nkresho

Here's the clymer after a failed attempt at one single s2 barrel, and the pt&g on the right with at least a dozen barrels cut.

Here's what I ended up going with. I tried the Clymer first with tons of cutting oil and barely any downward pressure and my S2 barrel just gnawed away at it. $60 paperweight... PT&G took maybe 2-3 months to arrive. $207 out the door. Order it and forget about it, it'll just show up one day. I have cut three shadow 2s, two Sp01s, one p07, a scorpion evo, and a handful of glocks with it and it's showing some signs of slight dulling, but still cuts decently. My intended length was RMR heavy matchwinners at >1.14" so i could comfortably load them to ~1.10" and never worry about outliers. I switched to blue 125TC and can load them as long as the mag will accept, but i settled on 1.125" I highly recommend PT&G for anyone interested in grabbing their own reamer. Just be ready for a little wait.

In dry and live fire, does DA and SA work properly?

I just used a ball shaped dremel bit on mine. Sort of the opposite. Mine are black so the contrast works well.

Please don't take this the wrong way, but you are pulling the trigger all the way to the rear when lowering the hammer, right? Also, gun operates totally normally when dry firing and live firing at the range? DA and SA both work as expected? Lowering the hammer at LAMR is basically a DA pull with you preventing the hammer from hitting the FP using your fingers.

I found this to be relatively helpful when comparing the same things. Not sure it's absolutely accurate, but definitely throws a value on things like powder charge in relation to felt recoil. https://shooterscalculator.com/recoil-calculator.php I used to run 147 heavy matchwinners from RMR on top of 3.4 ASP that combo yielded an average of 128 power factor using my shooting chrony (reads lower than labradar). recoil impulse: 0.64 lbs.sec recoil velocity: 10.35 fps recoil energy: 3.33 ft.lbf Recently I started loading blue 125 truncated cone under 3.8 ASP, that one yielded 129 power factor on average recoil impulse: 0.66 lbs.sec recoil velocity: 10.56 fps recoil energy: 3.47 ft.lbf Imperceivable difference between the two for me. If i had to guess, the 125s maybe feel slightly more recoil? I've gone back and forth one mag of 125s and the next mag 147s. Audibly the 147 are a tad bit quieter. I imagine the perception of recoil will also take into account the sound. It is worth noting that the coated require less powder at the same bullet weight. Less powder in that calculator (all other things the same) will give les recoil too.

Just to throw this in to the necro post... I run my fa tumbler in the trunk of my car in the garage. Lower one of the back windows like 2" and run the ext cord in. Pass through the "ski" hole into the trunk. So quiet my wife approves when wah directly above the garage.

Not just the extractor spring, but i also recommend a thorough cleaning of the extractor channel and the extractor itself every 5k or so rounds. Worth it to swap in a new spring too then, especially if you end up needing to re-zero an optic to get in there. Dirty extractor will give you symptoms similar to a weak mag spring, where the new round stripped off the mag gets part way into the chamber and stops short, it typically will not go to battery and the rim will not get all the way under the extractor claw. It'll happen intermittently at first then get progressively worse.

I prefer the short reset disco as well as the cajun race hammer in mine. The hammer gets the break as close (crisp and light) to a nice light 1911 trigger as you can get in this platform. The little bit of creep prior to the break is eliminated. The disco brings the trigger closer to the rear so rest to wall to break to reset all happen in a smaller window of movement. Top it all off with a nice trigger that has pre and over travel adjustment and it's about as good as it gets. With the hammer you'll also need to fit the sear so the safety works. Or grab the adjustable sear and drop it right in with one single adjustment. I've done both ways and prefer to just do the adjustable and be done with it. For me, with the full cajun pro kit with the 11.5 pound hammer spring i get about 6# DA and 2.25# SA. Never had a light strike on a cci or federal primer (all i load) in about 20k rounds this past season.

I'd add the factory trigger return spring to your order too. You may have the lighter one in there. The hammer spring will not give you much increase in SA but will really increase the DA pull. Beyond that, maybe check out some other hammers, they impact SA pull weight also. https://czcustom.com/cz-parts-all/hammers/czc-4lb-hammer.html

I still shoot mainly 147 MWs but have done some load testing with the 124s. Here's mine to throw in the hat: shadow 2 factory barrel ran this test in July so upper 70s, all ran over shooting chrony with sky shields on, 10' muzzle to chronograph, all 10 shot groups, and using mixed brass. I've found that the increased thickness of CBC brass by the base causes an increase in pressure enough to bump the speed up. These tests include some of that brass which accounts of a lot of the variation in velocity. I'd guess maybe 10-20% of my brass is CBC lately. 4.1 grains n320 and FED SPP under 124 MW 1.085" OAL: 994.9-1039 (123-127 power factor) 4.2 grains n320 and FED SPP under 124 MW 1.085" OAL: 1002-1068 (124.248-128.96 power factor) 4.3 grains n320 and FED SPP under 124 MW 1.085" OAL: 1013-1089 (125.6-130.2 power factor) 4.4 grains n320 and FED SPP under 124 MW 1.085" OAL: 1050-1073 (130.2-131.44 power factor) After being chronoed at a sectional last season, I can say that my chrony does read conservatively compared to the labradar they used. The labradar gave me 888, 895, and 913 from a load that consistently gave me an average of about 870 (128pf) with my chrony.

Any burrs or sharp corners on the barrel in the area that touches the lugs? With the orange, is there any chance of rotating the barrel at all when installing it? Mine are regular fixed bushings, so never took an orange apart. That said, if you wanted to score it like that with a dental pick, I bet it would take way more force than you apply when reassembling by hand. Has to be another cause.

Shadow 2 dirty extractor has similar symptoms one you fully rule out magazine issues. Mine need a little scrub every 2500 or so rounds. They get just dirty enough that the new round has a hard time pushing underneath. Also check the breech face for any not smooth areas from the lowest point up. Round isn't far enough up/in to blame oal, comp, or brass inconsistencies.

My Sp01 tac (decocker) definitely does not extend past the breech face with the razor blade test, even with the fp safety plunger depressed. I'm thinking that fp is not extended that comes with the cgw pro kit.

Mine (S2) definitely extends past. Here's a razor blade against the rear end.