safenate

Nick, Thanks for the reply. I was planning on running my G34 for pistol and don't have the ammo (121 + gr to load) to make major. Just got 4K rounds of MG 115 JHP. I'm 'established' in L10 Major but that was 6 years ago. I'd like to play 9Major at some point, but need to practice much more. Could i change to tactical to use Aimpoiont, and still stay L10 minor? Thanks

My first 3 gun match is this weekend at the Area 8. I registered as L-10. Does that mean i can use my Aimpoint or only irons? If i want to use Aimpoint, should i be Tactical? i also have a freefloat handguard, does that mean anything in divisions? Thanks for comments... and recommendations...

I was at the range tonight and was picking up some range brass when i noticed what i call the distinct '38 super tink'. That sound of a failed brass. I noticed several of these G.F.L. headstamps with scorched cracks most the way down the side. Note right side of pics. There is a noticed crack in the unfired load. It appeared to be factory fresh and it appeared the GFL was shot in a Storm or other carbine. The left side were reloads from a small company. Not sure how much it takes to flatten a primer that much, but i don't want to find out. It flowed back into the extractor area. Not sure if it was ammo, firearm, or combo that made it happen. No failures, that we could tell. I'll stick to my 4.5 gr of Bullseye, 115 gr @ 1.15" STAY SAFE!

SOOOO..., i swapped to the standard mag release AND it was like the gates opened before me. Ran 99 rounds, 10 magazines, NO problems. Not touching anything until after the 3 gun this weekend. Thanks all.

JT, with respect- i don't put brass in every space on the shellplate. I only load every other spot in the shellplate. One in the deprime/reprime, one getting bullet seated, then one getting powder and one getting crimped; repeat. So it is on the powder-drop. i think the dirty brass from the outdoor AND my practice of not tumbling has helped me prematurely damage my 9mm powder funnel (at least).

i'm only running 115 MTJHP's, but my G34 likes 'em at 1200 fps or so (138 PF). Load 'em up and let 'em run. Agree with the higher PF to deal with the chrono & steel as well.

Okay, now we're getting somewhere. I usually get my brass (& maybe a few 'extras') off the indoor range floor. The place is very clean and i usually don't have any grit, therefore i don't tumble/wash them. BUT, last week i shot at the outdoor (twice as far) and picked up about 100 freebies on the ground. The were a bit dirty and i didn't seperate and cleanse. My bad! Damn, now to fix my dies. It sure helps having people share their experience. Now i'll tumble more. As for the plated vs. brass debate, i'll still reload both. Thanks for the tips.

Excellent tips all. I put together another 200 rounds this morning for some draw practice and reload drills. After paying more attention to it, i MAY be contacting the release and see how many may deny it happens. I will have to look for that standard one in the parts bin. Today's handloads were 5.2 gr of AmerSel over 115 MT JHP @ 1.14?". Shot very nice, just at max load for this powder, app. 1175 fps. Nice, full case of bulky, clean-burning, cheap, powder. It ejects a few feet, sometimes straight up.

I've got 115 MT JHP in my G34. Various (range) brass, cheapest primers i can find & TG, Bullseye, Amer. select, etc. powder. I used to use VV320, but ran out and want to find a cheap/clean/econo alternative. Just shot 5.0-5.2 g under 115 gr at 1.145" and it is near max, burns clean, no soot, no flash, full case... and it is cheap. May be a winner...

Thanks for the thoughts. No, no steel cases in my mix. The carbide die has noticed scores on it and is rough on the down stroke. I only 'occupy' every other shellplate slot, ie one priming & one seating then one dropping powder and one crimping. So i know the effort is from the powder drop station. I may try the lanolin. I don't tumble my brass. I try to find powders that burn clean and i use MT Gold bullets with enclosed bases (range req'd). It makes for VERY clean air and little other mess.

I picked up some and it is bulky, preventing double-charges like TG may. It makes minor in 9mm with 115s, near max load so it is near max pressure and likely burns clean.

Thanks guys. I don't ride the release. It has the extended release, stock for G34. I may have an extra 'regular' release. The mags (7+) will on occasion lock back, but less than 50%. Each has locked back and not. The loads i'm working with are PF 130-140.

i've only been reloading 9x19 for a month or so and have less than 100 nickel plated, maybe 2000 brass. i see my dillon 550 carbide powder funnel/expander is scored, causing hard/tight downstrokes. How do i fix/prevent this? Thanks.

i bought a G34 with mod'd sights. i've been running MT JHP 115's around 1150 fps and not getting slide lock on 50% of my last rounds. Do i need a hotter round? or spring mod? or....?

