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Replacement USPSA Revolver


357454

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As I mentioned in an earlier post, sixinch enjoyed shooting revolver so much at the Memphis St Judes charity match that he talked me out of one of my 6 1/2" 625 hybrid. When we got back from Memphis my quest was on to replace the gun with something comparable which is quite a chore lately due to availability of barrels and the price of new guns. Looking thru the safe I found a very nice model 28 that hadn't been used much and honestly I had never fired as well as the 5" barrel I had removed from my first 6 1/2" conversion. Looking in gunparts I found a cylinder for a model 625 in 45acp and plans for a new gun qere quickly put into action. First step was to rebuild my 625 as a stock 5", the second part was to rebuild the model 28 as a 6 1/2" 45acp with stainless cylinder, green fibre optic front sight and Millett rear. Along the way I had to build a new frame stud as the one I ordered from Brownells allowed the cylinder to move too far to the rear when reloading, I also modified a set of Hogue "auction" grips to suit my preference. Last night I got a chance to shoot the gun and set the double action pull which came out at a smooth 6 3/4 lbs. Accuracy at 10 yards shooting off hand with less than ideal lighting produced 1" 12 round groups using 230 cast bullets and 3.8 grains of clays. Looks like I might have a keeper, now if I can only remember to look at the front sight while shooting a match my scores should improve.

As soon as I can figure how to down load images I will attach a pic.

Good shooting!USPSAguns021.jpg

Edited by 357454
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Wow! You did that yourself? I've been studying barrel swaps with hopes to start to DIY that too. Care to tell us what tools you needed to do the job? I get conflicting reports of what is needed to set cylinder gap and things like that.

Well done!

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Wow! You did that yourself? I've been studying barrel swaps with hopes to start to DIY that too. Care to tell us what tools you needed to do the job? I get conflicting reports of what is needed to set cylinder gap and things like that.

Well done!

I have been accumulating revolver tools for the last Ten years, as fas as the barrel swap is concerned I use an insert from Maryland gun works for the frame and then cover the barrel with stainless steel tape before I clamp it in my vise into which I use two pieces of wood to equalize the pressure. I was very lucky in fitting the barrel as the replacement 6 1/2" screwed in perfectly and left me with a .006 barrel to cylinder gap ( optimum seems to be .004 to .005)

I check the gap with a set of feeler gauges. If the gap had been too tight I have a set of facing and forcing cone reamers I purchased from Brownells. The hardest parts of this swap were cutting the timing lugs and getting them perfect and fitting the frame lug, since I don't have a lathe I built the lug on my drill press using a cross slide and file. Although I have an extensive set of Micrometers I use for my job, I use dial calipers and a set of feeler gauges for most of my revolver work.

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Whats that thing attached to the hammer? :unsure:

I am not quite ready to go topless at this time, what I have done is reduce the size of the hammer spur and although you can't see it I have skeletonized the lower part similar to Randy Lees Apex Hammer.

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I check the gap with a set of feeler gauges. If the gap had been too tight I have a set of facing and forcing cone reamers I purchased from Brownells. The hardest parts of this swap were cutting the timing lugs and getting them perfect and fitting the frame lug, since I don't have a lathe I built the lug on my drill press using a cross slide and file. Although I have an extensive set of Micrometers I use for my job, I use dial calipers and a set of feeler gauges for most of my revolver work.

No issues with the ridge on the frame that can happen under the old barrel? That's my biggest worry. Setting the cylinder gap and forcing cone angles is very straightforward. My understanding is that if you find that ridge you need a lathe to remove it and square up the frame face.

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Nice job. I just finished some load developement for my new ".41SS" (.41 mag cut down just below special lenght, hence 41 ss for short special). Try a 41 special for your next revo project, as I've done the load developement already and I'll gladly share my results

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How did you install the F/O front site ? I've got a 25-2 I'd like to get a F/O on. it appears to have the same ramp as yours, but I see no pins. It looks as if it was machined from a solid piece ?

