Quack
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Posts posted by Quack
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i have a chance to get a STI tactical 4.15 in 9mm for a good price with all the gear (6 mags ect). now a commander length isnt my first pick for the gun (if it was 5" it would already be in my safe). im new to 2011 and 1911 in general but what is the difference in the frames? if i wanted to have a full size or maybe 6" slide built for it later would it work?
When I get home, I'll take a look at my Tact 4.15, vs my Edge vs. My 5" Custom.
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Have you sized the mag tubes?
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I removed some material from the trigger bow and the trigger is no longer affected when the mags get stuck. Now I just need to get them to stop sticking. Does anyone remove material from the lower inside edge of the frame? Maybe my mags are just out of shape. I want to start shooting matches with this gun in a week or two. I really need to get this issue sorted out ASAP. Anybody have any ideas?
Do you know anyone else in your area that shoots a 2011? If so, I'd recommend trying their mags in your gun and vice versa. Basically, every possibility you can eliminate from the equation gets you one step closer to a solution. It's slow going but sometimes that is the only way to figure it out. Since it is happening with multiple mags, it is unlikely that the tubes are the issue, but it is certainly possible.
As to removing material, are you referring to the frame (correct term usage) or the grip (incorrect term usage)? Most people remove material from the inside of the grip to blend it to the magwell. I have never seen material removed from the inside of the frame.
My Dad shoots a 2011. I'll borrow some of his mags and see how it goes. I'm referring to the frame itself. They seem to be binding up high where the mag starts to narrow. It feels like the mags are just going too far into the gun. I'm wondering what is supposed to stop them from doing that.
Dawson Posi-lock mag release.
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if you look at the front (top) of the trigger guard assembly, there is a small plunger. that should be what's holding the crane onto the frame.
http://www.teslamap.com/public/sp101_trigger_job/index.html
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Though not TacSol, I run kimber mags with my Marvel Unit 2
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I think my hands are similar to your's. I use flat triggers on all my 1911's, and to get the same feel on the 2011's, i use the short/flat trigger insert.
I tried a long/flat insert that came with one of my 2011's, but just didn't feel right.
anyways, is this similar to how your hands are?
i don't have any issues with it, so i don't worry about it.
on another note, when i shoot with my support hand, my trigger finger isn't and angled.
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Taste the rainbow.
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It's ok, it's good peer pressure! I'm envious, I wish I could afford a new trigger, set a lone a new 2011.
Sell your moto, once you get married and she starts popping out kids you'll have little time to ride.
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I would definitely go custom. Matt is a great gunsmith, though I've only shot one of his guns, I wouldn't hesitate to have him build me one.
I agree with the two top ends, it will IMHO, be better in the long run. Since IDPA is more defensive-oriented, have you ever thought about running a custom 2011 for USPSA and getting something like an STI VIP for IDPA?
Just get a 2011 already
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I hope you learned from Terry G. If you saw the later nutnfancy video, they had to put the stock parts back in because the 1911 had hammer follow, which was after Terry G's "trigger job"
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Blue, and shoot the snot out of it. When someone asks you why your 2011 has so much wear on it, tell them it's character, and it's because you actually use it.
I resemble that remark. LOL
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Well yours is full of scratches and just overall is in terrible condition. I'll trade you the Spartan for it so you don't have to look at it anymore.
Throw in that crappy Harley and we have a deal.
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Blue, and shoot the snot out of it. When someone asks you why your 2011 has so much wear on it, tell them it's character, and it's because you actually use it.
I resemble that remark. LOL
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Slide Glide on sliding parts, oil on pivoting parts.
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You can also get it on digital format.
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I like it, something different that the other gun magazines
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Does it run with factory mags?
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Besides a complete slide, you would need an ejector (if using a .45 host frame) and having the frame cut for a ramped barrel. You might also need a slide stop.
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Shooting Times has an article on the RRA poly.
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I played with it at SHOT. It's not a full poly frame like a Glock, it more like a 2011 with a steel frame, but the polymer covers up the dust cover all the way back. It's also a single stack. The build quality was more like a SA Loaded that a RRA 1911. For $800 (target street price) its similar to guns in the price range.
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Cabot had one at SHOT.
IIRC, it was $5000.
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Jesus, don't use green unless you don't want to get it out without heat. Clean both surfaces with solvent (acetone, brake clean whatever), Then place a small amount of RED loctite on the sights. Purple is for small fasteners but between cleaning solvents and heat purple and blue break down quickly. (blue being medium strength). Red should hold it, but if you want to take it apart you still can. The dovetail fit should slide about 1/2 way with hand pressure and should have a slight press fit and should be able to tap it in and out with a small ALUMINUM punch with the red loctite (or permatex, just make sure it's not more than 6 months old).
Hope this helps
Red loctite takes the same heat to remove as Green. The difference is that green is for assembled parts. Dawson recommends green.
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how loose?
try green loctite.
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Note: Threads merged. - Admin.
Does anyone have any hints or tricks for getting these screws out when they seize up? I tried to remove the DOH attachment on mine, only to get to the last one and find it was seized, and I couldn't think of a way to hold the non-slotted side.
Needle nose pliers to hold it.
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Where to buy M&P Shield...
in S&W (M&P, etc)
Posted
Vance's in Columbus. Ohio just got some.
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