shoot

Here is some head cam shots of 2008 USPSA Single Stack Nationals http://www.downrange.tv/forum/index.php?to...g27299#msg27299

I like my KWA G17. The trigger is light compared to stock glocks. For me the trigger weight and reset feels about right compared to my glocks with trigger work at about 3#. My KWA G17 is a bit fatter so it may be tight in some holsters. ( ie. Just like my advantage arms 22lr conversion )

This gives me a leg up. Thanks to everyone. I think in the end it will be worth the effort but the kits and the 5 mags are not cheap. I just hate the idea of having to get my gun smith involved. He definitely ain't cheap but I am not so much mad at it not working especially since so many are having same issues as much as dissappointed. The old marvels are the best . I will definately will try TacSol mags.

I'm having a nightmare of a time with my open gun UNIT 1 with comp 22lr conversion. It's for my STI open gun and it is very accurate and slick when it runs but that is not very often. I've put well over 2000 rounds through it hoping it would work itself out but it's feeling like I am missing something here. I can't find any information and marvel has not helped me. Mags are very odd in that they won't feed unless you loosen them to point they are too fat to do reload. They are a very odd and seem well made but bad design. They won't feed more than 9 max when it does work. Constant jams. The barrel adjusts with the slide but nothing has helped so far. I'd like to shoot steel with it but would need 20 alibi's. Anyone getting the new marvel conversions to work ? What did you do to get it running?

Heya bruce I'm going to work on trigger speed on those hoser targets also. I am the poster child for tense , uptight shooting style. Trigger finger get's tension when uptight and too much strong hand. It's early in the year so shooting is just starting up but that is the basic thing I learned from that stage. Rick schooled us all on that one. When I was practicing after the match on steel it was obvious how my tension and getting all uptight (ie attempting to be agressive) will not work on those hosers. After a couple runs on steel I had the epiphany. It's fast to be smooth. Here that one before? lol epiphany was it's the trigger finger for me and the strong hand tension. I knew that... but in practice it was an amazing difference. Not just a little. Heck somethings have to hit me in the head over and over before I notice. Relax drills ? lol I think I learned that Bill drills are relax drills. 7 yards... multiple targets side by side there is no transition or at least it's the same as the splits. Fundamentals of shooting A's of course the same but when the double tap splits are the same as the transition between targets it becomes how fast can we shoot. Strong hand tension freezes my trigger big time. I'm going to work on that. My airsoft can't go fast enough so I'm going to work with my marvel 22 conversion then do bill drills and bill drill transition with 3 targets close. Note: By the way you got second combined in the uspsa match. Congrats Brad worked up the hit factors and found an error. Shoot

With all do respect I disagree and think in order for SC to grow or survive it needs a classification system. I think we need a poll. People need goals. Classifications are necessary to measure improvement and no matter what a particular club wants to do with prizes etc it doesn't matter. Everyone being Unclassified does not make sense . Classification system creates reachable goals. It is why people work hard and keep competing. I've wanted to raise this subject up because so many people in our club only shoot steel. Competing with masters and grand masters must be tempered with a reality that there is a measurable goal with achievement. Not just a satisfaction of achieving a slightly improving percentage towards their seemingly unreachable speed. In any division the health of SC will depend not on a few grand masters but on the masses of hard working D B,C and A shooters seeking improvement. It's just darn fun to raise your game. Without a classification system SC will fail to reach it's potential. Definition of fail is a bunch of old timers and lot's of new faces because nobody stays and works hard to work up the ladder.

I have a ceirner conversion and it is what it is. Pro's are that you are using same dot and sight setup so with movement drills and close targets it's ok but that is a barely ok. You can't go back to 223 and can only go from because of crud buildup. All the pro's and cons have been gone over many times. For me in this area all my 3 gun competition is 90% close rifle and lot's of movement... That's what I like about it. Simple easy slap in and for me has been reliable but it's a lousy squirrel rifle. Now that I am hooked and love 3gun I most certainly wish that I had a real 22 upper. Big reason is I have learned that my quick release mount holds zero well so it should be fairly easy to practice like I shoot So as a conversion user I say in hindsight it sure would be nice to have a real 22lr upper. ugh ... also it would be nice to have a 9mm upper. Maybe the later even more so. 22lr is sure a cheap practice till you drop ammo. I know my conversion paid for itself the first month. I have not outgrown it but it has severe limitations with accuracy and zero. My advice would be it depends on what you want. I know you will be both happy and almost immediately wishing you had a 22lr upper.

