mpom
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Posts posted by mpom
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I have one of the 24" guns and it was used all last week by 8 friends from Great Britain. The all shared the gun running Winchester Universal, Federal Bulk pack, hunting loads, various slugs, and some Federal Flite Control Buckshot and the gun never failed once......then we shot a 3 gun match and 4 of the Brits shared the JM 930 and it still ran perfect. So did my built 930, but this gun was right out of the box! One of my local dealers even had the 22" model on the shelf for $449!!!
$449 ???
Wholesale is $500.
Something does not compute.
Gun is in demand so cannot believe dealer would sell at a loss.
Mark
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Not useless; you just need to keep screwing it in. I screwed in the screw till the hammer would not drop while maintaining pressure on trigger, then unscrewed it till hammer dropped. Unscrewed another half turn to prevent hammer dragging on sear and called it good. Sure, end of screw with allen wrench recess was deep inside of triggerguard but not in danger of falling out.
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The trigger unit on my 85119 has some side to side wiggle in it. I do not think it is a problem but does anyone have a tip or trick to tighten that up, preferably without having to have a gunsmith work on it. I did already check the pins and they are tight. It came this way out of the box and aside from a couple of sharp ridges on the stock (from the molding process) that I sanded down it is great so far.
I have the same wiggle in mine. Try putting a 6" c-clamp on it and turn it down until the wiggle is gone.
Okay...don't do that. It might put you in open at some matches for having an additional handle or some crap like that.
I have wondered the same thing as far as a way to fix it. Not sure it hurts anything, but i bet it doesn't help. I have been thinking of some way to make the trigger group wider - maybe adhere some shim material to the sides?
Anybody else have a great idea like the first one above?
Have a little wiggle in mine also, only noticeable with sideways pressure, not when pressing back as in dry firing. Trigger guard housing containing fcg has no movement in receiver. Seems there is a slot milled in housing in which trigger linkeage resides, with excess clearance for parts. Can imagine shimming up sides of slot to reduce side to side play, if this is an issuethat i notice while shooting.
Mark
Mark
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Decided to try basic polishing using JB stuff; the bore cleaner followed by "bore bright" to get a mirror finish. Flex hone, even 800 grit seems too aggressive for a factory new barrel. What convinced me was the post above referring to deep cleaning, and speaking with Briley. Will pay attention to forcing cone during polishing. Plan on using a brush with a patch embedded with jb, rod chucked in a drill, doing a few passes while avoiding lingering in place.
Can always use the hone later, if needed. Need to remember "opposite of good is better".
Mark
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Contacted Nordic, since the extended tube is theirs, thought the spring is theirs as well. Told me the spring was not sourced from them, and recommended I leave the spring compressed with a full loads of shells in the tube for a while, to compress it some. Did not recommend cutting it. Will follow their advice after I reassemble the sg, and will listen to what others on this site say. Have it apart for cleaning, lubing, polishing the bore. Already polished the hammer and sear contact areas with Flitz; got rid of a hitch in the pull and it went from 4.75 to 4 lbs, clean with a little travel, more or a roll. Good enough for this noob!
Mark
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Mag tube spring on my 22" jm 930 seems very stiff which slows down reloads. Will it compress a little over time or should i trim it a little at a time? Dont want to ruin it, but it sticks out the end of mag tube around 2 feet.
Thanks
Mark
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Have read on "errornet" that legnthening and polishing forcing cone allows pellet charge to transition to main part of barrel with less disruption leading to fewer deformed pellets, tighter pattern, less leading and slightly less recoil. Supposedly high end shotguns come from factory with this already done, but i cannot confirm as i dont own a high end sg. On my 930 jm sg the for ing cone is rough compared to rest of barrel using a sharp pencil to examine. Plan on polishing with a 800 grit flex hone. Will do complete barrel as there appears to be a subtle change is surface finish half way down the barrel. Not a big deal but i already have the flex hone.
Mark
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Thanks, lt braxton. It all makes sense, especially targets up close.
Shotgun got threaded for choke tubes a couple of weeks ago, after i could not rotate a spinner 360 deg with multiple solid hits using #6 game load at around 10 yards. That was with fixed cylinder barrel.
Will try the mod tube at next match, and will bring other chokes as well (skeet and full).
Another question: would polishing inside of choke tube lead to slightly more open pattern as is my intuitive assumption or tighter, as smoother constriction might reduce bouncing of errant pellets? Don't want to mess up parts by " lets do it and find out" as there is no putting back any metal i remove.
