Petrov Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 Finally got around to installing the APEX hammer on my 627. Got the Khunhausen manual. I was filing the double action sear on a flat surface moving the stone against it both on a flat surface. I did my best but I cut the sear lopsided, when I pull the trigger you can see the hammer moving sideways in the beginning of the pull. I guess I have to get another sear. Is there a way or a tool or a jig that can help me file the damn thing flat? I gave it the right amount of letout and clearance but at this point I can "straighten" the sear as the clearance between the hammer and the DA sear will be too great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alecmc Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 (edited) I can "straighten" the sear as the clearance between the hammer and the DA sear will be too great. You probably answered your own question there. If you were to straight it out, it would likely be too short. Buy another sear, You can buy them from apex, I think they are around 40 dollars each. ( call them ) Or, you can buy some a 3 pack from Bowen Classic Arms for around 35-40 bucks - http://parts.bowenclassicarms.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=54 Edited February 18, 2016 by alecmc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FWSixgunner Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 Does he need a forged sear? MIM sears are quite a bit less: https://www.gunpartscorp.com/Products/315990.htm Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 (edited) The MIM and forged hammer sears are quite a bit different. They do not interchange. For stoning of the Trigger, Hammer and Sear, use a flat piece of steel and a 1/2" square x 4" long stone. Lay the stone flat on the steel near the edge. Lay the part flat on the steel and draw it along the stone. This way the part stays square and the stone and steel don't wear on each other, as the stone is stationary. As the stone wears from the parts, turn the stone so the part is on a fresh area of the stone. Edited February 18, 2016 by Toolguy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bosshoss Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 A lot of sears from the factory are not cut perfect. This is another benefit of MIM sears as they float in the hammer and sort of self center and even if not cut perfect work just fine. Saves a lot of time fitting them at the factory. Put a shim on each side of hammer to limit the side to side play and your sear may work just fine until you get the chance to get another one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petrov Posted February 18, 2016 Author Share Posted February 18, 2016 (edited) Thank you tool guy! Edit. I did something similar but used a piece of glass, still came out bad. Looking at my stone I think used it/abused it too much so its not shaped properly and it cut the sear lopsided. Edited February 18, 2016 by Petrov Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 (edited) Finally got around to installing the APEX hammer on my 627. Got the Khunhausen manual. I was filing the double action sear on a flat surface moving the stone against it both on a flat surface. I did my best but I cut the sear lopsided, when I pull the trigger you can see the hammer moving sideways in the beginning of the pull. I guess I have to get another sear. Is there a way or a tool or a jig that can help me file the damn thing flat? You need a panavise to hold the part being stoned whether it is a trigger, sear, hammer face, etc. You also need new stones with a nice flat face. Harbor Freight sells cheap stones if you are only doing one job. As you are stoning, I use my workbench light to look at the reflection on the sear's cut which tells you if you're "leaning" or cutting uneven. Edited February 19, 2016 by bountyhunter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
granderojo Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 A piece of plate glass 3/8 or thicker, 1/4 will work, from your glass man. He can make the edges square. Used is best. Makes a very good poor man's surface plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FWSixgunner Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 I don't know that I'd use Harbor Freight if you only need one or two. I use these. This company also has great prices and lightening fast shipping: https://www.zoro.com/norton-sharpening-file-sq-ao-orangebrown-med-61463686145/i/G3378112/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
314shane Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 (edited) You can flatten your stones with a piece of glass and some fine grit sand paper. If you wet the sand paper it will stay in place on the glass. Then put some pencil marks on the face of the stone and sand till all the marks are gone. Woodworkers do this very often with the stones they sharpen their chisels and planes with. It works really well for me. Hope this saves you a few bucks on stones Edited February 20, 2016 by 314shane Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 I square my stones up with a surface grinder. Lacking that, a coarse grit diamond stone works fine. With the diamond stone you will need to be careful about keeping the sides exactly 90 degrees to each other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
314shane Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 I knew someone would bring up keeping the edges square. The diamond stone is definitely a better way to flatten your stones but can be expensive if you need a larger one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FWSixgunner Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 True, but after flattening one face, you need something to index the flat face against that's 90-degrees to the surface you're flattening on. It serves the same purpose as a jointer fence. You'd have to hold the flat face flat against the "fence". Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
314shane Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 Yes that's exactly correct. When you flatten stones by hand all you really know is that the side you flattened is flat. Keep that in mind when using them. A surface grinder like toolguy uses is one way to avoid this. Your question also made me curious if they were all square out of the box or not. Maybe toolguy could tell us his findings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 I have found that new ones are sometimes square and sometimes not. Exact squareness doesn't seem to be a checkpoint in the quality control department. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FWSixgunner Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 I'd be especially wary of Harbor Freight stones. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miranda Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 hand cutting metal is often a little off square or tapered. there are a couple of things I find help. ink from a sharpie on the face being cut will help you see if you start cutting one side more, I find filing at different angles lets me see if I have missed any spots and I often use a square that I can run the part against If you use a back light you can see the smallest cracks where the part is not at the right angle. believe me I truly hate doing all that careful cutting and end up with a bad part. do everything you can to see your work, and watch carefully. miranda Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 (edited) Another trick to cut a square "face" on a part: set the panavise and then adjust the angle of the part so that your file should be level (or vertical) to cut the correct angle onto the piece. The eye detects variance from level very accurately. Also: use a fairly large flat stone so you can see it is level and it's easier to stay consistent. I use cheap knife sharpening stones because they are cheap enough I can cut a couple of sears or hammers and pitch them. Edited February 22, 2016 by bountyhunter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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