mpom
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Posts posted by mpom
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FWIW, the Stretch includes the gasblock and gas tube. just saying its important to compare comparable packages. if you reuse those items, can see how the Stretch is not the best option.
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Some parts are out of spec from the start. Why not pull the spring, stretch it some to lengthen it, reinstall, and see if problem persists. its a diagnostic move, but costs nothing, takes minutes. my advice is worth what you paid for it
I like to tinker and fix issues myself, but for those that do not, there is always the option of a trip to mossberg or a quality smith, like RAS.
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Perhaps the spring responsible for the reset is on the ragged edge of reliable strength and needs to be replaced.
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Have used black JB Weld to fill voids, sanded smooth then a light coat of flat black Fusion spray paint. Will post pics when i get some time.
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I have brain farts all the time, especially while on the clock, dammit
Correct name is "retaining compound". An example is 609, bought mine from Amazon. Hope its not too difficult to remove as I am going to rebarrel an upper.
Will try some UnCure if needed.
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Believe the shim bison sells is for timing the barrel nut, not for eliminating play betweeen extension and upper. Loctite makes products for this application, think they are sleeve retaining compounds.
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So you find quads easier, more successful than duals with the taccom? Was wondering if the double deuling deuces, having a gap between the quads, would be better for quads than the version which i have, no gap between row 2 and 3.
have tried the wrist flip, not as good as pulling like a curl.
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Another question: Will the 6378 ALS for the 5" work wilth a pistol without the manual safety? On the Safariland site, the 7TS for the 5" is for one with a safety.
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Just need to polish up the shiny edge, which has the black finish worn from friction with slide notch, possibly sl8de notch, if it feels rough when running a finger nail on it.
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With Bkreutz and others who hit the interface with a stoke or 2 of a polishing stone. Stamped parts often have a sharp, non radiused edge, easy to fix. Polished the cut in the slide, not changing the angle. Worked much better, only auto releases the slide if the mag is slammed in very hard.
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Learned from practicing at home that Marco is very wise; better to load 2 consistently than to fail at loading 4
Suspect its me, but having a hard time pulling quads off my Taccom smoothly, but twins are easy, so will stay with easy and reliable for a while.
Opening the loading port and tapering the fore end "shelf" is key, as is extending the lifter.
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Above is "old tech", cheap and effective, faster than pulling shells out of a pouch or pocket, but much slower than "new tech" shell caddies from Invictus and Taccom, which are also more expensive.
Nice to shoot with you yesterday.
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Most welcome. PITA, but its worth reading some of the pages, particularly posts that have a synopsis of preventative actions related to the 930, such as gas piston cleaning, shell stop mods and hammer spring replacement.
A few ounces of prevention...
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If you are having vertical movement of 1/8" at the back end of forearm, I think that is par for the course, which is why I used JB weld to build up "bumps" to eliminate the play, and why LOGIZTIX has come out with a device to elevate the back of the forearm and eliminate that play, available here http://www.or3gun.com/OR3GUN/about_or3gun_retainer.htm
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Wolff makes an extra power glock strike4 spring, got a tripple set from brownells, thinking i would increase striker force over oem spring, even though stock spring with apex fss kit was 100% reliable. Thought this was a good idea since my glocks launch a pencil with more authority than my m&ps. Bottom line, no change in pencil movement so went back to oem springs. You may find them useful for light primer hits, assuming the striker is not being impeded by the block or dirt. Think they are rated @ 6 lbs.
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Whick gas block are you running?
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So which gas block was on the barrel when you experienced cycling issues, the one sopd by SSTactical or another one?
Am planning on using the SLR Sentry 7.
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Have read good things about new lower cost Hyperfire. No personal experience.
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OP, as others have said, there is a difference between polishing with a polishing compound on a cotton wheel vs stoning. Stoning will remove significant material which can lead to parts failure. Compound on cotton should not. Results may or may not be satisfactory with compound on cotton, depends on machining and geometry of hammer and trigger, but has worked well on 1 carbine, not well enough on another, in my limited experience. No harm trying, as long its done using common sense.
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Jus5 got a stretch nitrided barrel. Have high hopes as well. Looks well finished. Packing was excellent. Will install in a week or so.
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Same story. Glocks since 86, mostly 19, last year got a 5" pro and just a couple 9f months ago a 9c to replace my 27 for edc. Ergos better, not blocky and triggers pretty good w apex parts.
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Am ordering a triple set of extra power (6lbs) glock striker springs from brownells, as the factory 5lb doesnt launch a pencil with nearly as much force as my glocks. Checked wire diameter of springs- oem s&w is 30 thou glock is 28 thou with extra coil or two.
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Would have been a nice April Fool's joke! Completely fell for it...
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Oh, simple. Just run the barrel extension shoulder on the barrel down another half thread pitch and cut the breech face and chamber the same amount. Redrill and install the index pin. Easy as pie.
Won't the gas tube be on the bottom of barrel now? How will it mate with gas key?
Looking for a new barrel.
in Rifle - Technical
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Oh crap, now i need to sell my melonited stretch and buy a red...
sorry for the thread drift, but bottom line, doubtthere is a "best" choice for the OP, just excellent choices depending on barrel length and gas system preference.