Alan, Thanks, i plan on helping either way. How can i learn more? Email or call, Nate

OH Boy! I just got in my G34 and found out the wife will be out of town that weekend. i live about 2 hours away and want to know if there is still room for a novice to get in? I haven't done any competitive shooting since 02 when i was a C L-10. I have some tactical experience and would like to bring my AR with Aimpoint & Mossberg 590 to finish the round up. Any luck Alan? I'll come up to watch either way, but would like to get my first 3 gun experience. Thanks for comments!

Barfy, The Advantage Arms (AA) kits only have 10 round magazines. I had one and shot out barrels at an alarming rate. They replaced them but finally refunded my $. The slide locks back on last round with these kits. The Ceiner kits have 15 round mags, but don't lock back. I couldn't get this kit to run very well. Both kits require some serious cleaning after about 2-3k rounds (once a month for me). Good practice for malfunction drills though. Heavy (36 gr +) high velocity rounds work best in best. My local range requires plated so i use lots of Golden bullets and recently some Federal. I sold my Ceiner to get another AA. The AA are very sensitive to some ammo. I had one barrel go bad after 300 rounds of Thunderbolt; part of the barrel was .30 cal inside causing terrible tumbling. My latest stockpile of Federal from Wal are not good in the AA... go figure. Hope that helps.

As far as i know there have been no mods, sights only. i put in a lightning strike captured guiderod with standard spring. I had some light strikes on rifle primers (burning up old primers when i ran out of pistol primers and noting velocity differences). I hope this is a fluke. I would like to put a lightning strike steel striker in, but don't know if that would make things better or worse or just different. bonus round: Comments on Universal vs. V320 vs. Bullseye vs. Titegroup vs. ? for 9mm minor (115 MT Gold), 40 major (165 MT Gold) & 45 major (200 MT Gold)? Thanks

Guys, i bought a G34 recently and have been working up several loads. Yesterday i took another half dozen to the indoor to run over the chrono. This is my fourth glock and i've shot dozens. The G34 only has about 500 rounds since i got it a few weeks ago, plus previous owner. I pulled the trigger and could feel a sliding motion and a light 'tap', but no bang. I ejected the round and found a light, off center primer strike. The strike wasn't on the perimeter of the primer, but at least midway between the center and outside of the primer. i rechambered and it fired fine. Any thoughts? Thanks.

I agree that a bit of lube is treating the symptom, not the cause. I got some sample of Dupont Dry Lube at SHOT a few years ago. I'm not sure where you'd get it, but i think auto parts store, hardware store, or such may have it. It is probably a loose screw on the base of the primer assembly or the plate under the primer transfer bar needs cleaning.

I've resorted to applying tiny amount of lube to the primer transfer bar so it will freely complete it's travel.

HoMie, That make ya pucker up a bit? Any firearm damage? nate

all loads are 115 MG JHP at 1.14" (various brass), unless noted; loaded on a D550; shot at 70 degrees & 200' elevation; measured at 10' from muzzle 5.2 Amer. Select, FSP, 1100 fps - G26, 1140 - G17 Bullseye 4.5, WSP, 1111 - G17 Bullseye 4.5, FSP, 1090 - G17 1.165" 3.8 V320, WSP, 951 - G17 (too long for Glock mags; felt like i could count to 10 before action cycled!; same recoil as AA conversion) 1.165" 4.0 V320, WSP, 988 - G17 Goal is about 1050 with 115 (later 121 IFP) from a G34. Practice for now, minor later. Perhaps major at a later date. FYI: 500 S&W Mag from 22" NEF - 325 Speer JHP @ 2393 fps, 4131 ft/lbs! More than any 45-70, 444M, or 450M. Very mild flattening of primer.

And that brings up my next question: What difference does the exit pressure make, aside from sound/volume (i assume)? Oh, and how does percent burnt powder matter (flash)? According to Quickload: 3.7 V320, Mzl pressure - 2451 PSI; 100% 4.0 Univ., Mzl - 2850 PSI; 99% 3.3 Clays, Mzl - 2030 PSI; 100% 3.8 Bullseye, Mzl - 3000 PSI; 95% 3.7 TG, Mzl 23K PSI chamber, Mzl - 2300; 100% For comparison= 8.1 gr. 2400, Chamber 18K PSI, Mzl - 3400 PSI; 54% I realize a comp. would want more muzzle pressure to be effective.

I haven't been here long but i have been reading a bit. I'm looking for clean 9mm reloads, and some have mentioned 'high pressures' for cleaner burning. I use Quickload to develope recipes. I want clean burning & low recoil but are they mutually exclusive? The more pressure = more recoil? Should i keep my VV powders near max PSI, and what is high pressure? How low is TOO low, 20K? For instance a 115 JHP 1.14" at 1050fps from a G34 barrel (per Quickload): VV320, 3.7, 21K PSI Bullseye, 3.8, 19K PSI Clays, 3.3, 30K PSI Universal, 4.0, 19K PSI Is it best to stay near top of the pressure limits for clean, or dirty and softer recoil? Thanks, this place rocks.