kamikaze1a

Tap the circle with the horizontal lines that is located at the top center of the display, then "more" and then the lock or unlock desktop option should appear...

I do have that receiver/barrel lapping tool but I was wondering if there was another area that needs to be spec'd. Building a hunting AR, what would most say is the most or another critical assembly point? Barrel extension to receiver fit? Thanks!

Read a column in a recent mag where the columnist was building a new AR. He mentioned that the receiver "miked out straight" so continued the build. It seems that he was checking to see if that receiver would be a straight shooter. Searched for checking or measuring the AR receiver but got no useful hits. Anyone know what part or where he measured on the receiver? Was he measuring where the barrel extension seats?

Unless all of your brass are of uniform length your flare will be all over the place. The long brass will be flared more and short less. The simplest method would be to set the flare to the shortest length brass and just live with the long brass being flared excessively...

I figured it out. I loaded the apk file via a USB cable to the SD card, and then installed from the SD card. Thanks! New version! 1.3.14!

I'm helping a buddy get his Nook ST setup for scoring. Got it rooted and practiscore installed but can't find the update apk file. I moved the file to the Nook with a cable from my puter and I can see the file is there on the Nook from my puter but can't find it from the Nook. How do I find or run the update from the Nook? If I can't find the apk file and run the update I will ask him to register for a dropbox acct as that worked for my Nooks. Is there a file explorer on the Nook to access files? I can't figure out how to access files on the SD card either, how do I that?

Not to mention reshoots...

Thanks for the info on the EGW gr! I need the weight out front so looking at Tungsten. Doesn't look like Dawson has a tungsten...

I saw on EGW that they have a full length guide rod version for STI and another for 1911. Says that the STI guide rod has a smaller protrusion on the rear end. So not interchangeable among 1911 and STI? How about the SV? I had bought/installed guide rods before but didn't know that they were not universal...

4.9 180gr coated, 5.1-5.2 180gr plated, 170pf for a 2011

If mag in, out of spec mag tube interfering with the trigger bow would be my guess...

The primary issue is that the comp has backed out a few degrees. I will try to "tighten" it back to where it belongs and check the gap with a gauge before removing. If it needs to be relieved, no lathe or mill so I think a trip to the machine shop. Thanks all!

Thanks for that info! I will give that a try. Do I relieve the front of the slide to give me clearance between the comp and slide?

Bought an older open pistol, a Tripp 38 super with a cone comp. noticed that the comp rotated slightly and that there is no clearance between the comp and slide. Did a few search on "how to remove a cone comp" with very limited info found. A few references to heating before unscrewing and one said it could be silver soldered. Also said clamp the barrel's lug in a vise to unscrew the comp (with heat) but it was about a bull barrel. If it turned with use, is it probably not soldered? Should there be clearance between the forward end of slide and cone style comp?

Bingo! That worked! I had to try more than one USB cable as I could not find the Nook with the first cable. Switched to another cable and there it was. THANKS!

I do have an SD installed and it seems like it saved the file but when I insert into my comp to attach the file to the email, I can't find the file. Is drop box cloud storage?

What is the best way to export the file from the Nook? I tried export, then export match, save to sd card but when I check card I can't find the file... Share wants to use "dropbox".

Thanks! Will do...

We have been using Practiscore for only a few months and we all feel that it's a great tool. We still score on paper too but starting this month the Nook's scores is the "master". We used to have the shooter verify and then initial the paper scores and we are now having them compare the paper scores to the Nook and then hit save if they approve. Is that best practice? Problem is that some don't really review and basically just hit save. We later found a couple of discrepancies and since there was no way to verify which was incorrect so we used the Nook's scores. We did announce before the match that the Nook scores would be final once the shooter "saved". Now for a weird glitch. One of the hit factors got weird after the sync. Score was 30 points with time of 6.06 for hit factor of 4.9505. The Nook displays 4.9505 but when I sync to ipad for submitting to USPSA and emailing to shooter, the ipad displays hf of 4.9497...the score and time transferred correctly, just the math is wrong. As far as I can see the rest transferred correctly, was that just a glitch?

When you say he can't use the slide release, do you mean the slide will not go to battery when he uses the release or that the slide release won't budge?

This won't make you any faster but it will demonstrate to you how quickly you are capable of completing that COF. Time a COF shooting at your usual pace then re-shoot/time the same COF while shooting as quickly as you can with no regard for accuracy. The 2nd time will should give you a very good idea of what you are physically capable of in terms of speed. Calculate your hf for the first string and then play with the score and times. e.g.; If I shot the COF with the 2nd string time but points from 1st string or if I cut x seconds but gave up x points, where would my hf be? Then apply what you learn about time vs points to adjust how you shoot the next COF... In USPSA, speed often trumps accuracy.

I use just about any small pistol or rifle primer interchangeably for pistol except NATO/556 primers. They seem to be harder than other rifle primers and won't light reliably in my striker fired pistol and hammer fired is just a tad bit better.

As it turned out, they had only phillips drive so ended up chasing the threads on the original screws, shortening the thumb rest screws and loctiting the screws. I have been driving by the Fastenal store for years but never been in the store. Now that I know what they have I will be back for more....this location had a lot more than just nuts and bolts!

BINGO! Thanks I called them and they have the screws. I will probably have to modify the heads but that will work for me...Thanks GO!

The 5-40 screws arrived and it turned out to be a smaller than the existing. This CMore mount uses 8-32 screws a common size but no countersunk screws with allen or torx at Ace or Homedepot. Next tact, chase the threads of the original screws with a die and use red loctite. By the way, the the thumb index tab attaches to the CMore mount and the tab's screws protrude into the CMore mount holes. Messed up the screw when I removed the mount...