22 conversion lets you work on things until it's automatic. It helps especially if you have exactly the same sights and use the same holster and grip tape etc. I built an airsoft open gun and have an airsoft glock 17. Both have same sights and everything as the real deal. I use a cerner glock conversion with Heinie .105" x .225 and slant pro rear same as my real glock. Also with enough mags to do steel competition on occasion. I also use a marvel conversion with compensator that fits on my STI open gun thus same cmore etc ( it shoots slightly high but not bad ... ie about same zero out to 25 yards). It works right into the plan but has limitations so it augments your live fire with your real ammo and does not replace it. I love to shoot so getting it out of my system and trying to end on a high note can easily cost me 600 rounds in a standard live fire practice day. Plus my son shoots with me so with conversion it let's you have a plan that includes a smörgåsbord of cheap 22lr fun. Dry fire is work and the reward is shooting A's and calling shots with airsoft. That way you can shoot every day... ie strong and weak hand... anything. 22 conversion let's me drill till I can quit on a high note. That's very hard for me as I'm not a fast learner and trying to unlearn is very hard for me. Bad habits. ugh At end for me I try to do recoil drills with real ammo. 22 conversion turns a 300 dollars worth of ammo practice into a very gratifying shoot to you drop work out. Airsoft let's you call shots, index run and gun every day if you want. Both will hurt your shooting if that's all you do but with 22lr and or airsoft there are a lot good things to be learned.

Set your course up so last shot is over the top of the timer set on sensitive setting such as cowboy. It works for most of my airsoft drills just fine. I have heard of wrist units but my guns would have a hard time getting an accurate read on the last shot. I just move the timer to just underneath and in front of my last shot. I use different platforms for the timer depending on where I am in the home enviornment etc. Such as a stick that is set to push in the ground and mount my timer on. It's not rocket science but can take some practice to get you in the correct position if it's a big stage... Timer goes slightly below and in front of last shot. Sometimes at least outside I have a shooting box to finish just to force movement into it. I need a lot of practice not supermaning and being smooth. We can set up some crazy stages but mostly do steel stages. Set on Random beep.. just finish on same target . Even Ipsc stages Outside work and with a little practice you can have a lot fun. Setting up falling poppers etc etc. One can use a lot of imaginaton ...

I have been searching the airsoft forums but there is nothing about doing what I want to do . How to build a basic low cost open gun is the topic. My open gun is a darn race car that is very finicky with fuel and is an adventure from tuning mags to loading ammo etc etc. It's a race car. I want a darn pick up truck airsoft race gun. Simple and basic. They weigh about 3lbs without a mag so that is darn close to my open right out of the box. I should be good to go with a magwell and mount for my cmore. I do however not want to reinvent the wheel if there is common knowledge available. Airsoft forums don't have anything on this topic. If anyone sees something let me know. I continue to search but will begin buying parts then making them work Monday. Thank you for all the info. This is going to work. It's amazing what one can do with a fools mentality to go where brave men more knowledgeable dare not go. lol

OK i got ya ... Exactly the help I wanted. I just wonder what parts are interchangeable. Would these work on a WE, WA or Caspian 2011? http://www.dentrinityshop.com/den_search.jsp PIR168 Product Name WE Hi Capa 5.1 Government Magwell PIR207 Product Name PDI SG Compensator For Marui Hi Capa 5.1 Government MSMP239SV Product Name G&P Scope Mount Base For Marui Hi Capa Series (Short) (Silver) (GP719B) Also so many compensators ... negative thread vs positive thread etc I am starting to feel there is hope here.

I need help in order to build a basic airsoft open gun. I'm going broke shooting so much 9mm. I have turned recently to the dark side ... Open .... yes I dryfire but have a great airsoft setup at home that I used for production/SSP with my glock 17 KWC airsoft. It truly spoiled me shooting airsoft everyday along with my dry fire drills. I need an airsoft open gun bad but don't want to spend fortune as I already have. A friend bought a Limcat SV w/ C-More Sight, Custom Race Gun . He spent a lot and it's broken constantly. I want a better way . I am just wanting to buy a solid airsoft 2011, stick a magwell and compensator on it then mount my spare cmore then call it done. Sounds easy to me but it isn't. Has anyone built a solid race gun on the cheap ? Where do I start? I'd like this thread to just lead to the most basic of basic usable airsoft workhorse open gun that will give me same sight index on draws and transitions etc. I will dedicate a spare holster to it so it doesn't have to be a match in looks at all. Just same index

