caspian guy
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Posts posted by caspian guy
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Not sure I'd want a 416. But the HK AR mags that were developed for them are all good.
Peter
FY-39604
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In the right hands with the right load a gun like that would still work pretty well. I like the standard length slide that is cut back to commander length. I also like the aluminum honeycomb and carbon fiber scope mount.
Load it with 135gr bullets and a 170mm mag that holds 26ish rounds. Good to go even with the tube sight.
Peter Adams
FY-39604
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I never would have believed it, but apparently Lithuanian .308 does actually exist. A brief Google search shows it available at AIM surplus.
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I have had good luck with the 75gr BTHP.
Peter
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Some times you just have to beat a dead horse...
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http://www.chron.com/disp/story.mpl/editor...ok/5704151.html
for those that want to read it.
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Yep afraid so
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I'm getting ready make some aluminum test comps. A while back I read an article in Front Sight about testing AR compensators. They built a couple rigs to measure recoil, etc. I'm wondering if a guy could just use a pistol rest and videotape the shots from the side (with a ruler in the background), and then use a video editing program to see the frames so that you could measure the muzzle lift?
Beyond noting how it "feels" to me, I'm wanting an easy, quantifiable test. Got any ideas?
Darren
Not sure about a test rig but you might want to look at borrowing a Casio EX-F1 camera. It has a claimed 1200 fps video mode that along with some test scale cards might be useful.
The link is to a product demo video. Looks interesting.
Peter
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Glad you are OK... I did that on a 650 once and ended up cooking off the whole stack... My ears rang for days.
Peter
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From an optical and durability standpoint I much prefer that scope to a C-More. Just wish it didn't weigh so much.
I had that scope's predecessor (one of the ones with the built in mount) on 9x25 STI and always liked it. Of course I guess if I was really worried about weight I wouldn't shoot a steel framed open gun now
Peter
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Get one of the B&T mounts.
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Mine has a 10# variable and a thin shock buff in it.
Peter
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Well I have finally COMPLETED my first ever build from ground up and I have to admit it turned out BETTER than I expected!! And first off (for the peanut gallery) IT DOES SHOOT AND SHOOTS VERY WELL THANK YOU!! Started out with STI frame, Trubor Barrel and 5" bald STI slide. It contains the following; extreme engineering Ultimate trigger kit (sear, hammer and disconnect), SV Triglide trigger and sear spring, Ice magwell, Matt McLearn M2i long firing pin, aftec super comp extractor, Brazo's tuned ejector, allchin c-more mount, EGW one piece guide rod, Ed Brown memory groove beavertail, Swenson safties, 10lb wolff variable power recoil spring (it feels HEAVY for a 10lb spring though) and thats about it!!
I took everything and started to work. Fitting the slide to the frame was fairly simple. Barrel to slide was a BIT more difficult to get proper lockup tolerance (most difficult part to be honest). Milling the 1degree angle on slide for comp fit no problem. Milling/Drilling the 3 popple holes was easy. Drilling and tapping for allchin mount was easy. Reaming the chamber to .38 Super Comp no problem. Trigger kit was drop in with a little work on the top rear of the disconnect. Cutting bottom barrel lugs and fitting barrel link and slide stop wasn't an issue. Of course there were lots of polishing and rounding of edges and other several other things that common sense tells you to do....
Dot tracks true, straight up and back down. Makes 167 PF with 7.8 gr N350, 124 gr MG loaded to 1.225 OAL same load as my other gun.
I have ran 400 rounds through it yesterday and today without any hitches (knocking on WOOD).
My next decision is to hardchrome or turn it into a BLACK gun????
Of course I have PICTURES of the gun before I mounted the allchin/c-more or drilled the popple holes, then the completed project. I also practiced some Bedell cuts on my practice slide which turned out well also....
Now I have to figure out a way to break the news to ole' reliable that there is a new girl in town......
Dang Randal didn't leave much meat on that slide did you? I like it. I vote you send it to Virgil for chrome before its too late.