Thanks

Glenn

As I mentioned in an earlier post, sixinch enjoyed shooting revolver so much at the Memphis St Judes charity match that he talked me out of one of my 6 1/2" 625 hybrid. When we got back from Memphis my quest was on to replace the gun with something comparable which is quite a chore lately due to availability of barrels and the price of new guns. Looking thru the safe I found a very nice model 28 that hadn't been used much and honestly I had never fired as well as the 5" barrel I had removed from my first 6 1/2" conversion. Looking in gunparts I found a cylinder for a model 625 in 45acp and plans for a new gun qere quickly put into action. First step was to rebuild my 625 as a stock 5", the second part was to rebuild the model 28 as a 6 1/2" 45acp with stainless cylinder, green fibre optic front sight and Millett rear. Along the way I had to build a new frame stud as the one I ordered from Brownells allowed the cylinder to move too far to the rear when reloading, I also modified a set of Hogue "auction" grips to suit my preference. Last night I got a chance to shoot the gun and set the double action pull which came out at a smooth 6 3/4 lbs. Accuracy at 10 yards shooting off hand with less than ideal lighting produced 1" 12 round groups using 230 cast bullets and 3.8 grains of clays. Looks like I might have a keeper, now if I can only remember to look at the front sight while shooting a match my scores should improve.

As soon as I can figure how to down load images I will attach a pic.

Good shooting!USPSAguns021.jpg

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How did you install the F/O front site ? I've got a 25-2 I'd like to get a F/O on. it appears to have the same ramp as yours, but I see no pins. It looks as if it was machined from a solid piece ?

Thanks

Glenn

Some, but not all of the 25-2 barrels had pinned sights, take a close look at the side and front of your ramp, if you can see the outline of the pin @1/16" or a line between the ramp and sight yours should be easy to replace, however if you have one with the machined barrel and sight you will need to have the sight milled off and the barrel milled out to accept either a pinned in factory sight or something like the classic sight.

As I mentioned in an earlier post, sixinch enjoyed shooting revolver so much at the Memphis St Judes charity match that he talked me out of one of my 6 1/2" 625 hybrid. When we got back from Memphis my quest was on to replace the gun with something comparable which is quite a chore lately due to availability of barrels and the price of new guns. Looking thru the safe I found a very nice model 28 that hadn't been used much and honestly I had never fired as well as the 5" barrel I had removed from my first 6 1/2" conversion. Looking in gunparts I found a cylinder for a model 625 in 45acp and plans for a new gun qere quickly put into action. First step was to rebuild my 625 as a stock 5", the second part was to rebuild the model 28 as a 6 1/2" 45acp with stainless cylinder, green fibre optic front sight and Millett rear. Along the way I had to build a new frame stud as the one I ordered from Brownells allowed the cylinder to move too far to the rear when reloading, I also modified a set of Hogue "auction" grips to suit my preference. Last night I got a chance to shoot the gun and set the double action pull which came out at a smooth 6 3/4 lbs. Accuracy at 10 yards shooting off hand with less than ideal lighting produced 1" 12 round groups using 230 cast bullets and 3.8 grains of clays. Looks like I might have a keeper, now if I can only remember to look at the front sight while shooting a match my scores should improve.

As soon as I can figure how to down load images I will attach a pic.

Good shooting!USPSAguns021.jpg

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Nice job. I just finished some load development for my new ".41SS" (.41 mag cut down just below special length, hence 41 ss for short special). Try a 41 special for your next revo project, as I've done the load development already and I'll gladly share my results

Thanks for the offer, I have owned and then sold five different 41 cal. Smiths, last spring I sold all of my 41 reloading equipment along with my last 657, currently I don't have plans for a 41 but a 41 ss might be interesting. I have been thinking about building or buying a 44 special and using 44 Russian brass with moon clips, I have a 6" 44 barely in the safe that is looking for some action.

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I check the gap with a set of feeler gauges. If the gap had been too tight I have a set of facing and forcing cone reamers I purchased from Brownells. The hardest parts of this swap were cutting the timing lugs and getting them perfect and fitting the frame lug, since I don't have a lathe I built the lug on my drill press using a cross slide and file. Although I have an extensive set of Micrometers I use for my job, I use dial calipers and a set of feeler gauges for most of my revolver work.

No issues with the ridge on the frame that can happen under the old barrel? That's my biggest worry. Setting the cylinder gap and forcing cone angles is very straightforward. My understanding is that if you find that ridge you need a lathe to remove it and square up the frame face.

No problems there with this gun, the breach face was nice and square, with what little shooting I have done, it appears to be one of the most accurate revolvers I have at this time.

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