It is so nice to have eyes open. It's getting more natural and the instant input to call the shot and snap vision is like speed reading verses taking notes and pondering philosophy. Not quite that bad but relatively it feels that way. I haven't double plugged mainly because I'm trying to hear that b in beep and avoid a draw that anticipates too much. I also want to get an airsoft open like my glock airsoft but Limcat's are expensive and I'm not sure weather to build one or save up to get a Limcat. 750 - 800 bucks or more is a lot but it's nice to shoot everyday and have a feel for improvment. Also with my 22lr Mark II target that I use to shoot bulleye with I put a cmore on it and although it was a hoot doing movment drills and steel racks when I went back to my open the open index was way off and it was supprising how long it took to get it back. Now I'm thinking using the Mark II to offset ammo cost may be a mistake. Anyone know if a marvel 22lr conversion would hold the zero?

Like it has been said before it's like double vision .. seeing double when pushing speed out of comfort zone takes a lot maku mozo. If the dot is present in the A of one of the two then it's slap 2 call the shot and transition to the next. It's tough to keep both eyes open even with a dot. That is however what I'm asking. What kind of drills to test the limits of open when one wants to go from production to open. Squinting ( cross eye dominant)production iron to double vision eyes open with a dot.... I'm just figuring if one of em has a dot at center mass fly baby fly ... Is this correct thinking? shoot

Hello: I will keep it simple. I'm new to open. I've been shooting production and reached a point that open might help me through some issues. What are some drills to help learn open and the nuances or difference of going from production to open Like a production with a glock where trigger prep and good sight picture double tap vs a blazing fast slap with a dot that hovers in the A zone. Holy cow you can be fast but how do you drill to make that speed work. How do you find your limits such as how many shots before a popper drops and activates a mover. How many shots in 1.5 sec? Holy cow ... a bunch . Seems only limited by imagination and knowing one's self. I love Be's drill on transitions Part I at least. I would love to know more. ie drills and sources such as books, DVD's anything that has helped you become a better open shooter. Any help and recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Congrats to the winners I would love to see individual stage results especially production on the standards stage. Does anyone know what the top score on that stage was or if there is video I guess the open is rescheduled for tomorrow. I hope somebody does the cam. I can't say thanks enough for the live cam. It was remarkable watching it and quite fun.

Yes sometimes. Other times fast mag change then move but most important for me is not to change on the move or turn until mag change is complete. That is hard for me because my brain is heading that way. Turning my shoulder is almost instinct and if you think about it it doesn't take but a twitch to put your muzzle over 180. It has seemed easier for me and safer mostly to drop mag then move then reaching my spot in one motion insert and push to sight index. On my DQ I didn't have my shoulders square to back berm. At the time it felt so right and I did it like so many times before with a look... mag into well it was over. What is the opinion out there for this mag change and how to practice it? I'm of the opinion currently to avoid the entire scenario but it seemed dooable at the time. Seems safer most of time as I'm moving toward weak to have concentration on safety of my muzzle by releasing my weak hand to make me move faster and not get me in trouble. That wasn't the problem on my DQ it was my looking at the mag well in the motion on insert. Does that make sense? Makes one want to go limited with high caps on those 32 rounder stages. I feel awkward and very slow going toward weak hand. Obviously it's a problem for me. How do you do mag changes when you need to move several yards and running empty? Most of the time the mag change at the end seems safe and works safe. I just had my shoulders rotated further than I had thought addressing the array of targets. Seemed safe ... broke 180 with a glance ... It was stupid Can you explain this part? You do not insert you new mag until you get into the next shooting position?

Working on some live fire movement drills last night trying to figure what happened it became evident there is another step and that is to be facing truly down range even if targets are off to side and your forced to stare into a wall to be safe for the mag change. I was lost ... it felt right but it wasn't. Angles are a nightmare going towards weak hand especially when targets take advantage of terrific side berms. I have set up that course of fire in back yard for airsoft. It became evident it wasn't the just the technique it was just stupid to do that mag change there. Live and learn. Match this weekend so back on the horse and a humbled shooter I am. s

