tyler79durdan

I have an P320 X5 Legion with the fat uncaptured GR and I have a P320 X5 Coyote with the captured GR. The two GR are different diameters. The captured GR is much smaller in Diameter and the dust cover/spring tunnel has a smaller opening up front that won’t fit the larger “fat” rod. The tunnel diameter is the same on both slides. I want to change the Coyote to an uncaptured system but I’m not sure who makes a replacement and also if I make my own GR on my lathe, what springs would I use. I feel like the 1911 springs would be way to large of an inside diameter to function efficiently? The other option is to enlarge the GR hole on the Coyote slide to accept a fat rod and use the 1911 springs but that’s a last ditch for me. I need help! Thanks in advance!

*3. http://www.migunowners.org/forum/showthread.php?314955-DIY-Benelli-Franchi-Quick-Bolt-Release-Another-Unusual-quot-tyler79durdan-quot-Project-PIC-WARNING THIS IS A THREAD STARTED FOR MY FRANCHI AFFINITY... post #4 Decided to do my CZ 712. The release lever is slightly different since it does not have the z shaped profile, but rather an L shape that goes through the forearm plate ring via a crudely ground slot(my bad). Ive realized that each application requires fitment. On a side note... Ive begun to get better at my tempering skills. I tried a few different temperatures and quenches and was able to get back all, if not more, of the original spring in the steel. Started out soft and malleable, and wound up with a strong spring great for this type of application. Although the images show a purple tint, it actually went dark blue before final quench in warm oil and returned to the prior purple color. And this is the basic idea minus the tab that slides along the magtube. This really is an easy upgrade to a stubborn, hard pressing bolt button.

*2. http://www.migunowners.org/forum/showthread.php?315854-!PIC-HEAVY!-CZ-712-Light-Strike-*SOLVED*-!PIC-HEAVY! Plagued with a common issue, the CZ 712 is well known for light strike issues. A simple search engine query results in a considerable amount of references to firing pin protrusion issues. My 2013 CZ 712 (identified by the first two numbers in the serial, i.e. "13XXXXXX) is no exception and has light struck many of my reloads which tend to have a deeper primer seat. This is a major concern for me since I require each of my guns to perform equally as well. Although there are many of these references, none have actually explained why or how this light strike occurs. Some have noted CZ gunsmiths referencing early, circa 2004 and older models, having Out Of Battery ignition due to a firing pin design flaw. I noted in my online research, that a recommendation of .050 to .060 should be fine but this was on a CZ double gun and is less than my factory protrusion length. Ill need more pin in my situation. The original, dangerous firing pin is identified by its physical taper and silver/chromed color, while the newer version has a straight, non-tapered shape with a brown coating. If your CZ 712 has the old style firing pin, its advised that you call and schedule a send in for replacement. *If you have the newer style and are experiencing light strikes, you may need some "tuning" of your bolt body and locking lug. Here is the fix including a description and pictures. MUST GO TO ORIGINAL THREAD, SERVER PICTURE OVERLOAD/DENIAL...

As the first post of the new year 2015, for this long running thread, I have some additions id like to make... The following few posts will encompass my CZ 712 works in their entirety. *These were originally written for Michigan Gun Owners Forum and the original threads can be found there. As a contribution to Brian Enos Forum, id like to share my ideas here as well. Enjoy new content *1. http://www.migunowners.org/forum/showthread.php?315997-*PIC-WARNING*-lt-Review-gt-CZ-712-12-ga-Wood-Furniture-28-quot-3-quot-chamber-*PIC-WARNING* During my time off from work I decided to invest in a project gun. I enjoy shooting clays, as well as hobbysmithing my firearms, so I became interested in another sporting clays gun. I needed a gun with solid "bones", but requires some special attention to tune and adjust. Part of my reasons for buying a gun requiring attention, comes from my enjoyment from gunsmithing. After some research and homework, I found these needs met by CZ's model 712 Semi-Automatic shotgun! The 712 is a Czech designed, Turkish manufactured firearm... CONTINUED AT MY HOME FORUM (FOLLOW LINK ABOVE FOR FULL THREAD)

Absolutely. I did my 500 as a tester. Then right out of the box did my 930. Im not sure why they dont just do the front strap and hand guard from the factory.

Haha, im on to you now! I got your number... New Beretta anyone? Lol

Flukes happen. Its an anomaly obviously. You can smooth out the chamber on the lands and grooves of the rim seat area. I would recomend an old debit card with 600 wrapped and adjusted frequently. Anywhere a good smoothing could help facilitate seamless operation or reducing friction problem areas will most likely cure any hang-up due to binding stall. If I can define the issue, I will address it. My machines run... and they perform as intended without interference. Just look for high/low spot on flats, sharp edges on everything, smooth transitions, and well cared for mechanics. Oil should be at film levels not sticky and saturated. Use grease for sliding surfaces and oil for rotational friction. I use spray type white lithium grease, and hoppes new oil in the black container.

As a machinist, I can tell you that Ive never seen any machining chatter or run out or any other machining flaw like these lines. They sort of resemble stretched DNA strands. Some areas are thinner than others on individual lines. Almost as if the cause was during something moving down the barrel(hence test fire theory). Still waiting on the new parts but ive been more cautious with the loads I put through and the expected chamber pressures.

I really dont believe its a surface imperfection. The grooves are in 2 sets of 4 lines. It looks like it was fired at the factory and had something between the wad and barrel which gouged it pretty badly. When I run a cleaning rod section around the inside diameter of the barrel, it hangs and bumps over every line. Some of them are deeper than others. It must have been something in the barrel when fired that was dragged out by the wad, because 1 of the sets of four is deeper that the other set. I know that we don't see alot of split barrels now a days with the current metallurgy technology we have, but for a new gun, I expect more. One of my fellow Michiganders just posted a JM Pro barrel with the choke ripped right out, tearing the barrel open about 3 inches back. Looking at the torn barrel in the pictures resembles sintered metal, like lead slag looks like when broken in half. I guess Im gonna be more concerned than normal because they are the same gun model. Has anyone ever seen this phenomenon?

Heres my blur.

Depends on the shotgun... I have an o/u with a cast right stock. If I try to shoulder left side, the sight picture is way too far off. Ive seen left handed autoloaders with cast stocks. My auto is a right hand gun but I like to practice shooting from both shoulders (no right/left cast). Either way it shoots just fine from either hand. I use a more squared off stance which makes shooting either hand much more comfortable.

Thats my understanding also. Just wondered if one of the seasoned vets could chime in...

I use an old 12 ga bronze brush with a thin layer of 0000 steel wool wrapped around it. I chuck it in my drill and run it for a little while focusing on first section of the chamber where the brass will ride. Ive done this on 2 of my shotguns a pump and an autoloader. Not sure if it helps the extraction process but IMO it cant hurt. The chambers do come out smoother... Same size bore brush+ 0000 steel wool

I used the .250 drop spacer to fit into my 930. The spacers only adjust for rise and drop, with a little LOP extension (1/8 ") once i had that spacer in, my poi was spot on with bird and buck, using IC choke out to 25 yards. I was shooting clays propped in the snow... Good luck! PS you could always use the old telephone pole technique... Lol

I noticed that the TSS built shotguns seem to follow a no barrel clamp theme. What are the advantages or disadvantages to this. I have a hard time picturing a race gun being thrown into a barrel, on the extension, without a clamp to stabilize it from damage. Btw nice loading port work. I like the extra bling the camera gives the work