Mark
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Have you considered the Samson Evolution version? Its round with some included short rails. Ranier Arms has their versions of the Evo that are even lighter than Samson's.
Mark
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Very timely thread.
Just getting into 3G and was pattering my sg at 15 yards; with modified choke pattern was about a foot in diameter, and with full choke, it was 6" across. A fellow shooter told me to stay with the full as a 6" spread at 15 yards is plenty wide. Is this good advice or should I go with the 12" spread, or something in between for general 3G use. Ammo was Federal target 7.5, 1 oz, 12 guage.
Thanks in advance,
Mark
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JSC has 4 left. Ordered the JM 22" version. Should be a big improvement over the Ithaca pump I've been using; 4 rounds capacity. Hope its as good as the hype.
Mark
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Try Lipsey's for a distributor that has some in stock, both the 22" and 24" lengths.
Mark
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I just spoke with the salesman at Grab-a-Gun in Coppell, TX and he said they're expecting their next Mossberg shipment in a couple of weeks (first week in April). The sign up for email notification was easy. I hope folks will sing out when they start hitting the street.
Well, they are apparently hitting the street. Lipsey's, a wholesaler, has them in stock, so get your favorite FFL to order.
Mark
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Many people say the Battlecomp is one of the least loud and obnoxious comps. No doubt not as flatshooting as the loud ones but much better than a flashhider or going naked.
Mark
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I would ask the nice folks at Vortex for the recent Internet Sale Price, $50, shipping included. Just got 2 in last week. Made by MGM, very nice quality.
Mark
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Just curious; is the hammer a casting?
Mark
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How does one make 0.1 or 0.2 mil holdover/under adjustments with a reticle such as the PST, where it looks like there is a 0.5mil gap between the center dot (0.3mil diameter) and the any of the etched lines? I guess I could hold the edge of the dot above or below the target to make a 0.15mil change in point of impact.
Will go with mil/mil, as my older brain could use the stimulus of learning something new!
Then need to find some local matches in which I can embarrass myself
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Thanks AS and RC.
Will get Mrad version.
Less clutter is always good.
Have the Shooter Android app, so that, and a print out from JBM on the stock should "get-er-done".
Am looking forward to receiving the scope. I'm a noob, so my feedback is probably not of much value. Home range
is limited to 100 yards, but do have a friend with land, so will try it out there.
Best price I found is Liberty, $450 vs $500 for everyone else. Site says $499, but a phone call will confirm the actual price.
Mark
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Will be purchasing the newly shipping PST, but am uncertain on which subtension system to get, for use on 16" 223/556 carbine.
Have used moa system for years, and am used to thinking of bullet drop in inches, so changing to milrads will mean a new trajectory table, doable with
JBM. Is there an advantage with one system over another if I don't have any other scopes with millrad subtensions? Also, the value of each click on the
turrets is different; moa version each click is 0.5 moa(0.5" @ 100yards), mill version each click is 0.2mil (0.72" @ 100yards) Significant for accuracy or sighting in?
Thanks in advance,
mark
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Thanks for sharing the info.
Surprised that switching to Precision lowered the velocity, using the same charge. I realize the COL increased by 35 thousands, but I've read that lead is more "slippery" than copper and to expect higher velocity with same powder charge. Might go up to 4.4 grains, as I am seating much shorter. Wish I had a chrono.
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For those using Solo 1000: What powder charge, or range, do you use, or recommend for this particular bullet. I've used the search function, but little specific info on this combination of powder and bullet.
I am loading for a Glock, so OAL is 1.140. I've loaded test batches of 4.2 and 4.3. A little smoke, slightly better accuracy than Precision Delta FMJ 180, and very mild recoil. No chrono, so not sure those make major.
My goal is a clean shooting, accurate, match load for my G27. Soft recoil a plus.
I know VV320 or 330 is very popular and works very well with both FMJ and lead, but is not readily available to me, and expensive! Did try VV330 in 9MM and liked it, but want to try and make S 1000 work in 40 S&W.
Thanks in advance,
Mark P
Glock slide to frame fit
in General Gunsmithing
Posted
I have noticed the slop in the trigger due to vertical movement in the slide but ONLY with the mag out. This movement is not present in my 2 glocks with a loaded mag as mag spring overcomes trigger bar pulling rear of slide down. Interfaces of bar and striker are polished.
Would check for movement with loaded mag before doing any work.
Mark