mr1911

SV; I like your pick, is that John G. in "the big labowsky"?

As a proffesional machinist/amatuer gunsmith, I would say ALLWAYS have some sort of Choke screwed in tight to protect your threads, it doesn't matter if lead technicaly won't destroy steel threads, trying to screw in a choke afterwards or trying to dig the lead out of them most definately WILL. If you want to shoot "unchoked" then just get one that is open, not to mention you can get a rifled choke that will greatly help accuracy with slugs. Like "bofe954" I decided to go with a Rem. police 870, fixed choke cylinder bore, a real K.I.S.S. gun, if I want to shoot sluggs I just get a box of rifled slugs and don't worry about chokes.

9X23 has allways made me wonder why, if you've got 9mm luger and .38 super, why bother? It's kind of like my opinion on the new rifle cartridges between .223 and .308, I don't care about 6.5. But I guess thats just buisness, someones allways trying to provide an answer for a question nobody asked LOL.

Are you saying it is a 2lb trigger? or thats it's a no#2 trigger? I've only been into competion shooting for a short time, but I've been around competition/cambat guns long enough to know I don't like super light triggers, I've got a competition single stack 1911 with a 3.5 lb wilson combat trigger group and I would actualy preffer it to be no lighter than 4-5 lbs. My buddy had an A.D. the other day with his 4 lb. trigger Kimber custom. I actualy preffer my semi-stock Colts with 7 lb. triggers that I use as Carry guns. P.S. as I told my buddy "finger outside the trigger trigger guard whenever you're not on a target".

Messing with your sear/hammer engagement surfaces is a slippery slope for a newbe to smithing. Years ago when I first got into smithing my own guns I had a 1911 go full auto on me due to a missmatched sear/hammer. You can order a matched combo from Wilson Combat, Chip McCormic, etc.......I got one for my first gun to replace the mess I had created and it still has a perfect 3.5 light-crisp competition trigger to this very day....and it's been through heck and back.

I have had a bad habbit of occasionaly flicking it off as soon as my hand hits the holster when I have a to move to cover and shoot stage.....need to work on that.

I have sooo been there, last month I finaly shot a stage and scored with the top shooters...super fast, super accurate.... the very next stage you would have thought I was a blind man moving in slow motion, I went from the very top to the very bottom, unbelievable......... Just goes to show you what happens when you loose focus and your "relaxed agression" goes to "tense distraction", LOL.

I've never used a magwell, all my 1911s have beveled mag epenings, thats enough for me. I've seen a LOT of add on mag wells that cuase more jams than prevent due to not being blended in properly to match the gun.

I had a problem with Rainier's 200 gr round nose in .45acp, the problem was that they had a long taper similar to a 9mm instead of the ball nose a 230 gr bullet has, they couldn't be seated deep enough and between that and the taper they would not cycle in ANY of my 1911s. I love Rainier's 185gr FP bullets, they work great in my 1911s. I'm also a fan of Berry's 185gr HBRN bullets, but the prices are getting rediculas.

One of my shooting buddies swore off factory reloads when a squib cost him the barrel of a classic Colt .357 python....not a cheap and easy fix.

Trying out a new recipe for USPSA has anyone Chrono'd it or anything similar , I need to make major. .45acp, 1.200" AOL, 185 gr. Rainier FP, 4.8 grs Clays. Thanks.

I used berry's 185 gr HBRN .45 acp for quite a while before the prices skyrocketed. I loaded them 1.230" with 4.8 grs Clays and was quite happy with the lower recoil and good accuracy under 25 yds, not sure if that would cut it for major though, never Chrono'd it.

I usually have a set of 10,15,&18-1/2 lb springs in my range bag for various experimental loads.