChains

  1. Its been a few years since I shot a USPSA MG match, but from what I recall the rulebook gives the match organizers the choice of running the match using comstock scoring or Time Plus. Under comstock scoring the minimum caliber for major is .40 for Limited and Tactical. So that might be what you read.

    However if the match is scored using Time Plus, other than Heavy Metal division which requires a .40 cal or larger, there is no added scoring bonus for shooting a major PF pistol, in which case 9mm is pretty popular for the lighter recoil and +2 or 3 mag capacity. Time Plus is similar to 3GN or outlaw 3-gun scoring in that it requires 1A/B or 2 hits anywhere on paper to "neutralize" the target, and steel must fall. Your score is basically the raw time plus any penalties (ie miss, FTN, procedural etc...). I want to say the last few MG Nats have been run using Time Plus and more and more USPSA affiliated MG matches are run using Time Plus over Comstock since it has many similarities to 3GN and outlaw 3-gun matches. I've actually never shot a USPSA MG using comstock... but I've only been shooting 3-gun/MG since 2010.

  2. I'm using a Burris MTAC, the 1.5-6x. Been using it for a season and a half and it was a major improvement over what I was using before. I still struggle with shots at 550+ but quite a bit of that could be me. From 5 to 400 yds its nuts on with the BDC reticle, and I gained quite a bit of confidence (and local match placement) once I got it. The 1.5-6x is a big scope, but for whatever reason I forget about all that as soon as the buzzer goes off.

    That said, a friend has the Vortex 1-6x with the JM reticle and now I have scope envy. Stupid friend, he should never have let me shoot his gun... Just got a Vortex PST 6-24x for the bolt gun and I'm really liking Vortex quality. Plus they have really good CS from what I understand.

  3. Secondly, when the mag runs empty, the TTI follower sticks up above the feed lips. So much so that it caught the slide a couple of times and held it back.

    Just wondering what everyone else's experience was. I might just order a new set of Grams since I know they work?

    A friend and I both had TTI tune some mags right, and we both experienced the same problem when at empty. He called TTI and the advice we received was to give the follower/spring a slight bend to the right. It worked for both of us and we haven't had any problems since.

  4. Double undercut of the trigger guard

    Grip tape (Dawson kit works well if you're unsure about stippling)

    I like a narrow fiber optic front sight (.090")

    Dawson +1 basepads are what I am using on my 140mm mags along with Grams springs and followers and can get 23 rnds in them.

    About a year or so ago I had an EGW hammer/sear kit installed and trigger job to a little over 2 lbs. Wow.

  5. Trojan 40 + Tripp Corey mags is a tough combo to beat. Mine runs great with a 12 lb recoil spring and a 17 lb main spring. My go to load is 5.0 grains of wst under a 180 grain xtreme plated RN bullet at 1.185. The only issue I have run into so far is mine has a VERY tight chamber, most cast or coated bullets won't work and I have chamber check all my ammo for it.

    Thanks for the input, did you have to ream the chamber to load that long?

    Im buying a new trojan and ive heard the older ones had short chambers.

    Ive seen three diffrent generations of trojans I guess.

    1- big "Trojan" stamped on side

    2- big "Trojan" with horse head

    3-Small "Trojan" right above slide stop.

    Am I correct in my findings?

    I bought my Trojan in the spring of 2009. It doesn't have the Horse head, but a friend who bought one shortly before I did has it. I think they phased out the horse head sometime late 2008 or early 2009 but still came with the big Trojan roll mark.

    The small Trojan roll mark was something STI did in 2013 in response to customer feedback.

    So I guess you can kind of date a Trojan +/- a year or so by the roll marks...

  6. Better sights are a must for me. I replaced those right off the bat with Dawson FO front and a Heinie rear. Played around with a Jager FLGR and different spring weights, but after a couple FTRB while shooting SHO/WHO I went back to the stock recoil system of the Gen 4s. As long as the brass clears the ejection port I can't find anything wrong with the stock Gen 4 recoil system.

    Dropped in a Vanek Classic trigger system over the weekend and still experimenting with it, but very favorable initial impressions. I've got the 4.5 lb firing pin spring installed with the OEM firing pin and no lite strikes so far. Reset is pretty quick, and the trigger pull is pretty impressive.

