9mm reload problem

[Yoder]

I'm new to reloading and with my last batch of reloads I started having a bunch of misfires. Here's my setup:

Lee Turret press

9mm 115gr Precision Delta FMJ

4.6 gr of Titegroup

Remington small pistol primers

OAL 1.150

I'm shooting a Glock 17 with a 13lb Wolf spring and it looks like the slide is not fully returning, sometimes it would stop short 1/4 in. Other times it looked like it locked up but maybe just barely causing a misfire? I checked the primers on the misfires and they had a defined indent from the firing pin. I tried each one a second time and they all fired. If I tighted my grip more than normal the gun seemed to run fine. I've never had to do this any other time with this gun.

1. I reduced the amount of crimp on this batch, could this be causing the round to hang up when chambering? What diameter is Ok?

2. Could this be the primers aren't fully seated? Is this a problem you see with the Lee press?

3. Is this load hot enough to cycle the gun correctly? I read 4.8 gr is max load so I thought it should be good. Anyone have an idea what kind of velocity you should be getting with this load?

4. How do you choose an OAL for each load? I only found min and max so I measured some factory loads and went with 1.150.

Any ideas would be appreciated, Thanks

[The_Vigilante]

Take the barrel out of the Glock and check to see if the cartridges freely drop in the chamber. You may be loading them a little too long. Is the primer above or below the edge of the primer pocket? If above then you need to seat them slightly below the edge of the primer pocket. If your crimp is incorrect the test with the barrel will let you know. Need to buy a 9mm case gauge from either Dillon or L.E. Wilson. The fact that your primers did fire on the second attempt indicate they are not properly seated. You may need to buy a Undersize EGW 9mm resizing die to get the Glock bulge out of your cases.

Edited August 3, 2009 by The_Vigilante

[CocoBolo]

It is possble you are not seating the primers all the way. On the ones that didn'g go boom did you compare the firing pin dent to those that did go boom? If they are the same then the primers being seated is not the problem. On the first hit the firing pin seats the primer on the second hit it goes off.

4.6gr of TiteGroup is about right on a 115gr bullet I use 4.2gr on a 125gr bullet. 1.150 is factory length for a round nose bullet, flat nose bullets need to be shorter by a lot.

I'm not a Glock person but in a CZ or 1911 a 13lb spring will only ignite Federal Primers reliably, have not used Rem primers.

Always drop check your ammo either in the barrel or in a SAMMI gauge aka plunk checker.

[prreed10]

What mags are you using?

I put a 15lb spring in my G35. Combined it with reduced power reloads and 10 round mags. The mags were actually pushing up on the slide an slowing it down. Switched to 15 round mags and the problem disappeared.

[winter5470]

Here is my Data from a glock 19 (out of the box) with Montana gold bullets and titegroup. I am a newbie but have shoot 5,000 of my reloads so far. People comment on how long my bullets are but it works for me. I case gage every bullet that goes in my gun. If it does not go in and out of my dillon gauge easily I put it in a bag to be checked with my barrel when I pull it to be cleaned. If they pass my dillon case gauge they are for meets. If they pass by glock barrel test they are for range. All others get pitched.

***use the data below at your own risk ***

Bullet 115 CMJ Montana gold

Powder: 4.2 gr TG

Primer: federal

O.A.L. 1.155

Crimp 0.376

Chrono Data Comment 11024-1147 fps, avg 1119 fps, std dev. 7.29

I have switched to N320 now - I was worried about double charges with titegroup.

Kurt

[Miranda]

Hi Yoder,

I have the same type of press.

I am pertty darned sure you are not fully seating the primers.

The round being fired by the second strike is the main reason.

you may have other problems with the gun, those I am not able to guess.

If factory ammo works, then it is your ammo.

Setting primers with the lee press is a learned feeling.

I pressed as hard as I could on one piece to see what too much looks like

the primer did not explode... I think you will be safe.

seat the primers a little harder and they will go bang in your pistol....

assuming the pistol is ok.

miranda

[Yoder]

Thanks for all the great info. With all of your help I'm pretty sure I'm going to figure this out.

[Duane Thomas]

Do you happen to be running a stock striker spring along with that 13 pound recoil spring? If so, that may well be your problem right there. The recoil spring pushes the slide forward, the striker spring pushes it rearward. Reduce the power of the recoil spring without also going to a reduced power striker spring, you can begin getting failures to go fully into battery or sometimes even the act of pulling the trigger will cause the slide to move back out of battery.

[Yoder]

Do you happen to be running a stock striker spring along with that 13 pound recoil spring? If so, that may well be your problem right there. The recoil spring pushes the slide forward, the striker spring pushes it rearward. Reduce the power of the recoil spring without also going to a reduced power striker spring, you can begin getting failures to go fully into battery or sometimes even the act of pulling the trigger will cause the slide to move back out of battery.

Yes, the striker spring is stock. Here's what's really weird, my 11lb spring worked fine, but I noticed a few times it was slow to return fully into battery so I went with the 13lb spring and everything went to crap. I've read a lot about springs and it's really confusing. How can an 11lb spring be OK but a 13 not return the slide fully into battery? My original reason for changing springs was my gun would not cycle with some of the lighter reloads. I have a 15 and the stock spring also. I think I'm going to try the stock spring and if it's good move down to the 15lb spring and see what happens. I increased my powder so I think it will be ok.

[Miranda]

Hi Yoder,

you may want to search the Glock area of this forum

I recall reading some one talking about what the various springs do.

It did not stick in my mind as I don't have a glock.

miranda

[Duane Thomas]

The general recommendation is that if you're running a stock striker spring you should also run a stock recoil spring. Though honestly you would probably be okay with the 15. Anything below that in a recoil spring when running a stock striker spring is asking for trouble. At this point you have two choices, (1) either go to a heavier recoil spring, i.e. back to the stock spring or the 15 pounder, or (2) begin exploring the wonderful world of aftermarket Glock striker springs. I do not believe the problem here is your ammo.

[Yoder]

OK, I checked the gun with the 13lb spring and it wouldn't go into full battery with my finger on the trigger. I switched back to the stock spring. I still have some FF's and light off center primer strikes but only 1 out of around 70 or so. I also have to tighten up my grip slightly. I also noticed the gun barely ejects the shells, one actually flew straight up and landed in the chamber when the slide locked open. I tried factory 115gr loads and the gun is 100% reliable even deliberately limp wristing the gun.

I measured my reloads and they are exactly the same diameter, length and even the taper from the bottom of the case to the top is almost identical. I think to run a stock recoil spring I need to load to max 4.8 gr of titegroup with 115 FMJ and possibly shorten the OAL. Also really pay attention while seating the primers. Eventually I'll try messing with a lighter striker spring and recoil spring so I can shoot some lighter loads. I shot a match today with the gun with factory loads and it was 100%. Thanks for all the great advice!

[rhyrlik]

Sounds like you have lower lug clearance issue with the barrel.

[Yoder]

Sounds like you have lower lug clearance issue with the barrel.

What does that mean exactly?