Peter
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Tony,
Glad you got a chance to come down and shoot with us.
I think all of us but Randal need to take your grandson's advice.
Peter
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At 1-3 yards I may or may not see the dot. Beyond there I try to always see the dot.
I find that if I present the gun correctly during the draw the dot is right there, on close shots I might not be paying that much attention to it
but it is there. Peter Adams
FY-39604
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Would Stefan do a thing like that....
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I'd exchange it.
My V3 point of impact stays the same when I change between 1, 2, and 3x
I haven't seen this problem with mine either.
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All I can say is this... I have been shooting a 6" limited gun with a lightened slide since late 2002. It took a bit of time to get used to it (mine has a bull barrel and so is a bit nose heavy). But with the right weight springs and the correct ammo (like 4.3-4.2 grains of TG with a 185gr precision coated bullet) my performance with it is better than my performance with my short dustcover bull barrel SV (my backup gun).
In my case the speed seems to be about the same but my hits tend to be better (ie it is more tolerant of sight miss-alignment) and I find it easier to call my shots with it. I have tried going back to the 5" gun because I tell myself it must be quicker somehow. For me at at least it isn't and my hits are worse.
YMMV
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$15 for 5-6 stages. 100-150 rounds.
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As long as it doesn't leave the lens and goes straight up and comes back down I am good. Is it possible to cut that down? Like HSMITH absolutely.
My first open gun was a 9x25 cannon with 3 reverse angle comp ports and 1 straight up port. When burning some ungodly charge of N110 it was completely flat to the point that you could actually see the dot dip down under certain conditions. I never could learn to call my shots with that gun.
I discovered I needed dot movement of 2.5-3 to be able to call my shots. It was like there was some minimum amount of dot movement required for me to see what I needed to see to call the shot.
Peter
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First, Dave, Peter, Cactus - It's my thread, drift away.
I'm in the market for new glass. Unfortunately, I'm not rich and I can't keep buying until I get what I want so I have to rely on the opinions of others. Informed, descriptive opinions of people who actively shoot 3 Gun are invited and appreciated.
BTW, I called Nightforce as part of this quest and the 1-4 is not available with the NP-R1 or NP-R2 reticle. The 1-4 is available with the FC-2, NP-1 and Close Range Mil Dot. The 2.5 to 10 adds the NP-R2. In order to get the NP-R1 you must go to the 3.5-15.
Cactus - any idea on when the 1-4 IOR will be available?
Thanks, please keep the posts coming.
Huh... That is interesting...
They list it on their website http://www.nightforceoptics.com/?catid=1&viewitem=150 (it shows up if you go down to the second pane where they compare specs of the 1-4 with the 2.5-10 scroll down to show the reticles that are available on each.)
Of course, to me it seems likely based on your conversations with them that it is a misprint...
Goes to show you you can't believe every thing you read.
Peter
Pete,
Nightforceoptics.com is the old website. The new one is Nightforcescopes.com and it lists the correct optics. There is a rumor that the 1-4 can be had with the NP-R1 reticle but I haven't been able to confirm it. When my contact gets back I'll see what I can find out.
That explains it.
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Must be nice.
The clouds started rolling in down here at 5 this evening. All I can see is a glow from behind the clouds.
Enjoy,
Peter
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Cactus,
If the new IOR 1-4 has more eye relief than the 1.1-4 IOR I have on my backup rifle it would be very interesting indeed.
I generally like the IOR CQB reticle (Not wild about the horseshoe above the dot, though. Mater of personal preference I guess...)
Is the new scope illuminated? If so are they going to be able to boost the brightness of the illumination?
Peter
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For a quick estimate go to gunbroker and search for it in completed auctions. I usually like to sort by highest number of bids first. I like this method because it shows what people are actually paying.
For a more precise estimate than that like others have said an advanced collector or a specialist.
Peter Adams
but it is there. 
A couple of Tacticool AR's
in The Gallery
Posted
I kinda like number 2... Cause every rifle looks meaner with a can.