I had a great time at P.A.S.A. My first road trip. My day ended too soon but a good lesson learned. I had a fun day on steel day one but as we walked by the next days stages in the valley One thing was clear ... mazes of complicated stages .... Shooting at side berms ? It was already in my head that I was in trouble... I didn't know why yet ... just that some shots were into side berms ... All the matches I shot before were back berm only but P.A.S.A has side berms that brought a new dimension for a cocky newer shooter with a mantra of explode ... glide ... shoot A's. I was production/minor My trouble was a DQ on a stage obviously set up in a way that right to left was the fastest and most logical order of fire. ( I knew to beware ie move with mag changes toward my weak hand side... ugh ) I thought safety was drilled into my head ... it wasn't. I knew right to left ... be afraid ... very afraid ... watch that muzzle. I knew it ...and I knew that you never insert mag on a right to left until your on the spot. I knew it. When shooting at a back berm as I train it's almost simple just drop move and wait to insert mag just before push sight index to targets ... I knew it sometimes required to let go with weak hand when on the move to keep muzzle safe. Always safety first. On the DQ stage my plan Should never ever ever have tried to put a mag in... I ended up on my spot for a fast insert... bad ... very bad... Like those before but I had a mag to insert like a thousand times before but this time with a look at the magwell it was over... It took a lot of thought to eventually realize what happened. It felt right ... felt safe... squeeky clean safe but I broke 180 without even a thought. So here I was DQ Didn't know exactly what happened. I have never appreciated the contortions required of lefty's who see so many left to right stages. Here is my point. I didn't see how I could have broken the 180 at the time. I didn't argue because it must have happend and my RO isn't somebody to argue with but it took me a while to figure what I did. He tried to explain it was on the mag change. A perfect storm of cocky new guy with a lesson to learn and never shooting a match with side berm shots combined with mag change required because plan was moving towards weak hand. I didn't know what to do. Stupid is stupid does. Just grazed the 180 ? ie. Just barely put my friends in danger ? Stupid is stupid does so I felt bad and still didn't see it. Everyone I have seen DQ went home before and I was still trying to figure where I broke the line in that move. I didn't see it right away as it felt like I was safe but it was all about the angles and the mag insert. I stayed on one stage because the RO knew I was confused about what I did and knew it would become obvious to me with thought. No more fun ... DQ's make you feel very stupid ...What do I do ? I knew not to argue with the RO even if it hadn't sunk in .... what happened? I took off for home and then a bit down the road it just became crystal. I felt better and the long ride home became a wish that I would have stayed and pasted. That's my advice to anyone that has that happen. Stay and paste ... go off and meditate ... then go back and stay with those you put in danger. You will figure it out and learn ... Could have been worse but it was bad enough. Just thought I'd share a hard lesson. I won't do that again and if a DQ happens ... ugh ... stay...

Talked to Robert and R&R racing is working on the DMS-1 throw lever. It sure makes sense

Does anyone know where I could find a universal adjustment lever for attachment to a scope adjustment ring. Is anyone using something along these lines for fast transitions to longer range shots? I'm using a Millett Tactical DMS-1 on an bushmaster AR-15 flat top

I have developed a 7 oclock push that didn't seem to be present until I started doing a lot of airsoft as part of my dry fire experience and home work. Airsoft has helped me greatly especially on the steel but I'm having a hard time as I'm pushing recoil over. I see it happen and it's hard to stop it. Does not happen all the time. I'm calling the shot and know it happend as I'm transitioning. How do I practice out of this? Also part of this problem started when I stopped bending forward and started forcing stillness. Sure makes transition faster as recoil seems to be almost a help. Everyone knows you can't go dipping and bobbing especially in steel. Does that make sense ? Any ideas on practice methods to correct ? Is airsoft time hurting me or is it just something to work hard through with time as I'm working to get to the next level.

I'm going to try the http://www.competitiveconcealment.com/ vest. 6-8 weeks to get one made but it should be a nice summer cover that has some nifty colors available. I hope the sweep stiffness will be as easy to add too as the 5.11 was. I didn't like the divided pockets on the 5.11. It was easy to remedy though. lol ... grr ... (i.e. Lost a stowed mag on a stage in the compartments but once I learned the lesson it was easy to fix). ... grrr ... rip .... I definitely have a lot of trust in the 5.11 for cooler conditions after hours of dry fire practice in air conditioned comfort but it's a hot bugger to wear in searing heat. I look forward to the competitive concealment vest.

Thank you for the reply. Main problem I had was they never enforced it before but in our area there is a snip with IPSC top guns. IPSC habits and gaming the stage gets some people mad I think. I love it all When in rome do as the romans ... behind cover. thanks again

I can't find a rule that says we must load up 11 on first mag every course of fire. Max +1 ... barney rule ? Anyone got a page in the rulebook on that one. I know we have option to load a barney but I can't find the rule that says if we don't it's a procedural even if no one states it in the course of fire instruction. They only started enforcing that one last night and sometimes I can't tell when they are kidding or not.