G29SF

After a ton of work and research, I found my primer problem to be the white tab being too tight against the case. The case needs wiggle room to align with the inbound primer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A full-featured 650 with separate swager is only a few hundred dollars less than a 1050. The 1050 comes standard with case feeder and setup with a caliber - including dies. Honestly, the money isn't that far apart. Where the money starts to add up is if you buy dedicated tool heads for all your calibers. If you simply use the same tool head, it isn't so bad. Caliber conversion kits are more expensive too, but there is a lot of crossover. Depending on the calibers, you can probably just buy certain pieces to save money. For me, the 1050 is a pleasure to operate and is very time efficient once setup. I am glad I got the 1050. Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Tapatalk

" It's just plain price increases because of demand. " LOL... That is how capitalism works. Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Tapatalk

How will they know if I shot factory or hand loads? Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Tapatalk

My guess is you will be scrutinized if you own reloading equipment. I shoot factory ammo (Underwood) that has Starline head stamps. I have reloads that have factory (Win, Hornady, Speer, etc.) head stamps. At any given time, I don't know what is in my mags. It just isn't something I am going to worry about. Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Tapatalk

I should add, for 180gr bullets, your listed range of grains of powder you are safe. Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Board Express

I load 180gr Hornady JFP, with 9.5gr of Longshot. Never an issue. These are my "good" practice loads. I also load 200gr Hornady XTPs with the same 9.5gr of Longshot. (I use the same powder drop, without adjustment, for both loads.) The 200gr XTPs are my "awesome" loads. Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Board Express

Hopefully poster "Dillon" will chime in. Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Board Express

Make sure there are no extractor nicks on the rim of your cases. There are alot of guns that will nick them. If there are nicks, you can quickly file the nicks smooth. I'll bet that they will guage correctly. I agree with the above post. If most of your rounds drop into the EGW .223 gage -- but some don't -- it is a case issue because the gage is not changing from round to round. I drop every round I load into a case gage (I have case gages for all of my calibers). The only time I have had issues is where lead built-up around the case mouth (on pistol rounds) or when an extractor mark protuded a little. Both situation are easily fixed and probably would not have resulted in any problem had I just boxed them up. By the way... when available, I prefer Dillon case gages. They seem most accurate to me. I bought a Wilson gage once for 357 SIG... and hate it. Not only does it not do what I thought it should do, I think it is incorrect on what it IS supposed to do. I have dropped factory rounds in that gage and things are off. I simply use my 357 SIG barrel for a gage on those rounds. (Easy to do with a pistol barrel.)

I have a newer one. (About 18 months old.) It works great. Thus far, I have only used CCI primers... and see no reason to change. I will probably buy a second... and dedicate them to primer size. Sent from my RM-820_nam_att_100 using Board Express

Had I not found this thread, I would have done the same thing. Sounds like the seat and crimp dies for the 1050 are shorter. Probably took some off the bottom of the dies. My guess is the modified "1050" dies would work on other presses also. Not sure why the two different versions. I can't speak for Dillon, but I imagine they would exchange them for you.

180gr at 170 pf is what, 950 fps? I didn't realize you could make a 10mm go that slow? When I think 10mm, I think 250 pf range...

On the SS-600 I can see using your feel. You just don't push the handle past a certain resistance. Your feel essentially adjusts for each and every case! On the 1050 however, the swage rod and backup need to be set correctly... because you have to bottom the handle on every pull. On the SS-600 is ONLY swaging. On the 1050, you are ALSO doing sizing, priming, dumping powder, seating and crimping. If you don't pull the handle down all of the way, those other tasks are not going to take place correctly. I realize everyone knows this already... I was just stating the obvious. Those that do not have the 1050 may not realize the subtle difference. The GOOD news is, once I loaded my 5k piece box of 5.56, I never had to swage them again! Once the "big sort" is done, sorting is only necessary as new brass in introduced.

I used to swage mixed brass on my 1050... then I realized that some came out "not swaged enough", some caused the machine to bind due to "over swaging" (which caused the toolhead to not come down all of the way, which causes other issues as you can imagine) and of course some came out "just right". Then I started to separate the brass and adjust the swaging to each brass manufacturer. All my problems went away... especially primer seating.

I use Dillon lube and do not tumble post-loading. The rounds go straight from the bin to the case gage to the box.