  7. I am going to make a trip to a gun store to look thru a 1.5 scope.

    I had the same concern when I was looking at getting the Burris MTAC 1.5-6x, so I took my existing scope and set it on 1.5x and shot some close drills with it to see if it messed with my head or gave me a headache. It didn't, so I got the Burris and used it all last season. The 6x really helped me to see the targets at 300+ distance (I have crappy eyesight), and I didn't find the 1.5x to be a hinderance on close paper.

    The extra size and weight of the 1.5-6x took some getting used to, but to be perfectly honest once the buzzer goes off I forget about all that. For the price its a decent scope and the reticle is pretty useful out to 300-400 yds. Beyond that, a better shooter might make it work for them but my hold at 550 yds with 69 gr SMKs is the donut hole in the outer ring. Maybe it'd be better with 75 gr bullets.

    That said, I don't know how much longer I'm going to keep it if I can find something better at a price I can afford.

  8. I was fortunate to find a few pounds of e3 locally and based on information I found on this forum I worked up some pretty nice loads in 9mm, .40SW, and .45acp. I've come to really like this powder and its nice to have an alternative to N320 (9mm and .40) and Clays (.45) that up until now have been my main goto powders.

    If you don't mind how about sharing your load info with us. So far I've loaded .40 and .45 but eventually I'll probably do some .38 Special and 9mm so load data others are using always helps.

    I posted my .40 and .45 load data in those sub forums, but guess I haven't for my 9mm. Not at home where I have it written down but going off memory:

    Out of a Glock 34:

    124 gr FMJ (demilled) with 3.8 gr e3 resulted in 132 PF. Felt very similar to my load with this bullet and 4.0 gr N320.

    147 gr Precison moly FP with 2.9 gr e3 resulted in 132 PF but was really sooty.

    147 gr Precision moly. FP with 3.1 gr e3 resulted in 137 PF. Nice and clean

    147 gr Precision moly FP with 3.3 gr e3 resulted in 141 PF. Nice and clean.

  9. I was fortunate to find a few pounds of e3 locally and based on information I found on this forum I worked up some pretty nice loads in 9mm, .40SW, and .45acp. I've come to really like this powder and its nice to have an alternative to N320 (9mm and .40) and Clays (.45) that up until now have been my main goto powders.

    For 9mm I like that it fills the case above the halfway mark even with loads in the 3.1 to 3.8 range depending on my bullet. I need to do some tasters choice testing between my e3 and N320 loads to compare the felt recoil but they felt pretty soft at 132-137 PF. I also like how many loads I can get out of 1 lb of e3.

    Thanks for all the info! Now hopefully we can get some mo!

  10. I think I'd like to play around with a 9 mm in a 1911 platform. Since this is just an experiment, I want to go fairly cheap.

    Should I look for a cheaper whole gun or get a slide and barrel for my current frame? Which way would you guys go, and with which parts?

    I did this a couple of years ago and converted a 5" 2011 Eagle from .40SW to 9mm. it depends on what you call cheap, but I want to say it cost about $700 in parts (slide, barrel, extractor, FP, FPS, sights) not including my gunsmith's time to fit everything together. In the case of a 2011, it was way cheaper to do that then to buy a second gun. But in a 1911... depends on how much you like that S$W 1911 I guess.

    I went with an STI slide, Kart X-act fit barrel/bushing, STI firing pin and stop, Dawson ejector, and Dawson sights. Mine is still in the white (I'll get it finished one of the these days) but that is add cost to consider as well.

    On the other hand, I love shooting that gun. A 9mm 2011 is extremely fun, very soft shooting (I found that I much prefer shooting a 9mm instead of a .40 loaded to minor) and perfect for 3-gun with 140mm mags, Steel Challenge, or even IDPA with the 126mm mags. I even ground down an STI aluminum magwell to fit the IDPA box.

  11. I've been using the Safariland 771's for 3-gun. I can use the same mag pouch for 2011 mags as well as Glock mags -just tighten up the tension screw a little for the Glock mags. I run the first mag at an angle but the subsequent ones are upright to save room. Never had a mag fall out.

