lucas
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Posts posted by lucas
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When the mag is inserted with slide open, it looks like the ejector is in contact with the case. I insert a mag with one bullet and manually start the bullet very slow with my fingers Forward and the end of the ejector on the left bottom corner does come in contact with the rim of the bullet. The other mags look like they barely scape by the ejector. I have the follower shelf as high as can be without the followers jumping out of the tubes. By the way, the tube feed lips are all close to 350-355 and 355-360.
Those same tubes with grams followers ,after I've tuned the follower shelf ,lock back and the bullets are not near the ejector.
Is it normal in 9mm 2011's to use extended ejectors and for STI tubes with STI followers to present the bullets that high to the ejector?
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Shaved the corner off as described above and have never had any issues.
I'm not sure what corners you are referring to.
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cut .020 off the the spring tunnel on the slide and add a buffer
Can this be done with basic tools or do you need a gun smith?
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As far as limited guns go using 140mm mags, I use a Dawson mag release that prevents over insertion and Dawson base pads that also help with that. I also like my match guns to operate as intended even though it's a pain to tune the ledge on grams followers to prevent lock back with one round left.
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I Just set up my first 2011 in 9mm. It's like the 40 and 45 2011's. Most work fine with STI followers but often I have had to tune the feed lips with the Dawson tool kit, a wise investment. With the 5 tubes I am using for the 9mm, 4 of them lock back and feed with STI followers with spacer. The fifth tube I will tune later.
I also purchased a brazos tuned 9mm mag that uses a grams spring and follower, and yes they typically will leave one round left after slide lock. It is rare for this in my experience in the 45 but with the 40's and now 9mm you have to tune the follow. I sand down the ledge that comes in contact with the slide lock pawl. I use a dremel with the small round sanding drum and take the thickness down 1/3 ,then keep going until it works. So far I never run into one that would not work before running out of material.
Get the brazos tuning kit, make sure your tubes are to spec or close to start, and you will have a much better time when you get unlucky.
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I don't have room for a buffer. The gun came with a 20# spring.
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My question is, can a 9/40 slide stop work the same with a 45 STI 2011?
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Try with the basepad removed
I did remove base pads.
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I'm not done yet but I have made progress. So far, I have found one that the top left side of the tube in front of the feed lips was bowed enough ,it would catch the bottom of the slide more then normal on it's
way up. I straitened it with pliers.
The other problem tubes, I'm not sure what to do. The tubes at the back top of the feed lips are digging into the frame where the disconnect pokes through and ejecter is, a lot more than the others. The front to back measurement seems normal. I'm thinking of sanding that part of the mag.
I cannot see where any of them are in contact with the grip screws, by the way.
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I have 126mm 45 cal mags that instead of seating with a positive click, they feel and sound like metal grinding against each other. What causes that?
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I called Wilson. I was told the bullet proof slide stops were made to lock up tight and unless shooting it a little doesn't free it up ,I may have to file a little the link hole.
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The Wilson Bullet Proof slide stop, I attempted to use, locks up the slide some what. You have to pull hard for the slide to open. On the top of the section where the lower portion contacts the follower may be hitting something. Does this sound plausible?
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My first STI, built by Les Baer because STI did not sell complete guns until later ,have the shorter mag. These would be the first gen and was before the Clinton ban. I remember ordering 2 more mags before Clinton was to sign the ban but was sent 10 rounders. I was to late evidently.
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I have sold several and believe Remington 1911's are the best value for a domestic made 1911 there is.
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When I have a tube where the follower will not push up high enough to engage the slide stop, I start grinding on the contact points where I think the problem is. I start grinding on both sides of the follower indiscriminately but never knowing where the problem is for sure. I have had many successes over the years but many failures also.
Is there a specific area on the grams follower, you have found to be the culprit where I should start looking at first?
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I always assumed slide stops were caliber specific, evidently not. I recently received my 45 2011 converted to 9mm pistol. I noticed the original slide stop was not changed. I called my gun smith and was told it should work none the less ,basically. Out of 7 ,38 super tubes I did get 4 mags with 9mm guts to lock back the slide, which I prefer. No need to purchase a 9/38 slide stop.
I then asked about my original question at the top of this thread. I was told the difference between a 40 vs 45 slide stop ,is the tab, for lack of a better word, sticks further out with the 40.
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Where is the difference between a 40 and 45 2011/1911 extractor?
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I use grams for my 40 STI and every mag, I had to trim down the follower to lock back without leaving a round in the mag. All guns may react different. for mine I trim down the thickness almost half way down ,then I shoot it ,and if it still is not correct I use my knife to scrape a little more each time as needed.
STI tubes have varying feed lip specs to the point that not one of my 6 tube followers have the same amount of trimming. However, with 126mm mags in 45acp I had problems not with locking back leaving a round but locking back period. Out of 11 tubes I finally have 5 with grams spring /follower that do lock back. With the 45 ,I had not only to deal with varying feed lip specs, but apparently the followers are aswell. Some of the grams spring/follower did not like any of my tubes.
Never the less ,I for one will continue to primarily stay with Grams.
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I have an assortment of slide stops. How do tell by looking at them ,which ones are for 40 or 45 guns?
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Hard Chrome
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My builder recommends bushing barrel, who's opinion I am inclined to condider. He says shooting minor does not need a heavier barrel. I am conflicted. I will be shooting factory ammo and guns like the STI DVC come with bull barrel and a long dust cover. My gun will have a short light rail.
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The factory sti guide rods comes ground that way. Other rods do not, you will need to grind them to match.
The tungsten guide was advertised for STI with the smaller button, so why wasn't it also ground?
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I tried to replace my stock 2011 guide rod with a 2011 tungsten rod ,which locked up the gun emmediately. I then payed more attention to the instructions and discovered the button on the new guide was in contact with the barrel feet. I then more closely inspected the button of my original guide and noticed the button had been ground down, about 1/3 from the bottom up ,at an angle. I put the stock rod back in and closely inspected it. The button where it was angled looked to me to still be in contact with the barrel feet, if only barely, but I noticed the little legs on the guide rod that rest on the barrel were as far back to the barrel feet as possible and not the case with the tungsten rod . With the tungsten rod ,not only was it clearly apparent the button was in contact with the barrel feet but there was a noticeable gap between the legs and barrel feet. This told me I need to mimick what was done to my original rod to my new tungsten rod. I hope that is correct, because I am almost done grinding on the button. My gun is custom made by a popular builder but yet they had to alter a stock STI guide rod for the gun to function? Is this normal ?
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If it locks back when I wasn't planning on it (most likely due to extra shots being needed and I wasn't counting) and I'm surprised by it and being surprised costs me some time, that's on me.
If it was part of my plan and the reload + slide drop goes crisply while on the move, and all else goes as planned, it is good.
I agree with that. I like slide lock. With Dawson SNL pads, I won't over insert a 140mm mag while shooting limited.
Bullet contact with ejector while magazine is in and not locking back.
in General Gunsmithing
Posted
Yes, thank you I'll do that.