[Freedom Munitions 40 S&W]

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I've shot about 4000 rounds of .40 Freedom reman through my Limited and SS guns. All of it chrono'd at major PF. Used it at SS Nats last spring and chrono'd 171PF, so no complaints in that department.

I have experienced 4-5 instances of rounds that did not have enough crimp and the bullet got pushed into the case which prevented feeding. Freedom's customer service was quite helpful and replaced the entire lot of ammo from which the defective rounds came.

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Out of my first box of 50 rds, I had two failure to feed for the same reason. I also called customer service and was offered the exchange.

I decided not to accept and shoot what I had left for practice only. I have not had a failure since.

[Want to get rid of useless grip screws on 2011 grip]

Hello: Black epoxy or melted old grip. Thanks, Eric

Thank you

[Want to get rid of useless grip screws on 2011 grip]

What are people using to fill it in ?

[40 cal crimp ?]

I have forgotten the measurement.

[Where did you purchase a extended opima HP diffusion choke]

The beretta site shows a HP model. I assume this is the same as the optima HP ,which i need , but i can not find a phone number to confirm.

[Perfect Optic for 10.5" patrol rifle in 5.56]

I decided since the rifle was for close engagements rather than far ,went with a dot 1x sight with a 3x magnifier on a pivot mount just incase distance was needed.

[JP trigger reduced power spring kit?]

will it work on a colt 9mm carbine trigger?

[Grams follower locking back slide leaving one round]

Brazos has a little write up on their website under Tips & Tricks ; http://www.brazoscustom.com/Home.htm "Slide lock back or not"

Very helpful, thanks.

[Grams follower locking back slide leaving one round]

How do you tune the follower without deactivating slide lock back?

[1301 bolt release #?]

lucas, the screw only engages the latch itself, not the frame. a pin holds the latch in place in the frame....perhaps the spring which hold the latch in place broke? if the screw broke or stripped you should be able to remove it and the problem will remain. you can see the schematic located here....

http://www.brownells.com/schematics/Beretta-/1301-Competition-sid1060.aspx#s57252sid1060[/quote

I finally went out and purchased longer screws as recommend and reinstalled the latch, problem gone.

[I need a new STI 2011 38/40 extractor?]

Does STI 2011 use the same extractor as the 1911?

[ACE ARF-X Buttstock Install Problem]

The YouTube instructions I saw mentions the importants of a water base lube. That's what was necessary for me to install mine.

[Tac-Com super light buffer system.]

As explained to me, the lightest set up if you have a RIFLE length buffer tube is using the CARBINE UL system with the spacer and a carbine buffer spring. That is what I did and works fine.

[Tac-Com super light buffer system.]

My gun worked good today with the RCA ajustable carrier and Taccom LW carbine buffer with spacer without needing a titanium firing pin and a McFarland ring. However, I have them if needed.

[Rubber City Armory -- Adjustable Gas Key (on the BCG)]

OK, I might be on crack, but why couldn't the gas adjusting set screw have the allen key opening on the gas side, so you could use two wrenches at the same time and hold your setting while you torqued it down?

On the RCA design, the set screws run downwards at an angle - I doubt you could reach them from the front of the gas key. I recall that Sun Devil offers something similar, on which the set screw DOES run parallel with the key, so your approach might work in that case.

Wow, looked it up, got to check that out. I think I want to compare to my RCA.

[1301 bolt release #?]

Don't need the latch anyway. The RNT release tab from Taccom will be better.

[1301 bolt release #?]

After 200 rds I start having a problem quad loading. All of the sudden, I keep running into the bolt release. I guess that maybe the bolt release is sticking up further, as stupid as it might sound because I can't tell by looking at it ,but I can't figure why all of the sudden I can no longer quad load ,like I have been.

I attempted to see if the screw is snug. The screw just turns. I hope the threads are not stripped in the receiver like the bottom threads on the screw. I read that I need a longer M3X6 screw that I can purchase at Home Depot. Is that correct?

[Quad load difficulty with Beretta 1301]

Apparently , it is somewhat of an inconvenience when I asked about moving the serial number from who I have had all the work done. I learned a long time ago never ask a gun smith to do something they would rather not.

For me, having one side lowered is an improvement, but it needs both sides lowered to be optimal. I have sent my 1301 in twice now , and I am past the point of no return.

[Quad load difficulty with Beretta 1301]

Mine begins higher at the stock end but gradually sloped down to where yours is.

[Quad load difficulty with Beretta 1301]

Having the one side of the loading port angled lower and a lifter with less tension is definitely an improvement. However, being able to lower the other side of the port also would have been best.

[Quad load difficulty with Beretta 1301]

I hope C- Rums figured it out.

[Quad load difficulty with Beretta 1301]

I am having C-RUMS angle down one side and lesson the tension on the lifter. The lifter as it it is now wants to push up the second shell during the start of the quad load and may alone be the biggest cause of my problem . We will see.

[Quad load difficulty with Beretta 1301]

I am going to lower the one side which I believe will enhance my quad loads. However, I need to know at what angle and how low is recommended. For example, where do I start. The entire length or start funneling down midway or from the beginning?

[Quad load difficulty with Beretta 1301]

Currently on Shot Gun Technical there is a 12 min of quad loading tips. The loading port is heavily opened up with both of the sides angled down towards the barrel. This I see a lot on shotguns used by pro shooters and other fast movers. You can not do that on a 1301 because of the serial number on one side is in the way. As a result there is little to know fudge factor with the 1301, it seems.

I assume the serial number can not legally be moved ,so what about lowering only the other side which since I am loading strong hand anyway might be a benefit ,or will the other side that can not be lowered get in the way?

[Is timing Jerry Miculek comp necessary?]

Is the 1 o'clock timing necessary for strait up shooting generally or if you are shooting open class while canting your rifle for close targets?