Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

lucas

Classifieds
  • Posts

    505
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by lucas

  1. Because bolt travel is the same distance with both stocks, felt recoil comes down to reciprocating mass and bolt velocity. Minimum felt recoil will be achieved with the lightest reciprocating mass (bolt carrier and buffer), and with gas dialed down to where the buffer barely kisses the back of the buffer tube after each shot. The weight can be lightened substantially with either the rifle-length or carbine-length stock/buffer system, with more options probably existing for the carbine setup. Either can work. Just changing between rifle- and carbine-setups, but keeping the reciprocating mass the same, will not achieve much of anything.

    If you go with a carbine buffer, you can lighten it by removing the reciprocating weights inside (that's what I did), or replace it with an aftermarket lightweight carbine buffer.

    The thing to bear in mind also is that the extra mass of the "standard" bolt carrier/buffer setup gives you a significant margin for reliable function under adverse conditions; if you go to a lighter setup and dial down the gas, your rifle is likely to become more finicky. Not a problem for a competition gun if you keep it clean, but not a good idea for a duty gun.

    Just one more point - in case you didn't know, make sure you match the buffer tube length to the buffer type (e.g. rifle tube and rifle buffer OR carbine tube and carbine buffer... do NOT mix these systems up). In your particular case, you will need to get a carbine buffer and spring to go in your ACS stock's shorter buffer tube.

    My combo is Rubber City Armory LW Carrier/ajustable key.

    My question is ,with that and switching back to a carbine buffer,tube and spring, will that be as efficient as it is now with rifle stock and buffer?

  2. Can I get the same softer recoil with a carbine stock set up as with a rifle stock?

    I am currently using a Magpul MOE Rifle stock with light JP buffer and spring. I do not like the curvature of the end of the stock. If I put back on the carbine ACS Magpul stock ,the rifle came with, can I achieve what the rifle stock can do to midigate the recoil impulse?

  3. With my 1301, I find you still need to strictly palm your shells down deep so you don't stub against the top of the loading port. That's alright until you try to quad load. I need to lower the sides more than what was done when I sent the gun out to open up the loading area.

    What tools do I need to do it myself and or instruction on how to? I don't want to send it out again to a gun smith.

  4. I have trouble not knocking shells off of the 2.8 trying to do a load-two. It's actually easier for me to load 4 on them :D

    I am having trouble also. If my finger barely touches the second row bottom shell ,it pops out. The clips on the 2.8 do not seem to hold the shells as firm as my 8D caddy. I understand that for singles you have to barely put your fingers under the first row if you are doing a duel load but at speed it seems impossible ,but yet others are not having problems. I am changing the caddy to more of an angle than I have it now ,hoping that will make a differerence . If the bottom clips held the shells as firm as they do on my 8D they would not be as sensitive.

    After canting the 2.8 all the way over and not midway ,like what it appeared to me how Kevin's was located on his video, I'm having much better results. Evidently, one angle fits all, is not the case.

  5. I have trouble not knocking shells off of the 2.8 trying to do a load-two. It's actually easier for me to load 4 on them :D

    I am having trouble also. If my finger barely touches the second row bottom shell ,it pops out. The clips on the 2.8 do not seem to hold the shells as firm as my 8D caddy. I understand that for singles you have to barely put your fingers under the first row if you are doing a duel load but at speed it seems impossible ,but yet others are not having problems. I am changing the caddy to more of an angle than I have it now ,hoping that will make a differerence . If the bottom clips held the shells as firm as they do on my 8D they would not be as sensitive.

  6. According to the Carlson website (under Optima HP, in the description for the waterfowl choke tube set), they mention no shooting slugs through any choke tighter than IC.

    Really, I had my c-rums modified 1301 sighted in with LM and slugs.

  7. Are you getting some cheek slap like me? I don't have the same issue with either my FN SLP or VersaMax so wondering if the stock is just too high out of the factory.

    I don't like how far down I have to crush my face to the stock for the front sight to naturally line up without it being to high. This might be part of your problem. I hope the extra spacer and plate will drop it down further than the 55 to 60 mm drop it is out of the box per the manual.

    Yep, same issue. Added the 65mm front spacer and changed out the rear to 65mm DX (right handed) and cheek slap gone.

    I am having the same problem. Where did you get the 65mm spacer and the 65 DX plate?
  8. One thing I still don't get. Cleaning instructions involves oil. I only ever used oil to lubricate not clean. I don't understand. Do I actually use oil to clean or solvent?

    A lot of oils have detergents on them to clean.. pretty much all motor oil has detergents to clean the carbon out

    Thanks, in that case SLP which is both oil and solvent should be okay.
×
×
  • Create New...