mpom
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Posts posted by mpom
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Seems the upper is the culprit, not the barrel extension.
Just checked a couple of barrels I have laying around, 2 different reputable manufacturers (like Faxon) and they came in at .9995". No stripped upper at this time, but believe the mil spec for bore where barrel extension sits is 1.0 +.002, -.000
So your upper opening is .008 out of spec.
If it was me, I would try a retaining compound first, then a new upper. Unless you fashion a shim that is symmetrical around the barrel extension, suspect you will introduce harmonics and support issues that may impact maximum accuracy.
A feeler gauge shim would be appropriate for a Ruger 1022, but imho, not for an AR15.
Loctite 620 is suitable for up to .015" gap, so should work. 609, which I mentioned earlier is only good for up to .005"
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Are we all talking about the same thing?
Placing a shim between the barrel extension flange and front of upper receiver is not uncommon, useful for timing the barrel nut, so gas tube or handguard end up in correct position, all while remaining within a reasonable torque setting for barrel nut. This has nothing to do with taking up excessive space between the barrel extension and oversized hole in upper receiver, which I think the OP was referring to.
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Where can I get some E3?
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No issues metering in Dillon 550. Did polish the inside of expander/powder funnel die.
Wish I could find more Solo 1K, but none around.
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I did not use loctite, just tightened the sh*t out of forearm nut and extension, by hand only. No movement so far.
Most it can loosen is a couple of degrees of rotation, so am not concerned.
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Problem with Brownell's is they only have the S trigger bar, not the latest H version. Not sure of the differences between the 2, but I guess an S is better than non. I have an S in my 5" and H in the newer Compact. Pull is a little better with the H, reset a little shorter as well.
Noticed trigger reset is smoother following polishing sides of loop, as the sear rubs against it. Just watch the operation with slide off. This might be the issue the OP is having. Also, a weaker trigger return spring can lead to same issue, weak/slow reset. Try it with OEM trigger return spring. Should still get a 4 lb trigger pull and hopefully reliable reset.
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What torque setting are you using for barrel nut? Acceptabkerange is 35 to 85 foot pounds, i believe. Some folks use a sleeve retaining compound such as loctite 609 to bed the barrel extension in upper. Would try that for a loose fit. Needs to be heat resistant and not permanent. If play is excessive, say over 10 thousands, i would replace the upper as new ones are around $100.
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Not aware of after market 930 springs, but from personal experience, have found out the following: replacement for hammer spring (which you did not ask about but might need in future) is an extra power Ruger 1022 hammer spring,
replacement for the shell stop spring can be a cut to length Glock 9/40 striker spring. Have not investigated the lifter spring yet.
Had to change the shell stop spring as the Wolff mag spring overwhelmed the shell stop spring, even with a polished and radiused shell stop.
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Just tried one out, dry fired it.
Has a bit of creep, but not bad.
Only trigger I have to compare it with is a JP, which is not a drop in, but far crisper and has a shorter reset.
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Installed the newer version on my fat barreled JM930, fired some slugs at 50 yards to make sure it shot where it was aimed, then competed in a 3G match where I fired around 75 shot shells. No issues. I like the fact that there is no barrel stress, as there is clearance between the clamp and barrel, unlike the original Nordic clamp which would pull the mag extension and barrel towards each other. Will leave it on for now.
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Where is the cheapest place to purchase?
Believe Ranier Arms has it for $85.49 which is $4.50 less than PA's price.
On a separate note, has anyone compared this brake with the Dynamic Resistance brake?
Am wondering if I would gain anything, except a bit of weight and length by switching. Would be great if someone with experience with both would chime in.
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Based on this thread I searched the baffle and found it on Amazon, same price, same seller, only FREE shipping for Prime members. Naturally ordered one!
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Hard to diagnose, but you were probably on the edge of reliable functon at the original loop setting, loop not set correctly. Make sure you have a bit of overtravel. A good test of proper loop setting, imho, is to attempt to dry fire while pushing down on back of slide, compressing the slide to frame. There is some clearance between slide and frame, and if pull feels good, then all is well as loaded mag pushes slide away from frame during live fire,.which produces more clearance. If pull is rough or striker does not release, then open loop some more.
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Sounds like the loop at the end of trigger bar is too closed, need to open it up a bit and get just a bit of overtravel. Review Apec videos.
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For those with Mossberg JM 930s considering this item, let Tim know which shotgun its for, as the standard version does NOT fit around my 930 barrel, as apparently the barrel is too thick at the muzzle. I wonder how some of the posters managed to get it on their JM 930s, as there is major interference.
As expected, Tim is sending out a version that should fit the JM 930, and told me to give the one he sent to a non Mossberg owner. Anyone willing to pay the shipping?
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Slight derail, but thanks ZJ, as i just scored 3 mags for $71, tax & shipping included, from Quantico for my 9c.
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Believe the trigger return spring has a big impact on the trigger pull weight. My duty/carry kits came w 2 return springs, both giving heavier pulls than if using the oem trigger return spring. installed a kit on my 9c. With oem spring pull is 3.75lbs, lighter of apex springs, 4.5. That is the one that is in for both carry and competition.
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Is this actually an improvement over the Nordic clamp? Just asking, as an owner of a Nordic clamp, before spending the money.
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If money is not a limiting factor, you might want to look at http://www.v7weaponsystems.com/
They manufacture a ton (no pun intended) of titanium parts to shave weight. No personal experience, but the reviews on m4c.net are generally excellent.
The BCM KeyMod handguard might be something to look at, as its made of an aluminum/magnesium alloy, perhaps no heavier than your CF, yet stiffer.
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Surprising as in the 2 Dawson's I installed, the fit was very tight. Would ask the "gunsmith" if he had filed or stoned the front sight in order to install it, as he may have over done it.
Either way, it can be salvaged per horseman's suggestions. Check out a retaining compound, which unlike regular loctite thread locker, is designed for parts that fit with significant gaps, like your front sight. No need for a smith for this kind of work.
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As promised, a few (crappy) photos of JB Weld filled bubbles. Bright light makes the defects appear much bigger than they really are.Ignore the red follower, as a blue one is on the way, via logiztix
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Dawson has a policy that if you follow their recommendations, they will replace the front sight free of charge should it not shoot to the desired point of impact. Fixed rears are single height.
Best to shoot the gun as is, then discuss the sight selection with their tech on the phone.
Funny thing is, while the rear sight on my 5"Pro is different than the Dawson, the rear on my 9C looks exactly like the Dawson.
Changing out both for .125", as I get too much daylight around the Dawson .100" FO. Believe the factory rears are .135"
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Not a MB cool aid drinker, but Ben_lli does not seem to be exempt from issues. There is a 2 page thread right next to this one...Ben_lli There are no more vowels spin or solve.
not to be rude its just that I have seen so many struggle with the JM guns
No doubt MB has more than its share, but seems every SG has specimens with problems.
AR barrel shimming
in Rifle - Technical
Posted
Nathan is a class act. If I were in the market for a barrel, Faxon would be one of a small # I would look at. Wish they made a 16" with intermediate gas...