Carlos Posted September 17, 2009 Share Posted September 17, 2009 I agree with you - the magsprings are probably not worn out. The Glock 10 rounders were better than most and my old ones work just fine without ever having the spring replaced or even cleaned for that matter - they were the ONLY Glock mags I had for my Glock 17 for many years during the bad old days of the AWB (AND REMEMBER THAT IT IS STILL THE BAD OLD DAYS FOR OUR USPSA BROTHERS AND SISTERS IN MANY STATES SO KEEP THEM IN YOUR THOUGHTS AND PRAYERS AND TRY TO BE UNDERSTANDING SINCE ITS NOT THEIR FAULT- ok i feel better now). Whew! Anyway, if the rounds are actually popping out of the mag the feedlips, then they are definitly out of spec. Are you sure it is not just a double-feed with an otherwise-good mag? Glock is good about replacing mags that let rounds pop out. If the mags are bad, you might ask Glock for help. Personally, I think your aftermarket barrel is out of spec in some dimension and you should simply put the stock barrel back it. Regards, C (a former California resident). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaze1a Posted September 18, 2009 Author Share Posted September 18, 2009 Thanks for your input. You would think that the mags themselves would be the problem but I compared them visually and they looked good when compared to other mags. I measured them with a dial caliper and they were within a 1/1000 of a brand new mag so it's not the gap between the lips that is the problem. As a matter of fact, one of the bad mags has a smaller gap than my brand new mag. Whether it's another component of the mag I couldn't say. Comparing the mag springs tension by pushing down the follower with my finger, I can tell which is the new mag because the used mags are easier but not by much. Mag springs are pretty affordable so ordered some extra power Wolff springs and I would think installing the new springs will prove or rule out a mag problem. As for the barrel, I guess I could try it out for testing purposes but sure don't want to since I shoot lead and really want to avoid "the bulge". You know though, I am really starting to wonder if it is not related to slide velocity, as in how fast the slide is cycling. Someone that posted back on another thread made a great comment about the recoil causing the rounds to bounce around in the mag during cycling... And I remebered reading a thread about, and can not remember the details of the thread but he was finding that rounds in a nearly empty mag doing a 180 and ending up in the mag primer end forward IN THE MAG. As I remember, his mag springs were weak... Anyway, the mag springs as well as a 17# recoil spring should be here next week. Will post results after some testing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolguy Posted September 18, 2009 Share Posted September 18, 2009 The only time I can remember seeing that happen was when the mags were for a larger caliber than the rounds in them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaze1a Posted September 18, 2009 Author Share Posted September 18, 2009 (edited) This is a mystery to me as well. I have a brand new mag that has never been loaded or inserted into the well for that matter. I measured the width of the lips and it is within 1/1000th of an inch of the mags I am running. Some were wider by 1/1000" and others were narrower by 1/1000". The mag tubes are all marked 40 and so are the followers. The only difference I can find is that the spring tension "feels" less compared to the new mag. I would think that I would see the rounds popping out with a full mag rather than a nearly empty mag so I guess it would appear that low spring tension is the common factor. I had a reply on another thread where they suggested that the rounds might be bouncing in the mag during cycling and that sounds like a viable scenario. He suggested a stronger recoil spring but did not have one so ordered a 17# srping along with new extra power mag springs. The odd part was that this problem started AFTER I went from a 13# to 15# recoil spring. Don't recall seeing any live rounds ejecting or two rounds stripping during a cycle or rounds sticking out of my mag after dropping that mag when I had the 13# spring installed... I have started to wonder about my cases or rather the condition of my cases. I use a Lee FCD and it smears bullet lube over the length of the case during the sizing. I can feel the lube on the case and it's like having a lubed case in the mag. I'm wondering if that is not contributing to the loaded cases slipping through the lips? But if that is the case, why only when the mag's sping tension is at it's lowest? I guess I'll be able to eliminate some of these questions once my mag springs and the 17# recoil spring arrives... Edited September 18, 2009 by kamikaze1a Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlos Posted September 21, 2009 Share Posted September 21, 2009 I have started to wonder about my cases or rather the condition of my cases. I use a Lee FCD and it smears bullet lube over the length of the case during the sizing. I can feel the lube on the case and it's like having a lubed case in the mag. I'm wondering if that is not contributing to the loaded cases slipping through the lips? But if that is the case, why only when the mag's sping tension is at it's lowest?I guess I'll be able to eliminate some of these questions once my mag springs and the 17# recoil spring arrives... You do not shoot a Tanfoglio - so you likely missed Henning's excellent tutorial on case preparation for reliability. sorry i dont have a link right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamikaze1a Posted September 22, 2009 Author Share Posted September 22, 2009 Sorry, not familiar with that article. Tried a search with Henning/tanfoglio/case preparation and did not find anything... As usual, stuff I am waiting for....arrives the day after a trip to the range. My mag springs and new recoil springs arrived today. Will give them a try this weekend and post a report. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daft Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Have you tried running like 100 rds of factory ammo to rule out the reloads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tyler79durdan Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 I use an old 12 ga bronze brush with a thin layer of 0000 steel wool wrapped around it. I chuck it in my drill and run it for a little while focusing on first section of the chamber where the brass will ride. Ive done this on 2 of my shotguns a pump and an autoloader. Not sure if it helps the extraction process but IMO it cant hurt. The chambers do come out smoother... Same size bore brush+ 0000 steel wool Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mildot1 Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Don't want to sound negative to the last two posters. The thread you replied to is from 2009. Not saying there is not good info but i doubt you will get a reply from the original poster. FWIW Mildot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 I believe it's a given that Glock factory chambers are looser than most aftermarket barrel's chambers. It is definately the case for my LW barrel in 40. I've been getting an occassional failure to return to battery during shoots and after trying a bunch of different remedies, the only thing I can think of is that the tighter chamber is the cause. I know some will probably say, "let a pro do it" but just wondering if anyone has any tips for DIY chamber polishing?Put the Dremel in the closet and set a bowling ball on it. I do throat polishing ONLY by hand using 400 and 600 paper and oil. I use the smooth end of a drill to wrap a strip of paper around, tape it in place then sand in and out motion. Do it in front of the TV, it takes a while but you won't screw it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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