    I think the biggest limiting factor in 3-gun is how much room you have on your waist for the rifle/pistol mag pouches and shotgun caddies.

  12. I'm going off memory here, but I think to be IDPA legal the guiderod needs to be polymer. Jäger makes a polymer as well as SS guiderod for the Gen 4's that allows use of ISMI, Wolff, or GlockWorx springs (only ones I've tried).

    Shooters Connection has them for $29. I run a 12 lb GlockWorx recoil spring (blue) with my 130 PF ammo. Tried a 13 and 11 and the 12 seemed to be the right one for my load.

  13. If you order a slide flat-topped or tri-topped, I think the cost is the same ($60).

    I prefer guns that have the slide flat or tri-topped. The amount of weight lost from flat topping is probably minimal, but I like the look. I think tri-topping on the other hand does take off more weight. Near as I can tell, tri-topping is legal for USPSA, but milling slide cuts (i.e. holes) for the purpose of weight reduction is not per Appendix D.

  14. The DOH holster I originally got for my Eagle was made for the Edge. The Eagle fits fine in an Edge holster, though the extra space created from the holster being molded for a FLDC allowed my Eagle to rock forward a little, but not so much that retention was ever an issue. I used the DOH for a while then switched to a Center of Mass "race holster" that Rick makes.

    The COM holster has a hanger that extends down against your leg with a 1" thick (approx) delrin spacer that is attached down low on the hanger to create the offset. The hanger is pre-drilled so you can position the spacer block at different angles for cant as well as height, and I also use the same holster for SS, albeit set higher up to get the front strap at or above the top of the belt. COM sells these for approx $75-80, but there is a 6-7 week wait time since I think he makes them to order. What I like about the COM holster is it is legal (<2" offset), holds the pistol out far enough that you can get your thumb onto the safety, and it doesn't point the pistol inwards like the BT DOH does. The retention screws are Rick's version of a wing nut that you can turn with your finger, and the holster is well made.

    Being that I'm in Idaho I see quite a few of the COM holsters at USPSA and 3-gun matches, and COM is often a sponsor at Level II and III matches in Area 1. I know a few Open shooters that switch to the COM holster when shooting 3-gun for the extra retention/security they provide over a skeletonized race holster. I do the same and use a Manny Bragg race holster for Limited in USPSA but use the COM for Scope-tac in 3-gun.

  15. I broke with tradition. Normally I go with the parts my gunsmith suggests, but I decided to go with EGW on a build in 2012 based on what I read in this forum. Since then have had the same hammer/disco installed in two other guns. Great feel, like the looks, and my GS was able to do a really nice trigger job on all three.

    Last weekend the hammer spur on the initial gun broke off during a match. That pistol has had approx 9-10K rounds thru it. It broke pretty much where the spur is connected to the rest of the hammer. I contacted EGW and they had me return the broken hammer so they can take a look and I believe they are sending me a replacement hammer. Jim at EGW told me that shortly after coming out with the lightened EGW hammer in 2012-ish they redesigned it with slightly smaller cuts in the spur so there is more metal in the new ones than the version I bought. Comparing the broken hammer to the ones I bought in 2013 there appears to be a little extra meat on the new ones.

    Gotta love good customer service. My broken hammer experience is in no way making me shy away from EGW products.

  16. I have the extended Posilock in my Limited 2011 as well as the 2011 I use for 3-gun. When I first got the Posilock I opted for the one that was drilled and tapped thinking I might add a button. Didn't end up doing that since the extended one did the job for me, so when I got one for my 3-g gun I opted for just the Extended non-tapped. I've never had a problem with inadvertently hitting the mag release while in the holster or from loaded gun on table starts. I have med-large hands.

  17. I know you said you were looking for an adjustable rear, but in case you change your mind I put a Heinie Slant Pro rear and Dawson .105"W front sight on a G35 and G34. Good sight picture and shot great once sighted in. For the G35 I ended up pairing the Heinie with a .205"T front sight for POA/POI, but on the G34 I went with Dawson's recommendation and paired the Heinie up with a .225"T front sight which shot great and to POA. Dawson carries both front/rear sights. I believe if you go with what they recommend and it don't shoot right they will get you the right size front sight.

×
×
  • Create New...