dirtybomb

I just had Bill Springfield do a trigger job on my MP5. I have not gauged the pull but I would put it in the 5# range with almost no pre or over travel. It is WAY better than stock and is eminently useable for PCC. There might be a few MP5 features I don't love for pcc but now the trigger pull isn't one of them.

Another great match!

I have been using a Nordic tube on my Benelli M1 and currently only get 8 in the tube. I think I have a +5 but can't remember. What is the shortest tube I can get away with and still get 10 in the tube? Thanks

I would be surprised if a new follower and spring didn't solve the problem. I have started to change the spring every six months regardless and it has saved a lot of headaches.

Are the 24"'s in yet?

Sell your buddy the M1 with the 26" barrel. If I am reading this correctly this will leave you with a M1 and M2 with a 21", 24", and 26". Those lengths are everything you could possibly want. Most people are reading this and wishing they had your dilemma. You can use any of those barrels on your guns with the appropriate hand guard. Try each out and see what you like best. 26" doesn't handle well for me but you may feel differently.

I was told by a Swarovski rep at the Shot show that the new second gen scopes had a battery saving feature that when the scope was side ways or up side down that the dot will shut off. The theory being that if the scope was side ways the rifle had probably been set down. It made me happy that I had just received a first gen scope as there are times in 3 gun where the gun may be sideways. Have you noticed this to be the case in your second gen scope or was the rep misinformed?

#1

Just a thought for your stock searches. I have found that when using a variable power scope you are going to need to move your cheek up and down on the stock based on the power of magnification. On 6x due to the eye relief of the scope I need to be fairly close to the scope and this put me off of the stock and onto the buffer tube which I find to be an annoying cheek weld. I have long arms so running the stock at a short position isn't an option or I feel like T-rex shooting a gun. I am currently using a Vltor A2 fixed stock which offers a great cheek weld throughout the entire stock. Other stocks that would work well if this is an issue for you too would be the Magpul PRS, the UBR, Ace ARFX, and any old A1 or A2 stock. Just something to consider.

I was in the same spot your in numerous years back. There is not a ton you can do if you don't like the ghost rings (which are a disadvantage for 3 gun). You can try to find a 21" or 24" barrel and remove the rear ghost ring. Outside or this the best option is to sell it/trade it. You should be able to do an even trade money wise from your M1 to an M1 with either a vent rib barrel of an 18.5" bead barrel. The vent rib guns can be hard to find but there are plenty of people in the tactical market with bead guns that wish they had a ghost ring gun, at least with a bead gun there are options. Before I found a vent rib barrel for my M1 I was going to send my bead barrel to Benny Hill so he could dove tail in a fiber optic sight. I tried to shoot a few matches with my ghost ring gun and hated it, eventually the only solution was to sell it and move on.

It looks interesting. What kind of stock does it go on?

That is pretty typical out of AR-15s, some more noticeable than others. Try a JP Rifles tuned buffer spring, it does seem to help some. I tried a small plastic disk that snaps into the end of the buffer spring that Brownells sells call a "Twang Buster" but it didn't seem to help too much. For awhile I ran a hydraulic buffer in a gun and it totally eliminated it. I have since bought a JP rifle and never noticed it again.

Hey Roger, what is your e mail address so I can order some pads? Thanks

Any thoughts on making a production version?

Thank God for hbogo.com or I would have missed this series. It is a gem.